Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
I have been working on this model for three years and have been back and forth with Slicers CAD's Modelers and the like.
Using QIDI X Plus printer - 0.4Nozzle, 0.5LW, 0.3LH, 3Per., ASA, 255degrees-With the QIDI Print slicer I get good strength and not too bad quality but my model has text at the bottom and at 0.3LH the text is poor. I found the 0.3LH to be strong and there is barely an improvement in quality at lower LH.
- With PrusaSlicer we get the great Custom Layer Height Adjustment and it does a very good job on the text at the bottom @.16LH and the rest of the model at 0.3LH. The seam on the Prusa is also very good, no, the best! But, with all setting the same prints with Prusa do not have the same strength. I tried increasing the Extrusion Multiplier trying to get more flow and maybe stronger but, no help, though it did help with bed adhesion. Then there is the stupid purple solid infill that no one seems to like except Prua. It might not be as bad for me, and in fact there is a spot on the model that I wish it was applied. But, it applies it where I do not want it and apparently only Prusa dictates where you get stupid purple solid infill. So the Stupid Purple Solid Infill Crap (SPSIC) is a big factor, if for nothing else, a matter of principle in ones decision in the use thereof.
-SuperSlicer is pretty nice because of it's expanded settings as it also has the Custom Layer Height Adjustment. When printing with SuperSlicer however the text came out poor which renders the use of it futile other than it doesn't have SPSIC. Regardless, the SuperSlicer results are just as week and that moves it into last for this conversation.
- Simpliy3D is the next option but I'm not paying 200$ for a slicer that doesn't even have the custom Layer Height and is ripping people off for upgrades.
So, in summary and the point of my topic:-Using QIDI Print slicer I get very good results for strength and good quality other than the text area.-Using Prusa I get poor strength with very good quality at the text and seam.
What might I try that will give me the quality text of Prusa and the strength of the QIDI in the same amount of time? So no adding 2 walls or 80% infill.
RE:
You can see that I have modifiers in the most stressed area. The same is done with the QIDI/Cura slicer.
My latest try's were to match the machine setting of QIDI Print and increase the line width to 0.55. Neither improved the strength.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Have you tried Orca Slicer?
This thread might help you with your SPSIC problem.
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/blossom-vase-mild-twist/
After slicing have you looked at the model line by line to see if you can tell why there is a difference between QIDI and Prusa Slicer?
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Given that strength can be effected by multiple factors its hard to give any reasonable advice or even form an opinion with the information given.
To debug these sorts of issues we would need a copy of your Prusa Slicer project file so that we can see all your settings and also the modifiers you have applied.
For example, is the cooling applied to areas different between the slicers ? That can make a massive difference in interlayer adhesion.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Eds3DOdyssey,
I have not tried orca slicer and will try it today. I have examined the break points and have wondered if, white at the break is good or bad. I don't like the tiny voids but I do not think they contribute to the weakness as the thicker oval area is where the strength is derived. I can reduce those voids with minimum line width I think...? Not sure about the layer lines on the inside. I typically do not see that and am not concerned.
This photo shows an area that broke that is usually not easy to break. It is also where the SPSIC is so one would think it stronger. It is here that I would like the SPSIC on the other side but that is for another conversation I guess.
Neophyl,
All settings are are the same between the different slicers, which is the point. Seems to me, if there is a difference in a setting one would need the gcode from both slicers to compare. Over the past three years I have even experimented with 0.5, 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles. In all cases models sliced with Prusa are weaker. I feel like it is a flow issue since Prusa prints are lighter but I've tried all flow settings I can find. Seems the way things are calculated must be different and I'm betting it is not a standard setting that would resolve this. Seems to me I can not be the only one to discover this.
I have not delved into the world of reading gcode so for now I'm hoping someone has experienced this and has a suggestion. Any suggestions as to what I might look for in the gcodes that would indicate a plausible difference?
Thank you both very much for your replies.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
If prints are lighter then there's less plastic, simple as. PS might overlap perimeters less than Cura. Its one setting that is missing from PS that it could do with.
I'd still like to see a Prusa Slicer project though (File>Save Project As). That way we can slice and check everything as well as go through all the different preview options.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
I'd rather not share my proprietary file. I did in fact send the 3MF file and it didn't seem to attach but I'm glad it didn't as I do not want my file open to the world. If it was made public please delete it.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
You have to zip files up to attach them to the forum. Otherwise the forum just silently -doesn't.
You don't need to use a proprietary model. Just model a hollow cylinder, something with the same/similar wall thickness and slice it with both slicers you are using, print and compare. Can make it a simpler and quicker print for testing purposes. If it is a slicer difference then the cylinder model should also weigh different between them and also be weaker on the PS sliced one. Once you confirm that then you can post the project file with no qualms.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Yes, Ok, I thought to suggest you guys just make a half pipe but it does make much more sense for me to make it with my settings.
I have just run a test using Orca on the text area. It did good in that aspect so I cancelled that print to print the area that needs the most strength- currently printing.
If Orca also fails I am going to take the temperature up 10 degrees to 165. The Overture filament is rated at 160 but the Polymaker is rated at 170. From what I can tell they are the same filament with their exact same website and spools. I really do not like operating at the full top end of a variable but if it works fine and I will just assume flow parameters is why a higher temperature helps. I went through many test of filament brands and those are the two that had the best strength and cost value. I wanted to go with a USA filament for the sake of a better claim to made in the USA and support of my country but IIID MAX was the cheapest and worst of all as I could crush it in my hand, and the other, 3D X TECH the best of all brands but more expensive and poor/no customer communications.
