Reprint all parts with ABS
hello everyone,
i would like to print my parts printed with the mk3s with the mk4 in a different colour and have thought about using abs.
is there anyone here who has printed the whole printer from abs? or is there anything that speaks absolutely against it?
thanks for feedback
RE: Reprint all parts with ABS
Nothing speaks against it in principle, if you can control warping. I much prefer ASA over ABS as I found it much easier to work with. I haven't redone the parts in ABS/ASA myself but I have done it with PC-CF.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Reprint all parts with ABS
The critical thing with ABS and ASA is on one side warping but on the other also layer adhesion. If you have no enclosure, layer adhesion can be quite poor.
For modified ABS I can recommend TitanX, it is not that cheap (if you buy the recycled one the prices are more reasonable) but it has very little warping and comparably good layer adhesion, for an ABS at least. Probably one of the easiest to print ABS+ blends and it is still pretty good in terms of creep etc. I have printed 2 Vorons with that filament and so far they work both well.
Mk3s MMU2s, Voron 0.1, Voron 2.4
RE: Reprint all parts with ABS
Since I went that way with the parts for my MK4-kit, let me chime in a little 🙂
I was using both ABS and ASA by Filamentum with the profiles provided by prusaslicer on my old Mk3S+. As mentioned above an enclosure of some sort is a must. You might fight low bed adhesion with a decent brim and/or some kind of printing adhesive like 3DLAC or Magigoo, but on the taler parts almost certainly poor layer bonding or even layer separation will get you due to thermal stress within the parts 🙄
As a side note I had to beef up the parts too, since I had some parts cracking using the prusa recomendations (meant for PETG...). In the end I settled with the printing recomendations for the Voron builds, using 40% adaptive cubic infill, 4 perimeters and 5 top/bottom layers. For the motor mounts I used 6 perimeters as well as 6 bottom/top layers.
You might want to check your printer for dimensional accuracy too, using some decent calibration prints like the ones here or here only to mention a few, to avoid fighting tolerances.
In the end it was quite a learning curve, but the results are just as rewarding 🙂