ASA not sticking to bed
I'm having a real problem printing with ASA (Matterhacker Build). No matter what I seem to do the print always comes off the bed and fails the print. I've tried glue stick and Magigoo. I've tried printing on a raft. The raft stayed down well, but the part separated from the raft. Only the thin outer parts lift up, but the middle still stays secure. Does anyone have any idea how I can print this without having the entire bottom be one solid chunk?
Best Answer by TeamD3dp:
Those tall, near vertical walls, combined with very little bed contact would be hard to keep flat even with PETG due to the warping forces (and PETG is one of the easier filaments to keep down). ASA, like ABS, is known to have far stronger shrinkage, and therefore stronger warping forces as layers build up.
Full disclosure...Though I own a roll of ASA, I haven't tried printing it yet. I have printed large flat models that were only ~10-15mm tall that cover most if the build plate that warped on my open Mk4S (before I converted it to a Core One) with PETG on the smooth plate, so I understand the power of warping forces as the layer heights increase. I would honestly never try to print your example model in ASA without a warm enclosure at minimum, AND (not or) adding a big brim to increase contact area with the build plate, AND the use of adhesive. With my lack of specific material experience, I cannot say whether this design (as is) would be printable in ASA at all without a heated chamber.
Perhaps if you altered the design to add some patterned holes through the vertical walls to remove full length extrusions on each layer to break up the warping tension across each side. I've incorporated slots or other tension breaks in parts before to good result. If there is no continuous extrusion, there can be no built up forces trying to pull up the ends.
-J
RE: ASA not sticking to bed
For what it's worth, I do not have an enclosure, but I do print in a closet. While not heated, it is free from drafts and rapid temperature changes.
RE:
Those tall, near vertical walls, combined with very little bed contact would be hard to keep flat even with PETG due to the warping forces (and PETG is one of the easier filaments to keep down). ASA, like ABS, is known to have far stronger shrinkage, and therefore stronger warping forces as layers build up.
Full disclosure...Though I own a roll of ASA, I haven't tried printing it yet. I have printed large flat models that were only ~10-15mm tall that cover most if the build plate that warped on my open Mk4S (before I converted it to a Core One) with PETG on the smooth plate, so I understand the power of warping forces as the layer heights increase. I would honestly never try to print your example model in ASA without a warm enclosure at minimum, AND (not or) adding a big brim to increase contact area with the build plate, AND the use of adhesive. With my lack of specific material experience, I cannot say whether this design (as is) would be printable in ASA at all without a heated chamber.
Perhaps if you altered the design to add some patterned holes through the vertical walls to remove full length extrusions on each layer to break up the warping tension across each side. I've incorporated slots or other tension breaks in parts before to good result. If there is no continuous extrusion, there can be no built up forces trying to pull up the ends.
-J
RE: ASA not sticking to bed
Thank you for your response. I had not thought of breaking up the first couple layers to minimize warping. Instead I went the other way and made the entire bottom one solid mass. Printing that seemed to maximize adhesion with the bed and worked ok. I'll try to cut slots in the first several layers and see if that helps with the original design to break up warping.
RE: ASA not sticking to bed
Thank you for your response. I had not thought of breaking up the first couple layers to minimize warping. Instead I went the other way and made the entire bottom one solid mass. Printing that seemed to maximize adhesion with the bed and worked ok. I'll try to cut slots in the first several layers and see if that helps with the original design to break up warping.
It's not just the first couple of layers but anywhere you have long continuous straight extrusions will be applying force. If you add that tension up high it can still create an upward pulling force on the layers below.
-J