Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???  

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

Nothing prints as easily as PLA. And for jigs etc it's actually a good material.

For models meant to be used outside I usually go with ASA. With an enclosure I find it to print almost as easily as PETG. 

And for higher temperature resistance my go-to material is PC-CF. 

In fact there seems to be now a CF variant for everything, PLA-CF, PETG-CF, etc. I've used PETG-CF in a few cases but don't really see much  use otherwise. For anything PC you want a hardened nozzle, such as Obxidian. 

RE:

I mostly use ABS, but without an enclosed printer it's not going to print as easily as PLA or PETG.  Even with the enclosed printer, there are still a few applications for which I find it better to use PLA or PETG on an open bedslinger.

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

I made most of my woodturning addition tools in PETG, but I am getting good experiences now with the Prusa PC Blend on my MK4. With a brim and a full height draft shield warping is manageable for the typical 50-60 mm objects. 

A lot depends though on the design. Warping kicks in when top layers are added, so I add slots ('diletatievoegen' 🤓 ) wherever practical.  

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

Have you considered variants of PLA? For example X-PLA from add:north https://addnorth.com/product/X-PLA/X-PLA%20-%201.75mm%20-%20750g%20-%20White

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

Website not very USA friendly. Keeps changing to non USD currency. Never got to the point of learning the shipping cost.

Posted by: @ujindesign

Have you considered variants of PLA? For example X-PLA from add:north https://addnorth.com/product/X-PLA/X-PLA%20-%201.75mm%20-%20750g%20-%20White

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

Just a thought, but you could check out the YouTube channel called Functional Print Friday. He makes a lot of stuff, including stuff he needs for his machine shop etc. 

As for filaments, You could try PA12-CF. This is a Nylon with carbon fiber. Requires drying before print, but it is way less hydroscopic than other nylons, and it is super tough, heat resistant and chemically resistant. It prints quite hot (260-300 degrees C), but it is not difficult. Keep it dry, and print. Oh, you also need glue to make it stick. I just bought a nylon-glue (made for 3Dprinting). The print sticks really well, and it is easy to break free after. The glue washes off with soap and water. 
I print this on my Ender 3 S1. Not a very good printer, and no enclosure. 🙂 

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

Personally I would, and do, just print PLA. If it's anything functional, should my PLA model fail straight away then look at other materials. However, if the part lasts a long while, then I'd call it a success and just print another out of PLA when/if the first fails.

I watched a video on YouTube of someone who printed bits for his garden in PLA, and has had them outside for several years and they still hold strong (hose pipe holder, bits for a bird feeder, etc). Sure, there is some degradation and some warping etc, but the parts are largely OK and working fine. I'd certainly call that a success, and then just print another as and when need be. Nice and easy. 

If they are parts that are more functional, like hooks, or parts that turn or require movement etc, then reconsider. If not, PLA may very well surprise you. For jigs inside a workshop, I reckon PLA or PETG would be fine. 

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

I agree that PLA could work in many indoor/outdoor applications (i.e. good enough even with minor warping, etc.).  However, you should probably also consider the color, size and amount of sun it will see . . .

One example in PLA that only took 4 weeks outdoors in Iowa in September. 🙂  (see attached pictures - NEW and 4 wk old)

RE: Filament Step-up from PLA/PETG???

Black PLA is certainly the least likely material to stand direct sunlight over a moderate period of time. White would have been better. But for outdoors I would pick PETG, which is almost as easy to print as PLA and much more resistant to sunlight. And if you have your printer dialed in, ASA would be even better.
I have a weather station shield printed from white PETG that has been outdoors for some years now and has not deformed.