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olivier.l6
(@olivier-l6)
Active Member
First steps

Hi,

Two days ago I received my Prusa i3 MK2S. After about 8h of assembly, I power on the printer. Everything is ok. But with the nice documentation, I think that this step could be long but possible.
More difficult is calibration. My english level is basic, then I need your help to be sure of all steps :
Calibration -> self test = ok 🙂

calibration -> calibrate XYZ
here we have a vido and explanation but I need to understand PINDA is a sensor but which type ? optical, magnetical ?
because for the first calibration we need to use a paper to secure the heatbed. Then I think that the page will make failed the 4 first calibration point but if there is no scratch on it, we can start again the calibration XYZ without the page. (Am I right ?)
It's what I did. then ok

after I load the filament : ok

Then I started the next step as indicated page 12 (6.3.9) First layer calibration V2 Calibration.gcode. And here it's more difficult.Then I have a nice zig zag but the PLA is thin then difficult to see if the result is too low or too high. How is it possible to verify that ? page 23 isn't really clear for my english. If the result is too low, we have to move the value increasing from 0 to -640 and if too high to move decreasing from -640 to 0

Then here I don't know if the result is ok then I decided to use the information I found in "befor you ask" :

3) Set your Live Adjust Z roughly correct. This lets the printer know the distance between your PINDA sensor and the nozzle tip. The printer can measure the distance from the PINDA to the bed so this lets the printer know where the nozzle is relative to the bed.
a) Set Live adjust Z = 0.00. (XYZ Cal does this).
b) Do a Calibrate Z. (Head must be clean of drips and lumps).
c) Do a Home. This leaves the head at Z=0.15mm. DON’T SKIP THIS STEP.
d) Use Setting -> Move Axis X and Y to get in the approx center of the print space. DON’T TOUCH Z.
e) Put a piece of printer paper under the head. Printer paper is approx 0.1mm
f) Wiggle the paper while adjusting "Live Adjust Z" (in settings) until the paper just starts to drag on the paper.
g) Back off a bit (50) on the “Live Adjust Z”. Backoff: If you started seeing the paper drag at -0.675mm, change it to -0.625mm.
NOTE: If your Live Adjust Z value is >1mm something is wrong. It should be approx the distance from the PINDA probe to the nozzle. Anything between 0.4mm and 1.0 should be fine. (Less than 0.4 means the PINDA probe might catch on some print that curles up a bit, greater than 1.0 means either you did something wrong, or are just barely in the PINDA’s detection range.)
NOTE: The above may not be correct. The Live-Z value might be different from the PINDA to nozzle spacing if the PINDA is particularly sensitive or particularly insensitive. If the value is out of bound, proceed, but with caution. Most users on the forum report numbers “near” the distance from PINDA to Nozzle, but some seem to have more sensitive PINDA sensors which can me moved significantly higher than 1mm, and the Live-Z value is drastically different.

Then I did it (my value is after this test -485)

Then I started next step : PRUSA logo
First try not really good. A line didn't stay in place then second try : a filament in a angle moves. The result isn't so bad but I decided to use the glu.
Result better.

Then next step is : update to new firmware (prusa3d_fw_3_0_12.zip)
I'm in 3.0.10
Then I had some hesitation. Is it a firmware also for MK2S
Too late now , i did it.
My question on this step is : Do we have to start all calibration after firmware upgrade ?

Here I am .... Thanks to have read my message and if you can answer my questions and confirm that the differents steps are ok.

Have a nice day

Publié : 19/08/2017 1:40 pm
JeffJordan
(@jeffjordan)
Membre Moderator
Re: First steps

1st: the pinda is an inductive sensor.
2nd: read this thread (at least the first 5 sites, but it wouldn't hurt if you read it until the last post...).
3rd: use the search functionality of this board. it'll deliver you plenty of information to get started.
4th: there is no difference in the firmware for the i3 mk2 and the i3 mk2s (I would recommend to stay with the 3.0.10 until the new version is out, because in 3.0.12 the storing of the esteps inside the eeprom is disabled).
5th: after a firmware change, no new calibration is required.

dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...

Publié : 19/08/2017 2:48 pm
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