Prusa Original Enclosure causing printing issues with my MK3S+
Hi
I recently received my Prusa Original Enclosure and moved my MK3S+ into it. However, I have been having issues with my prints, both PLA as well as PETG. The filament gets stuck in the extruder (in the heatbreak it seems). there is a continuous clicking sound and no filament comes out. This has happened 3 times already. I eventually end up having to open the whole extruder mechanism, and then either pull the broken filament out of the PTFE tubing or push it through, and reload. Of course any print being done is ruined.
After much research I have decided to order a E3D V6 standard heatbreak (not the Prusa specific one) which has a uniform passthrough, and to replace the standard Prusa one with this.
Just thought I'd share my experience here, and see if anyone has other options that I might consider.
Thanks
RE: Prusa Original Enclosure causing printing issues with my MK3S+
Is the enclosure open or closed? The only time I print in a closed (LACK) enclosure is for ASA or PC. With PLA or PETg artifacts are common, and reports of heat creep that can lead to clogged filament paths are not unheard of.
I also recall seeing posts that indicate that the Prusa enclosure runs at a bit higher temperature compared to a LACK.
RE: Prusa Original Enclosure causing printing issues with my MK3S+
I printed with closed doors (to address the reason I need an enclosure in the first place, so can't leave the doors open) with an internal temp of 32C.
RE: Prusa Original Enclosure causing printing issues with my MK3S+
That's a dilemma then. As I said, I can't recommend printing PLA with the door closed.
RE: Prusa Original Enclosure causing printing issues with my MK3S+
@fuchsr, unfortunately, the problem also occurs with PETG sometimes. I am hoping (fingers crossed) that changing the heatbreak will solve my problem.
RE: Prusa Original Enclosure causing printing issues with my MK3S+ [SOLVED]
So last weekend I replaced the Prusa specific Heatbreak with the E3D v6 Heatbreak. Everything seems to be working fine now. Most time was taken in the first layer recalibration actually. Made me realize what a god send it was to receive the printer pre-calibrated, when I started my 3D printing journey.
RE:
Regardless of which heatbreak you use, if room temperature is near or above 30C, I'd follow fuchrs advice : leave the doors open printing PLA and possibly PETg too. In summer, the doors of my Lack enclosure remain closed printing PC, nylon or ASA but tor PLA, PETG or TPU.. doors open. The rest of year, with these 3 filaments I play with different angles of aperture of the doors, so that the temp. inside the enclosure is never above 30-32C.