IGUS RJ4JP-01-08 & Misumi linear shaft replacement for Y axis results
Last month I posted about bushing replacement recommendations:
http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/replacement-bearings-recommendation-t2085.html
I ended up ordering Misumi LMU-N8 linear bushings and RSFJ8-320 Low Temp. Black Chrome Plating linear shafts and while waiting decided to order some IGUS RJ4JP-01-08 bushings for $2 just to see how they compared. When I got everything I tested the Misumi bearings and IGUS bushings and the IGUS were MUCH quieter. In fact. the Misumi bearings didn't sound any quieter than the stock bearings based on sliding it back and forth manually with my hand. I did notice that if I squeezed on the IGUS bushing while sliding it was not as smooth though.
The sound difference was so much better with the IGUS that I decided to give it a try. I tightened the zip ties but not too tight, put everything back and noticed when printing that the IGUS bushings slid back and forth. Since I had everything connected already I decided to use superglue to glue the bushings to the zip ties. As you can see in the photo below, for each bushing I added 2 small drops on each side so the zip ties connected to the bushing.
When I printed again the bushings were solidly in place and I haven't noticed any problems for the past week. It is a LOT quieter! (The reason why I thought superglue would work was based on a past test where I added 1 tiny drop of Loctite superglue (ultragel control) to the thermistor cable that I cut, which I couldn't pull apart at all later on.)
Re: IGUS RJ4JP-01-08 & Misumi linear shaft replacement for Y axis results
I tightened the zip ties but not too tight, put everything back and noticed when printing that the IGUS bushings slid back and forth. Since I had everything connected already I decided to use superglue to glue the bushings to the zip ties. As you can see in the photo below, for each bushing I added 2 small drops on each side so the zip ties connected to the bushing.
Nice. Thanks for sharing. I noticed that two of my three Y-carriage IGUS bushing were sliding a bit in the zip tie too. I've been regretting tearing it apart again, risking some chance of needing a new XYZ calibration, and failing that again. I might try a couple of drops of superglue.
John
Re: IGUS RJ4JP-01-08 & Misumi linear shaft replacement for Y axis results
I tightened the zip ties but not too tight, put everything back and noticed when printing that the IGUS bushings slid back and forth.
Thinking about this some more, I was wondering if it is OK if the zip ties are a little loose, and the bearing slides a bit. My thought is that the belt is directly attached to the Y-carriage, and the goal is to have the Y-carriage move with as little friction as possible. The bearing can't move too far due to the cutout in the Y-carriage, and the fact that the zip-tie is just a little loose.
Thoughts?
Re: IGUS RJ4JP-01-08 & Misumi linear shaft replacement for Y axis results
I tightened the zip ties but not too tight, put everything back and noticed when printing that the IGUS bushings sli https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=12949995d back and forth.
Thinking about this some more, I was wondering if it is OK if the zip ties are a little loose, and the bearing slides a bit. My thought is that the belt is directly attached to the Y-carriage, and the goal is to have the Y-carriage move with as little friction as possible. The bearing can't move too far due to the cutout in the Y-carriage, and the fact that the zip-tie is just a little loose.
Thoughts?
Interesting, I didn't think of that. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in. For myself I wouldn't feel comfortable with it moving and like how it's working so far.
Re: IGUS RJ4JP-01-08 & Misumi linear shaft replacement for Y axis results
I don't know if the zip tie would be loose enough for this to happen but one thing I noticed during my build was when I first put the bearings in the slots on the bed frame and zipped them I had them to far to one end of the slot and this caused the bearing to "lift" on that end where the slot narrows so it wasn't perfectly parallel to the bed frame. I am guessing this could also cause noise in the bearing.
Just a thought as this was easy to have happen without noticing it unless you really looked for it.