Review: Prusament PC Blend  

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

Looks like spam to me.  Reported.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

That is spam.  

CoPa Settings

Hi,

sorry, I have to come back to the old topic, but maybe you can help me with CoPa. I already tried very very many settings to print this material but I always have very strong stringing, do you have a working profile for the Mk3S+?

I have dried the filament for 40h at 70°C.

It would be super nice if you could share your settings.

Tonitom

CoPA

Stringing is often due to a less than ideal print temperature and / or hydration of the filament.  

Lower expectations

Ok, thx.

Maybe I expect too much. With 255°C and an exorbitantly high retraction of 6mm, there is at least visually a good result.

CoPA like PC Blend is challeging to print,

CoPA like PC Blend is challeging to print.  With 8 printers (MK3S of various flavors) that I often print it, I have multiple different print settings to get good results with the same filament.  

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

I've been printing Natural PC Blend on an MK3s+.   I've had very good results using the stock PC Blend settings in Prusa Slicer with a stock brass nozzle printing on the new Satin Sheet.  I carefully calibrated the first layer for the Satin Sheet.  Using 275 nozzle; 110 bed.  I do print in an enclosure with a recirculating fan (no outside air) and an activated carbon filter for odor.  Not sure the odor filter is needed but won't hurt.  I had to use a brim to avoid warping on a piece about 10mm X 15mmX 60mm.  Sticks very well with the brim in place, the piece will pop right off the sheet if allowed to cool, or when still warm (not hot) a bend of the plate and it pops off.  Very happy with the filament printing on the satin sheet. 

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

RE:  the post above.  Not using any glue or additive to the plate.  Just clean with 99% IPA when the plate is cool. Slight ghosting of the part on the plate, but still great adhesion with brim; easy removal; great

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

Anyone tried PC CF Blend? I was browsing the website and noticed I had stuff forgotten in my cart, and I had a bunch of spools I wanted to buy but the PC CF Blend was out of stock.... until a few seconds after i loaded into the cart and it was there available, so I bought a spool.

I'm having a ton of difficulty getting it into the extruder, I have an MMU2 Unit, and its not able to push the darned thing.

Also when did tolerancing in Spools change? My box says its guaranteeing +/- 0.02mm, but it clearly at +/- 0.038mm.

I've been trying to print the Lucky 13 Armament parts with PC CF in hopes it gets stronger because I keep snapping them with my gorilla hands, and for some reason the printer just QUIT printing half way into the print, I think its unable to get the darned thing through the PTFE Tubing.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

That is the general Prusament box. It is awkward that PC-FT does not comply with that general specification. But the Online store clearly states less than +/- 0.04. I would assume with the CF, keeping the dimensions is harder than without.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

Im going to try this weekend dialing it down and figuring out why my MMU2 unit is having trouble with it, I want to get my Lucky 13 skeleton in PC CF.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

I have no experience with PC-CF but my MMU2 has no problems loading regular Prusament PC-Blend. I do see on my Voron where the Mini-Afterburner extruder has a weaker extruder motor than the Prusa Mk3s, which isn't usually any problem, that I have to print on the higher side of the range because of the resistance otherwise. I would assume CF is making things worse in this regard. Maybe to the the extend that the MMU get's a bit picky during loading. If that's the case, for single material print loadings, there is always the option to fool the MMU and effectively load manually, if you don't want to disable the MMU temporarily.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

Ive tried this, but my printer started saying the file was formatted for another printer.

At first I thought this was on me, I went back to my slicer and no, the slicer was set up for the i3 Mk3S+ with MMUS2 Unit (Single) mode. It would just get the filament and perpetually try loading unloading it, it'd get into the extruder and the extruder would just spit it out because the MMUS2 Unit starts pulling it back for some reason. Maybe I need to disassemble it and see whats going on.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

I am baing an issue with jamming with 2 of my MK3S after using PC blend.  I just cannot get it all cleared out.  

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

Posted by: @cwbullet

I am baing an issue with jamming with 2 of my MK3S after using PC blend.  I just cannot get it all cleared out.  

Where does it appear to be sticking?

I know I've mentioned that once I did a PC Blend print as the last print of the day and left the PC Blend filament in the machine cold (room temperature) overnight.

I had a devil of a time getting it out!  I had to heat the nozzle way up, like 285 or so IIRC, wait for quite a while to let the heat work its way up a bit, and then force it out with a piece of ABS ( IIRC) manually pushing it through.

I may have needled the nozzle from below as well, but I don't recall, and that (needling) is one of the first things I will do on a clog.

Since then, I've gotten into the habit of unloading higher temp filaments immediately and 'flushing' with PLA rather than letting it cool overnight.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

It is a partial jam after switching to PETG from PC Blend.  I switched back and I still have jams.  It is wierd.  It is almost entirely in the nozzle.  

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

Posted by: @cwbullet

It is a partial jam after switching to PETG from PC Blend.  I switched back and I still have jams.  It is wierd.  It is almost entirely in the nozzle.  

I recently had a similar issue in my 'other' printer, an Ultimaker S5.

I had done a run of prints using an ABS filament, switched to PLA, and although the print started normally (or appeared to) it started underextruding and grinding the filament in the feeder.  I went through their semi-automated hot-and-cold-pull procedure, which did remove some dark gunk, but when I re-ran the print it would not flow at normal volume.

I ended up disassembling the AA hot end and using a drill bit to remove a mixture of jammed filament and scorched crud out of the top end of the nozzle.  I then heated the hot end up (it is easy to heat the Ultimaker hot ends on the bench), gave it a good needling from below, and manually fed filament in to be sure the flow was good.

I then pulled the hot end apart again and chased out the nozzle again with the drill bit to be sure it was clean.

It's worked fine ever since.

I figure what was happening was that after it printed a while, a piece of the scorched crud would work its way into the nozzle opening and partly clog it.  The needling and hot/cold pull would stop it for a while, but the pulls would not get all of it out.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

I will try this again this week.  I might need to be more thorough.  

Posted by: @jsw

Posted by: @cwbullet

It is a partial jam after switching to PETG from PC Blend.  I switched back and I still have jams.  It is wierd.  It is almost entirely in the nozzle.  

I recently had a similar issue in my 'other' printer, an Ultimaker S5.

I had done a run of prints using an ABS filament, switched to PLA, and although the print started normally (or appeared to) it started underextruding and grinding the filament in the feeder.  I went through their semi-automated hot-and-cold-pull procedure, which did remove some dark gunk, but when I re-ran the print it would not flow at normal volume.

I ended up disassembling the AA hot end and using a drill bit to remove a mixture of jammed filament and scorched crud out of the top end of the nozzle.  I then heated the hot end up (it is easy to heat the Ultimaker hot ends on the bench), gave it a good needling from below, and manually fed filament in to be sure the flow was good.

I then pulled the hot end apart again and chased out the nozzle again with the drill bit to be sure it was clean.

It's worked fine ever since.

I figure what was happening was that after it printed a while, a piece of the scorched crud would work its way into the nozzle opening and partly clog it.  The needling and hot/cold pull would stop it for a while, but the pulls would not get all of it out.

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

Posted by: @cwbullet

@obeliks

Print extruder parts.  Start with fan shrouds.  This stuff is great.  Never print without glue stick.  Consider a dedicated print sheet.  

Where do I find these parts, and what parts should be printed?

RE: Review: Prusament PC Blend

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/printable-parts-for-original-prusa_1824

https://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487

choose the set which matches your prusa printer model

regards Joan