Filament change effect on Z offset
I have been printing with the PLA that came with my print for the past 2 weeks. I wanted to play with some new colors so I order up a bunch of new filament. When it arrived I rushed to the printer and ripped off the old filament and put on my new shiny filament. In the process I drooped the filament spool and broke off my Y-axis endstop 😯 Oops.
Luckily I had ordered some orange Colorlabfabb XT. I was able to super glue the broken y-axis motor back together and get the printer running so I could print a new one (and an extra). When I started printing the XT it wouldn't stick to the bed. Z axis was to high the first layer was perfectly round not pushed down. I used live Z- axis adjust to offset Z enough to get the xt to stick and the first layer to look correct. I had to restart the print but it printed fine.
This morning I started a new print with PLA and when the skirt was printing it left a scratch on the bed, not bad but the nozzle was way to low. I rushed and razed the z- offset with live adjust. By the time the skirt was done I had a nice looking first layer. So do I need to run the v2 calibration after every filament change? If so i need to adjust the gcode for different temperatures. Is this normal? Would different filament types change the force necessary to get a proper first layer?
Re: Filament change effect on Z offset
curious, my y-axis endstop broke off today as well.
but to be honest, i don't know why that happened in detail.
usually the printer is in "silent mode", but after fixing some issues with a clogged nozzle (and assembling a new one), i tried to do the xyz calibration in "normal mode".
on all the 2D axis (X/Y) the printer tried to trigger the endstops but failed to do so with loud rattling, so i had a closer look at it.
ok, the x-axis endstop couldn't be reached, because the ziptie of the hotend cable interfered with the frame, which could simply be fixed by using a new ziptie the other way around.
but the y-axis endstop wouldn't work because it broke off the y-motor holder 😥 .
so actually i'm gluing the broken part back to the y-motor holder, using UHU PLAST Spezial (a glue especially for polystyrol type plastics like ABS).
because this glue isn't as fast as super glue, i've to wait until tomorrow afternoon to check if the printer works again.
if so, the first thing i'm going to print is a new y-motor holder (in PETG instead of ABS).
by the way, Joe Prusa said in a video that the motors are not strong enough to damage any parts of the printer....
greetz
jeff
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...