RE: Filament settings
That is what I am using on most of my printers.
I use standard flow Obxidian nozzles everywhere. Never had to replace any.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Filament settings
I have printed 3DTech CarbonX ASA+CF with 0.4mm steel nozzle. I did need the precision for what I was printing. I found that this filament, when calibrated is very accurate.
From this thread, I am looking at Obxidian nozzles for my REVO when I get it installed. I came across an interesting test of how hard this nozzle is. Not compared to a true diamond nozzle. Once I put the steel nozzle into my printer, I have just kept using it. I had to modify temperatures due to thermal characteristics between brass and steel.
As for calibration, it depends on how accurate you want or need. For many things I do, I need sub mm accuracy so I spend the extra time calibrating.
I follow much of what is on the link you provided and will look at more of it once I finish my printer upgrade. Presently, I measure filament thickness, mass and put them into PrusaSlicer. Do temp tower. Next extrusion multiplier and ensure that I am less than 2% error. Finally shrinkage. For filaments that will be doing large prints, I run full size X/Y and Z calibration prints. I created a simple X/Y cross and simple Z tower in FreeCAD. I am going to look at what hyiger has recommended at a later date. I have a spreadsheet to calculate the corrections to put into the slicer. I have been reading about doing an angle calibration to see how square your printer is.
Even after 3 years (of my own), I am still learning and making mistakes, like, not drying brand new filament right out of the box or thinking that a filament in a dry box, after months, would eventually dry out. These were very big mistakes.