Re: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
I just wanted to put a good word for the CS Hyde company. I needed a PEI sheet for a different 3D printer, my i3 MK2 PEI is still in a fine shape. I worked with Arik Barrera to get the right PEI sheet for that printer. You can choose the thickness of the PEI, adhesive, and specify if you want the adhesive applied to the matte or gloss side. They'll cut the PEI to size. I ordered the PEI sheet yesterday and was ready per my specs on the same day. I picked it up from their office earlier today. It's nice to be only about 15 minutes away 🙂
Based on my experience I'd say try the company, they are nice people to work with.
BTW, I am not affiliated with CS Hyde and it was the 1st time I ordered anything from them in case you wonder.
Re: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
While I know its a matter of preference, I will also add not to be afraid to go with a thicker PEI sheet. The original PEI is about 7 mills, but I went with 31 mils (0.8mm) and think it was a good choice. Its thin enough to still cut easily with an X-acto knife, and thin enough not to mess up the calibration. (Although you may need to very slightly lower the sensor.) I like it because it gives you a bit more stability when removing stuck parts.
Mineral Spirits are cheaper and faster than Limonene for removing adhesive for PEI
When I saw the procedure for using limonene to remove the adhesive residue when replacing the PEI sheet, I realized it's pretty much how I use mineral spirits to remove recalcitrant stickers and masking papers. Soak it, remove most of it, repeat until clean. Mineral spirits is about the mildest solvent you can get. It's safe to use with most plastics but does a good job on pressure sensitive adhesives. It's also significantly cheaper than limonene, and unlike limonene, which you pretty much have to buy online, you can buy mineral spirits at any hardware store.
While the limonene method says to let the solvent soak for an hour each time, my experience with mineral spirits told me that 15 min would be sufficient, and it was. I used a nylon spatula to scrape up the film, and then a foodservice wiper soaked in the solvent to scrub off what residue remained. One finel wipe with a clean paper towel and after the solvent residue evaporated it was as clean as I could hope it to be.
Though you have to make sure there is sufficient ventilation (as you do with limonene), mineral spirits are relatively safe. It has a high flash point and the containers aren't even labled flammable, though it will burn if you ignite it.
So mineral spirits are cheaper and faster than using limonene.
Re: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
We are using the cshyde sheets that are the same size as the PRUSA, but are 5 mils thick, one with the glossy side up. It is not as sticky for PLA and PET which is what we print. I will have to try the mineral spirits, we have been using 3M Adhesive remover from an auto body supply place. The 3M product will not attach the paint but takes a number of applications to remove all the old adhesive.
Not the glossy side gives the bottom of the print a super slick finish.
Re: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
Is there an alternative to Limonene? It is expensive the only place I can find it charges almost 90 EUR for 0,5l.
Use 3M Adhesive Remover, should be able to get it at lowes or home depot.
Re: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
We are using the cshyde sheets that are the same size as the PRUSA, but are 5 mils thick, one with the glossy side up. It is not as sticky for PLA and PET which is what we print.
Just as an FYI, CS Hyde will apply the glue either side of the PEI film. Just ask them if you want the glue on the glossy side.
Re: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
If you're in th US, GooGone is actually primarily d-limonene plus additional petroleum-based solvents, is readily available, and works very well. I found it right at my usual supermarket in a sprayer. Just don't spray it. Use the paper towel method right on the printer taking care to protect the rest of the printer with food wrap and paper towels.
Also I bought the CS Hyde Ultem, and the thickness is wrong. They put the glue on the matte side, so you end up with a very shiny sheet. They do not have a matching thickness. I would recommend the 10 mil, and you will have to recalibrate for the extra thickness. The original Prusa is 7 mil (175 micrometers).
RE: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
I have a few marks on my bed film that leave marks on the finished print. McMaster Carr sells PEI film. What thickness do I need and what type of adhesive should I use to put it on the bed?
Hey buddy, i think you can try gorilla glue for your bed as this glue is water resistant. It comes in 5.75 ounce bottle. The glue contained in the bottle will not foam and it is easy to use the glue from the bottle. Moreover, the strong outer material of the glue bottle makes it perfect to be used for long.
It is available in packs of 1, 2 or 3 and you can get the one of your choice as required. To bind wood, metal, ceramic, glass and the like materials, this bottle is easy to apply the glue without sticking it to your fingers.
Or you can go for Titebond, Starbond companies glue as they are best for wood.
If you want more option then you can check this article for more info.
https://theedgecutter.com/best-wood-glue-for-woodworking/
I generally use gorilla clear for my furniture.
Best regards
RE: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
If you want more option then you can check this article for more info.
RE: ULTEM PEI bed film replacement
I know this thread is rather old, but I found this blog helpful in understanding different types of plastics: https://www.polymerfilms.com/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ultem-film/ - hopefully it's helpful for anyone coming across this post in the future!