Print settings for monitor stand adapter
My monitor has strange screw holes arrangement and non of the stands I found fit. So I designed an adapter. However, because I am a total amateur (I have my printer for about a month) I am not sure how to print it. The monitor has about 4kg, but I would like to add some margin, so let's say that the adapter must withstand 5kg of load. Because of the required strength, I want to use 30% or 40% infill with a honeycomb pattern. Right now I have only Prusament PLA filament, so I would use it.
Can you please tell me if these settings are OK or can you give me some suggestion? If you need more information, there are some files that may help.
RE: Print settings for monitor stand adapter
Hi Bucens,
the infill does not add a lot of strength to a model, it does improve crush resistance,
Honeycomb is good for crush resistance down the direction of the cells, but adds comparatively little strength across the cells
otherwise strength comes from perimeters and top and bottom layers.
in your model I suspect that the main load will be at right angles to the mounting screws. is that reasonable?
Does this part fit between the vdu and a mounting frame?
there are two apparent mounting faces, the small square face with four mounting holes
and the Large square face lets guess that the small face goes to the VDU and the large face goes towards a mounting frame... Is there any reason for the large square recess in the middle of the large square face? does the model need to be as thick as you show it from the small a
square face to the large square face,? if you can make that distance as short as possible you will reduce the torsional strain on the model!
If you could re design the model so that the bolts through the flange on the large square side of the model, start just below the surface level of the short side of the model, then the shear forces would be mostly transferred to the bolts, rather than the plastic, and the plastic could be made with fewer perimeters, or could simply be much more robust...
If I were to consider printing this model, I would probably put the large square face towards the build plate but this would create a large unsupported surface inside the model recess,
You could use supports but they tend to leave a bit of a rubbish surface after removal, if there is no need for the recess to exist, I would be tempted to fill it in, just leaving tunnels for the screws in the four corners of the small square. and print the whole block with relatively low density infill. and a high number of perimeters to give strength (If you were considering using supports and choose t0 re-design the large square to be a flat surface rather than a hollow, then the filament you would have wasted, as support, will become useful infill... )
do you have a larger nozzle than 0.4mm? if you do, you could consider using it, because the more layers you have in a model, the more inter layer bonds you have, and inter layer bonds are weaker than the extruded filament.
so if you can print thicker, wider layers (all be it at a slower print speed to stay within the extruders ability to melt the filament), the stronger your print will be... If you only have a 0.4mm nozzle, you can increase the perimeter extrusion width to say 0.6mm (Default is usually 0.45 mm)
In order to improve the interlayer bond strength further I would print the model at a higher than normal temperature ( say 10C higher than normal) and I would use one of the 3D infill patterns such as 3D honeycomb, Cubic or Gyroid, personally I would use Gyroid.
depending upon the perimeter extrusion width used I would use enough perimeters to give a 3 or 4 mm perimeter wall thickness, and enough top and bottom layers to give a 1.5 to 2mm top and bottom layer I would expect that to give adequate strength to hold a 5KG load
Note, when I loaded your .3mf project file, there was a dark patch on one corner of the small square surface, this indicates an error in the STL.
I used the 'Fix with the Netfabb' option, and the dark corner went away.
you chose to put the small square surface against the build surface, which reduces the area available to counter warping of the print, turning the model over would increase the length of the sides in contact with the build plate, and reduce warp potential...
the corners are sharp 90 degree corners, which tend to promote lifting, I would round the corners off to the biggest radius I could whilst not undercutting the mounting fastener head / nut / washer size.
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: Print settings for monitor stand adapter
@joantabb
Thank you for your reply, it is very helpful. I learned a lot of useful information.
The whole reason for this adapter is (and I should have written this in the original post, I apologise for that), that there is a ledge under screw holes of my screen. The holes are fitted for VESA 75x75 standard, but all stands I found are made for both 75x75 and 100x100. Because of this, the plate on the stand is too big and the holes do not align. So I designed the adapter.
I will consider filling the recess int the model however, there must be some protrusion. Also, I am thinking about doing it without the adapter and just using longer screws.
P. S. :
There are some additional images.
