Printing odd gaps  

RE: Printing odd gaps

Under-extrusion. Verify your flow ratios haven't changed.  You also might try printing some of the sample gcodes to verify is isn't a simple settings error.

RE: Printing odd gaps

Thanks. I didn't think about preset gcode. I'll try that as soon as I can.

RE: Printing odd gaps

Here's Marvin ...

Marvin

RE: Printing odd gaps

I have the originals still thanks. 

RE: Printing odd gaps

I finally had a little time to run one of the gcode files from Prusa. I moved my Z adjust up two steps partly through the print because I could see through the initial layer. Tonight I will try adjusting it more and making sure that my lead screws are right because I recently ran out of filament and had to remove them. If these don't correct the problem are there any other suggestions?

RE: Printing odd gaps

Live-Z generally is adjust for layer 1.  It really doesn't do anything for upper layer.  

The Batman is very much under-extruded.   You might want to verify the Bondtech idler tension is tight enough, and that the filament spool is free to rotate (no drag when the extruder is pulling filament).  And what temp was the Batman printed at? 

ps: lead screws are the long screws coming out of the Z-Axis motors.  The gears that drive the filament down into the extruder are often referred to as Bondtech gears.  The gear on the motor shaft is the driven gear, the one on door is the idler.

RE: Printing odd gaps

• I've been working on slowly tightening the door screws (were these the bondtech? I was having a hard time mentally picturing which were which in your explanation.) The batman prints at 210 which is WAY hotter than necessary for my silver Hatchbox. It basically pours out at that temperature. With  the last spool I was printing with stringing at 185. It may also just be less than adequate pla as well. The bag wasn't sealed as well as they normally are. No enclosure but there isn't a draft and my house stays at a reasonable temperature (70ish F).

RE: Printing odd gaps

This is a great deal better.

RE: Printing odd gaps

That last print looks very good.  I'd be quite happy with it.  

Ooze is something we all fight; it's part of the "Dang, wish there were an easy fix!" wish list.  But we all deal with it in one way or another.  Ooze before a print is the most difficult: it will leave "gnats" on the bed during mesh level, strings across the bed with moves that get incorporated into the print, etc.  So many of us simply don't heat the nozzle until it is needed.  We preheat to a low temp, do all the homing and leveling, then heat to print temps just before the purge. 

Ooze during print is dealt with as needed, sometime lower temps work well, sometimes higher temps work well, sometimes a change in retraction and wipe and helpful, and sometimes none of the above help at all: there are some plastics that have too high a surface tension and just string no matter what you do.

The Bondtech tension screw is the one on the left side of the extruder that has a spring, and essentially holds the idler door closed and the filament drive gears held together under spring tension.  This screw is critical to master.  Too little and you get skipping, too much and you get skipping.  But there is a Goldilocks zone that is "just right" for good prints.  It can change by filament, like TPU needs almost no tension, PLA needs a bunch. ABS somewhere in the middle. 

RE: Printing odd gaps

Yeah... I stayed stock. Mine is black but still. In 2 years I have only had to replace two things; the pfte tube and my heatbed heater. So overall I Love this machine. Thanks so much for the help. It has been so long since I've had to adjust anything I couldn't think what the problem might be. Keeps you learning I guess.