How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?  

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These prints were made yesterday on an MK3S+ with the Revo Six and the MK4, Prusament PETG Orange and Jet Black, both 0.4 nozzle, on the textured sheets that came with the respective printer, which makes the sheet on the MK3S+ about three years old.

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

Which part is from which printer?

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

If you have to ask ... 😉

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

I still don't get it... call me stupid...

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

I just meant to say: If you have to ask, the difference cannot be that big. But I will say that the better one is from the MK4. 🙂

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

^^ That assumption wasn't a given, so there was no way of knowing. From everything I have seen so far however, the Mk4 bed levelling is absolutely amazing. I think that is also the main thing that is visible there (as long as you don't fool us and the worse bottom layer is the Mk4). This doesn't say much about the nozzle however, but like I said more about the bed levelling.

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

I also wanted to know.I do see differences, and the one on top is the one I like the most, but I don't know if it belongs to the MK4 or the MK3s

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No, the bottom layer of the one from the MK4 is certainly more even than the other one. And yes, that is the one on top. 🙂

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Posted by: @walter-layher

These prints were made yesterday on an MK3S+ with the Revo Six and the MK4, Prusament PETG Orange and Jet Black, both 0.4 nozzle, on the textured sheets that came with the respective printer, which makes the sheet on the MK3S+ about three years old.

Which is which? Both are not good. The top one has the two fist-like shapes kind-of invisible and the bottom one has them visible in red. Why?

However, the top one has sharper and nicer looking rectangular blocks, outline along the edge and letters. There are also no small thin lines surrounding the letters.

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

Any 3D shapes such as benchy for comparison? Does MK4 still make prints with benchy hull line?

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There is this thing (a particle, or is it) called light, it goes at an angle ... And then not all things are lit evenly. smh

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

Benchy? Never printed one in three years. Not gonna start now. 🙂

Posted by: @prusanewuser

Any 3D shapes such as benchy for comparison? Does MK4 still make prints with benchy hull line?

RE: How is the nozzle of the MK4 compared with E3D Nozzle X and Revo 6?

So... obviously the top one is the MK4, and the bottom is MK3. You can tell because the first layer on the bottom shows a lot more lines, and is not homogeneous, like the top... which tells me the Z offset needs adjusted a little... which obviously the MK4 doesn't do.

This may be the reason why the letters are a little more "blown out" than the MK4, but it could also be that the nozzle is older and worn out. Either way, I'd hazard to guess the actual nozzle will contribute less to any differences, as in the end the plastic shoots out a brass 0.4mm hole (all other things being equal). This blowing out of the letters will be the same reason the "little fist shape things" are different between the two. Which one is correct is not comparable to each other, but which one more closely matches the design.

Where the new nozzle and hotend will help (I think) is in reliability. An all metal tube, with no PTFE will make it much harder tip shape to go bad, and more consistent thermal break (I think).

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The nozzle on the MK3 is from a Revo Six and has only a few hours on it. I could bring the z down a bit, I just did one or two first layer recalibrations of my sheets after installing the Revo Six to get a tight square on the test from the printer. The difference between the "fist shaped things" are because of the shadow on the top one. I lit the parts with the lamp at about 45 degrees, to enhance the surface details. So the grooves on the top one are not lit to the bottom and the color there is not visible. I thought that was clear from the position of the light reflections.

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I don't know how the first layer is intended to look like with this print but if there were any amount of elephant foot on the Mk4, this should be an easy fix in the slicer settings with adjusting elephant foot correction.