Questions about Steel Sheets
I've been using one steel sheet (the smooth PEI steel sheet that came with my MK3S+) for printing. Lately I've had some issues where it's getting dented or getting dings in it. One issue has been when I first printed PETG on it and as I pulled it off, it left small spots on the surface where pulling it off the sheet also pulled and stretched the surface a bit. So I switched to the other side and I'm using that for now. I have more sheets on the way, including PIE steel sheets and textured sheets. And I have a number of questions about them now.
- I've heard PETG comes off the textured sheets far easier. I'm interested in peoples' experiences with this.
- I remember doing calibrations and having to save them specifically for my sheet. If I switch to another sheet of the same type, is there enough difference to require recalibrating? And how about if I'm switching between smooth PEI steel and the textured steel, is that close enough I don't need to calibrate separately for that sheet?
- My printer is in our barn, so I often am sending prints to it from my study, in our house. Is specifying the settings to match the different sheets something I can do in PrusaSlicer or OctoPrint so I can make sure the printer is set for the sheet in it from a distance - without being right there to edit settings?
- About what kind of lifetime are people finding these steel sheets (smooth PEI and textured) tend to have a predictable lifetime before they need to be replaced?
- Overall, for whatever filaments you use, what are your favorite and most effective ways to get prints (of any filaments) off the sheet?
- Is there a comparison somewhere that I can use to see what the advantages of the different kinds of sheets are?
RE: Questions about Steel Sheets
1.Yes petg comes off far easier. PLA may have trouble adhering, ymmv.
2. yes you will need to calibrate for each sheet. Current firmware's (at least on the Mk3 series printers) allow you to save and store several 'slots'
3. No you cant as far as I'm aware. Swapping a sheet is a manual affair and so is selecting which slot it uses. But seeing as you have to be there to fit a sheet then changing the slot via the lcd should make zero difference.
4. I'm still using the second side of my original smooth pei sheet. Like you I ripped off a small spot using petg (before I learned the hard way) about using an adhesion blocker with smooth pei and petg. That's over 5 years now. I have a spare but have not needed to use it.
5. Just leave to cool down and flex. That's it. The parts pop off. The only caveat to that is single layer parts (and supports). Those just flex with the sheet usually so can be harder to remove. I just printed a few of these https://www.printables.com/model/277302-thin-layers-scraper-tinyergonomic which are great ways to use left over filament and work really well.
6. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195
RE: Questions about Steel Sheets
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804
Any advice on cleaning the 3 different steel sheets?
I’m having a problem with Prusa PLA Silk Filaments leaving a film on my Smooth Sheet and you can sometimes see it on the bottom of other prints. Whats the best way to clean that?
RE: Questions about Steel Sheets
Hello.
For PTEG use structured steel sheet (or satin sheet) and no problem. Not smoth PEI where attachement is hard so hard.
RE: Questions about Steel Sheets
One other point that didn't occur to me earlier:
Since the print sheets from Prusa are 2 sided, can I use the same calibration for the back and front, or will there be differences on the sides that are big enough I need to calibrate separately for the back and front of a single sheet?
Most sheets are ok to flip on the same calibration, damaged sheets may require two calibrations but can still be worth keeping for specific uses.
Cheerio,