I know I said that the basic settings need to remain the same but I think temperature is an acceptable change since it will not affect the print time.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Temp 165??? Did you mean 265?
Printed Solid is made in the US but I don’t think they make ASA??
RE:
Higher temperature seemed to help a little but still I was able to separate/break the layers. Very strange, don't you think?
Here is a file for a portion of the Grippy Ippy.
Push with thumbs in each direction of the arrows to put stress on the zig zag line area. With the QIDI Slicer I can push til it hurts my thumbs and still doesn't break. 
Did you get the file. It is a zip file. I don't see that it sent. I find it so clumsy to share media and files on this forum/.
Sorry, I do the same thing with my weight. Yea 265.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Printed Solid? They didn't come up in my research. Probably not ASA since that is what I searched for. But I do not recall them coming up in any search or review. I will investigate.
Why do my files not send. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong, but dag.
Maybe God doesn't want me to share any part of Our file.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
You have to zip files up to attach them to the forum. Otherwise the forum just silently -doesn't.
You don't need to use a proprietary model. Just model a hollow cylinder, something with the same/similar wall thickness and slice it with both slicers you are using, print and compare. Can make it a simpler and quicker print for testing purposes. If it is a slicer difference then the cylinder model should also weigh different between them and also be weaker on the PS sliced one. Once you confirm that then you can post the project file with no qualms.
That is the whole point of my post. For three years I have been doing that very thing and can prove that Prusa sliced is weaker on my model with the same settings and time. Making a different model only proves things for that model. It's not really a cylinder ( i think you know that) it is more of a half pipe.
That is why I said the prusa models are lighter. Because I weighted my models. I'm kool with sending a file of just the important area but the forum won't take my zip file either. Oh I just seen max size is 10MB.........arghhh well, my file is 21KB.
I printed a model earlier today using the QIDI Print slicer. It was an experiment to see if I could get Good Text, Good Strength and at what increase in time @0.24 layer height rather than 0.3LH. The print was just as strong, the text is almost acceptable but it will cost me about 40 min.
It is something outside the box. Perhaps something to do with Prusa's favoritism toward Bowden tubes and Bedslingers? The X plus is Core XY Direct Drive. Which I like.
Thanks again. I appreciate your attention(s).
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
I have to ask, what is a Grippy Ippy??
Have you tried braking a QIDI print in the same place as the ps brakes? Can you see any differences?
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
It is something outside the box. Perhaps something to do with Prusa's favoritism toward Bowden tubes and Bedslingers? The X plus is Core XY Direct Drive. Which I like.
Probably some small setting, check box, or some other difference in how the slicers handle things. I've got no doubt you will get to the bottom of it eventually. As far as I can tell Prusa doesn't have any favoritism towards any of the things you mention, given that their mainstay printers (Mk3, Mk4) are direct drive and have been for years, and they also make CoreXY machines (both the XL and their farm machine). I have been slicing files for my Voron using PS since I finished building it, and it works fine. The specific pre-loaded profiles for machines other than Prusas are not as well developed, but that's to be expected.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Grippy Ippy is an attachment for a level wind rod and reel fishing rig that will solve world peace and hunger and make me richer than Elon Musk.
But what it really does is counter the torque developed when cranking the reel. I thought I was ready to see if they would sell as I started a website and contacted accountants and such but my methods were clunky and I wanted to make some changes. So I made changes as one thing led to another I would up with a better product and the only thing stopping me now is getting the best print time with the best quality. For that I NEED Variable Layer Height so I can print the detail text at the bottom and the strength in the body. Why? You want one? You guys could probably reverse engineer it in a day. 🙁
It takes about 2 hours to print at 0.3LH and 2 1/2 with Custom Variable Layer Height. I just need the strength and 2 1/2 hours is great for me.
Dude, I am truly impressed at how any 3d print could be this strong, especially coming from the heavy 8 hour print time stuff I started out with. It literally hurts my thumb to try and break it as I just tried. So I just tried to break it by twisting with my whole hand and it hurt and did not break. Believe me I know how to break shit. Many a Grippy Ippy got the, throw to the floor test. Actually, my dog gives them the chew test! I am thinking of making a test tool when I decide to go into production but I trust my hands.
I think we are all going to learn something here. There is something rudimentary yet a critical difference in some parameter and it is the same for Prusaslicer, Super Slicer and Orca slicer for what I think is ultimately, Layer Adhesion. Another clue might be that Bed Adhesion is also harder and I need to raise the bed by about 0.05 and sometimes have to add adhesive.
Once figured out I think Super or Orca Slicer will be the best choice because they will save the additional time of not printing the SPSIC.
Why can I not send a file?
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
I am actually interested to see this product when you are ready to release it. I am one of the few, proud level wind reel users in a land where everybody fishes for salmon using a spinning reel. My dad was a steelhead fisherman from Washington state, and he infected my brother and I with the level wind disease.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Awesome! Used for trolling mostly, you know. Also used on the ocean. I fish Lake Erie for Walleye and Lake Ontario for Salmon, Lakers and Browns. Its not for the bass fishing size rigs. One might notice how the cranks are offset on reels to deal with the torqueing.
I don't expect to get rich. What I do expect is to have more headaches than my simple life likes.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Probably not super useful to me then. Mostly I stand on the bank or a small boat and cast.
RE:
Trying to send file again, again , again.
Welp, I guess there will be no resolution as this goes beyond UI settings.
So, what is the use of having an attach file option if no files can be sent.