Maximum Nozzle Temperatures for XL, Core One, MK4/S
I know what the listed temperatures are for these printers, but I'm wondering what the true maximum nozzle (and bed) temperatures are.
The reason I ask is we are looking to do some part prototyping and looking at some higher end filaments. The lower end of those filaments are at the upper end of what is published for these printers (270-290C). There are some filaments that fall in the 280-340C range, and some filaments reaching up to about 400C. I don't expect to do the high temperature filaments with these printers, but if we could reach the 340C and below range that would be good.
Simple change of the heater element and thermistor? Maybe a different heater block as well?
Will the nozzles hold up to these temperatures?
Are there temperature restrictions in the FW that prevent setting a high temperature?
- 1st "printer" TIKO 3D
- 2nd PRUSA i3 MK2S with MMU v1
- 3rd PRUSA i3 MK2S
- 4th PRUSA i3 MK3 with MMU v2- 5th PRUSA i3 MK4 (upgraded from MK3) with MMU v3 (upgraded from…
RE: Maximum Nozzle Temperatures for XL, Core One, MK4/S
What I have learned when looking at higher temp filaments is the other items on the printers. I have looked at these as well and realized that it is a whole different printer design. Need to make many changes.
All metal print head. Minimal electronics in the enclosure. From experience, I do know that the heater cartridge in the MK3s will go above 300 degrees and will melt everything around it as well as damage the heater block. If there is a PTFE tube in your print head, it will be damaged at the temperatures you need. You would also have to modify the software. Some of the higher temp filaments require enclosure temperatures to be above the glass temperature of many of the plastics being used.
There are discussions on modifying printers to print these materials.
If you want to print higher temperatures with Prusa you need the HT90.
Yes, the nextruder heater could be driven higher but the machine a a whole is built to an expected maximum temperature - you might get away with a few degrees higher for a while in return for shortening the printer's life.
The best tactic is probably to use low temperature filaments for the early prototyping and only when approaching workable versions pay a printing service for the more exotic printing. I have done this with metal parts but be aware that you may need to allow for more thermal contraction which might include designing to reduce thermal warping stresses.
Cheerio,
RE: Maximum Nozzle Temperatures for XL, Core One, MK4/S
Robin and Diem,
Thank you for your replies.
We are starting out with the lower end of those filaments, which can be printed on these printers. We hope they survive long enough in the chemically harsh environment they will be used in to give us an idea of the part will work. However, I have my doubts that they will. I believe some of the next level up filaments (low 300C would survive long enough.
If the designs do work then we would either seek to purchase a suitable printer capable of the or find a printing service that could do it. I recently watched a video by 3M that has a liquid (resin) PTFE 3D printer. That would work, but since its proprietary equipment/resin I'm sure its very expensive and would cost more than what we are currently doing.
- 1st "printer" TIKO 3D
- 2nd PRUSA i3 MK2S with MMU v1
- 3rd PRUSA i3 MK2S
- 4th PRUSA i3 MK3 with MMU v2- 5th PRUSA i3 MK4 (upgraded from MK3) with MMU v3 (upgraded from…
RE: Maximum Nozzle Temperatures for XL, Core One, MK4/S
No problem. I hate making mistakes and want to help others avoid the mistakes I made.
I am in the process of working on a project and asked a question about advanced materials and chemicals. I was given this link.
Chemical Resistance Information for Plastic Bottles, Containers & Safety Cans
RE: Maximum Nozzle Temperatures for XL, Core One, MK4/S
Thanks. I'm familiar with these types of compatibility charts - I'm a Chemist 🙂 and have to refer to these all the time mainly because our customers keep wanting to go low end with components or in some cases they want to try something out of the ordinary.
My initial inquiry was because we wanted to improve upon a commercially available components we use in one of our chemical generators and 3D print them. Low end filaments that may work (chemically & thermally) would be PP-GF (polypropylene-glass filled) and PVDF (polyvinylidene fluoride, aka Kynar). If those don't hold up PEEK (PolyEtherEtherKetone) definitely will but we would need a different printer as the extruder temp is around 400C and bed temp is around 140C and a heated chamber is recommended.
I was able to source the PP-GF and PVDF filaments from 3DXtech... now I just need to find some recommended print settings, other than the extruder and bed temps.
- 1st "printer" TIKO 3D
- 2nd PRUSA i3 MK2S with MMU v1
- 3rd PRUSA i3 MK2S
- 4th PRUSA i3 MK3 with MMU v2- 5th PRUSA i3 MK4 (upgraded from MK3) with MMU v3 (upgraded from…
RE: Maximum Nozzle Temperatures for XL, Core One, MK4/S
I just purchased some 3DXtech filament as well and searching for settings. Do a forum search, I came across many posts about 3DXtech filaments. Have not had time to look at them for my usage.