Bed adhesion problems - PLA
I have been having a hard time with PLA prints not sticking. Sometimes printing Benchy it will print find until 6 mm or so, then the model moves and it is printing in air. I just purchased a new smooth steel sheet thinking my older one had lost some of it's coating or something. Before the new sheet the model would drag around with the hot end. I clean the sheet with 91% IPA prior to each print. ON the old sheet I even tried glue stick, and the blue tape - would not stick. Filament temp is 215
I have used the recommended 60 degree bed temp, and also 70 degrees to no avail.
I am open to suggestions!
Please run a first layer 'Z' calibration and show us the result *on the print sheet*
C heerio,
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
I tried that - it would not stick!
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
Adjust your Z first layer height closer to the sheet. You didn't show a picture of your calibration result. Clean the area that you're going to print on by sticking some packing tape to it and peeling it off a few times, that works really well. Raise your bed temperature and your first layer temperature. In short, experiment.
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
Then it sounds like your nozzle is too high.
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
I can give that a try too
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
What is your Z set at?
How much did you adjust the Z down during the test?
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
It really didn't get far enough in the test to start adjusting Z, but previous tests had it at -0.600 - I have not done a test since. I tried adjusting the pinda before I ran the last test
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
It really didn't get far enough in the test to start adjusting Z
Why? What happened?
I just purchased a new smooth steel sheet
New sheet, new live-Z (you can use a different sheet profile in LCD menu).
I tried adjusting the pinda before I ran the last test
Now you definitely need to redo live-Z (for each sheet).
A few photos would go a long way toward getting your issue resolved.
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
It really didn't get far enough in the test to start adjusting Z
Why? What happened? After it printed the Brim and the square, it started dragging the print around
I just purchased a new smooth steel sheet
New sheet, new live-Z (you can use a different sheet profile in LCD menu). I'll do the PINDA and try live Z again
I tried adjusting the pinda before I ran the last test
Now you definitely need to redo live-Z (for each sheet).
A few photos would go a long way toward getting your issue resolved.
OK - I'll try all that at the end of the workday 🙂
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
Bear in mind, the live Z adjustment is "live adjusting the z-offset", meant as a way to do tweaks to a calibration setting. The z-offset (the calibration setting) is "here's how much we need to adjust to get the nozzle to the right height to get the right amount of 'squish' after the PINDA detects the magnet". And, because it's dependent on all of them, any change to the pinda, the sheet, or the nozzle, is going to require you to change the Z value. You should run the calibration after changing any of those, then when you're printing, Live-Z is available to do tweaks if you see something up with your first layer where it could use more or less squish.
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
Thank you
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
played around with live Z and got the attached 3X3 print, I think I need to back it off a bit, the last15 mm or so feels rougher than the previous one 15 or so - and the benchy is acceptable and stayed stuck!
Would sending my old smooth sheet through the dishwasher and then hand washing it be acceptable?
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
Before you start, raise the nozz;e up to about 100mm and bring the nozzle up up temp, then, go to settings/move axes/extruder and turn the control knob clockwise to make sure filament is being extruded freely. If it isn't, you'll have to solve why not before proceeding. If it's extruding OK, I suggest you try some "extra hold" hair spray on a previously cleaned sheet as an aid to adhesion. Then, as the Z first layer calibration test is running, use a 3" x 5" index card to "probe" directly under the nozzle as it is (trying) to extrude. If you meet no resistance, you are WAY too high. If you are "in the ball park", you should encounter a "step resistance" as the card goes under the nozzle and it should start extruding a trace onto the card. If it does not, lower the nozzle -0.050mm at a time until you get a trace on the card. Once that is done, remove the card and continue owering the nozzle -.010mm at a time until you get a good first layer pattern. If you get to -2.0mm and still don't have a good trace, stop and raise the PINDA probe by 1mm and start over. It takes patience. Good luck.
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RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
Thanks, Red - I got a pretty good result above, I think it is a tad too close as the last few mm of the 3x3 single layer print was rougher than the few before. I'll run it again later, and raise the Z just a bit until it feels really smooth
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
I'm very surprised that the admonition to 'clean the plate and clean it my way' has not appeared in this thread yet. 😉
In order to stick, yes, the Z calibration must be good, plus the build plate must be Really Most Sincerely Clean. A stray fingerprint or any kind of contamination can kill a print.
PLA often seems to be more tricky WRT first layer adhesion, particularly with small pieces and when doing break-away supports.
Also don't be afraid to use an adhesion booster. I often use Layerneer with smaller PLA prints, particularly when using supports.
It also works well as a release agent when dealing with PETg, ABS, ASA, PC Blend, etc.?
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
I had not heard of layerneer (Bed Weld) before - just looked it up. Got tips on usage?
RE: Bed adhesion problems - PLA
Yes, two ways I use it for PLA.
1. For smaller objects just apply a thin coat where the print(s) will be. It will not leave impressions on the underside of the prints like glue stick will.
2. For larger objects you can either coat most of the plate or else hit the areas where the corners/edges plus support footings will be, as those are usually the adhesion issue and warp/curl-up areas.
For PETg and ABS/ASA/PC Blend it's pretty much a whole build surface coat, since those will stick too well to the PEI coating.
Between prints, just take alcohol on a paper towel and refresh the surface. One coating will usually be good for several prints.
It's a good product, but recently the speculation was confirmed with a fairly high confidence level that it's basically repackaged hair spray, and some people do use the much cheaper hair sprays that are sold at drug stores and such. The stylist that both my wife and I use took a look-feel of Layerneer and said it's typical of the so-called unscented sprays. She mentioned the brand name Rave, but could not be sure that was an exact match on the product.
Even with this information I will keep using the Layerneer brand. The applicator works very well and a bottle lasts a very long time.
I had not heard of layerneer (Bed Weld) before - just looked it up. Got tips on usage?