Sewing 3D parts  

RE: Sewing 3D parts

Are you asking which material is easier to pierce with a needle, or are you printing the thread holes?  I would imagine PETG or ASA would hold up pretty well outside and be flexible enough for a tent wall if printed thin......but I sure wouldn't want to try stitching thru it.  You could even print divots instead of holes and use a small drill bit to open them.

My only thought on this would be the wind causing the wall to ripple and blow...and possibly tearing to the materials flexing against each other.  Interesting idea tho.....please post updates!!

RE: Sewing 3D parts

"Printing" the holes in the (edge of?) the window would be the way to go. Are you going to attach a separate piece of (transparent?) material similar to the PETG Todd has been using for the face shields for the "see-thru" portion of the window? I don't know of any 3D printing filament or process that will produce a transparent sheet. If "transparency" is unnecessary, i.e., you just want to provide daylight illumination into the interior, you COULD print a thin sheet of white or natural PLA, but that would be an incredibly inefficient use of time to do that, when all sorts of translucent material are readily available, and can be quickly laser cut to fit the 3D printed frame. But having said that, just laser cut the (transparent or translucent) sheet, WITH the holes and simply "lace" (not sew) it into the tent wall with sail-making lacing tools and an appropriate thread (or fishing line). 3D printing filament would decidedly NOT be the material to use for this. IF the "penetration" of the wall needs to be water-tight, i.e., so that rain does not enter, you would either have to include an elastomeric gasket, or seal the outside interface with an RTV caulk or other flexible sealant. (A sketch would be helpful.)

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@nilok

The idea is to stitch through it so not printing with holes. I have the machine that is up to the job. It will go through 20mm of leather.

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@reddawg

Thanks for the input. The idea is for an air vent but the concept of a window or light pane is interesting. Im thinking of a slatted air vent with a rain cover that you can stitch to a canvas boat cover. So i could print a recessed line for the stitching to sit in. There is no great forces on it except movement from the wind and exposure to uv.

RE: Sewing 3D parts

I think you need something flexible or you risk cracking. 

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@think42

Sorry, I missed the word "ventilation" in the O/P, and homed-in on "window", so took it too literally. (Also, I  was apparently writing in a semi-conscious state and thought I was in a different forum where the reference to "Todd" makes sense.) That noted, are you saying that you need ventilation in addition to what might be expected to pass through "canvas"? It's been a L O N G time since I  bivwaced in an army tent, but I vaguely recall there being "patches" of a more open-weave material used for ventilation, more of a "filter" (to thwart insects) than open louvers, not that you need that functionality. I would imagine there is a polyester mesh material that could be "sewn" directly over holes created in the cover to allow more-or-less free passage of air, without the need for other "framing" devices.  I'll look for a reference for something like that.

RE: Sewing 3D parts

This should work:

https://www.joann.com/mesh-white/1948439.html

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@reddawg

Thanks for the input and this would be an excellent solution, but I want to be able to create some very specific outward facing, styled vent exterior that will have a very simple mesh or hole to the other side.

needs to look great for a simple purpose

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@think42

You can always use a NinjaFlex (or similar) filament, maybe nylon, although you shouls probably still print the edge holes and attach it by lacing, rather than piercing with a sewing needle will create holes that may eventually break out because of stress fracturing. I would carefully review any candidate filament for its performance under UV illumination and temperature swings.

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@think42

You can always use a NinjaFlex (or similar) filament, maybe nylon, although you should probably still print the edge holes and attach it by lacing, rather than piercing with a sewing needle which will create holes that may eventually break out because of stress fracturing. I would carefully review any candidate filament for its performance under UV illumination and temperature swings.

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@reddawg

I’ve heard of ninjaflex, but not used it yet. Maybe time to get some samples. Definitely concerned about how the filament will react to a sewing needle. I guess one test is better than a thousand theories.

RE: Sewing 3D parts

Printing NinjaFlex (or any really flexible filament) can be tricky. In essence, there has to be the smallest gap possible between the "output" side of the extruder Bondtech gears and the entrance to the melting chamber. If the filament is not "constrained" in this region, it will tend to bulge out laterally through this gap, not only ruining the print but will be a RPITA to remove, even when you are monitoring the process and catch it early. If you are not around for an hour or so, you will not be happy when you return. Typically, the filament sensor will not detect anything amiss, and so will not shut the process down. 

It is also somewhat printer dependent. My first Prusa was an MK3, so I have no experience with earlier models, but when I was unable to successfully print flex filaments because of the performance just described, I looked critically at the geometry of the filament path and recognized immediately what was happening. I came up with an insert for the extruder that I uploaded to Thingiverse ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3361565 ) which you may find useful if you have an MK3. I have received, but not yet installed the MK3S upgrade kit for this printer, which I believe may obviate the need for this work-around. Likewise, I have not yet tried printing any flex filaments with either of my new Minis, but my sense is that many of the adjustments including bed levelling, first layer Z-axis height and the extruder idler pressure will need to be dialed in within very narrow ranges to achieve successful prints. The bowden tube extruder design sometimes has significant problems with even semi-rigid filaments; putting a flexible filament in a bowden tube is rather like trying to push a chain: the results are likely to be unpredictable.

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@reddawg

I’ve seen YouTube videos of the problem you are describing and understand the problem with the ‘gap’ that can let it all unravel. I have a Mk3s so we are in the same ball park. Thanks for the link to the part, will take a look after work.

Time for some experimentation 

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@think42

I think the MK3S extruder has a different geometry that my insert will not fit, and may have the path constraint "built in".

RE: Sewing 3D parts

I saw someone printed direct onto fabric with enough squish it forced the molten plastic into the material, so you could in theory create a square of edging cloth and print your design (TPU stretches to 500% elongation without problems) so it overlaps the fabric causing it to melt into the fabric, then when complete, sew the fabric as normal to the rest of the tent or whatever, using a normal sewing machine. 

RE: Sewing 3D parts

@chocki

Hi Choki, thanks for your input. An interesting idea for sure, I’ll be trying that as soon as some new filament turns up... whenever that may be...

appreciate you input. 

RE: Sewing 3D parts

You would need to pull the material taught somehow (Magnets?) and design your drawing to lift slightly where the material is to allow the nozzle to clear it, just!, this way the middle would still print onto the bed and hopefully clear the material when it comes to print this part.

It's one of these ideas where you will have to experiment to get right.