Anyone use NinjaTek Edge?  

It's unlikely that anything printable - which requires some stiffness - will ever make a 'grippy' tire which requires minimum stiffness.

What you can try is printing the basic tire shape in flex and then paint it with latex, two or three layers/coats might make a useful difference.

Cheerio,

RE: Anyone use NinjaTek Edge?

I am using NinjaTek Edge. it is very easy to use. As far as I can see it's more pursuing than NinjaFlex. Eggy Car

RE:

For really "squishy" stuff you might be better off with a pourable elastomer. I have had good results with products from Smooth-On, Inc. Their products are intended to create flexible molds for plaster (and similar materials) casting, but what I have been doing is designing and 3D printing the (negative) molds themselves (PLA is almost always suitable), then using/pouring the Smooth-On products into the molds to create as low as Shore A-30 solid positives. The material is a little tricky to work with because you really need a vacuum chamber to remove air bubbles entrained into the two-part mixture (three if you add color) during the mixing process. Pot life after mixing/degassing is usually no more than 30 minutes and cure time can be over 24 hours for thicker specimens. A good mold release agent is highly recommended. (Ask me how I know!)

RE: Anyone use NinjaTek Edge?

Locally I can get a clear spray “Flex seal” that claims it is liquid rubber.. Might try that and see what happens. 

Posted by: @diem

It's unlikely that anything printable - which requires some stiffness - will ever make a 'grippy' tire which requires minimum stiffness.

What you can try is printing the basic tire shape in flex and then paint it with latex, two or three layers/coats might make a useful difference.

Cheerio,

RE:

I tried the Flex-Seal product(s) also. The spray-on product may be OK in thin cross-section, but the pourable, paint consistency product is problematic in thicker applications. The Smooth-On products are basically two-part epoxies and will cure anaerobically. Flex-Seal requires component evaporation to the air in order to cure. Once the outside "skin" cures, it denies air to the deeper portions of the model which may take days/weeks/months/never to solidify, depending on the absolute thickness. Again, ask me how I know!.

RE:

Thanks for sharing your experience! Yes.. So based on what you said, I’d spray sparingly and let dry completely and maybe do 2-3 coats over a few days. See if the covering holds up for tires.  Not sure if Smooth-On is easy to get here, but I’ll look.. Sounds like getting rid of the bubbles might be tricky.

Posted by: @reddawg

I tried the Flex-Seal product(s) also. The spray-on product may be OK in thin cross-section, but the pourable, paint consistency product is problematic in thicker applications. The Smooth-On products are basically two-part epoxies and will cure anaerobically. Flex-Seal requires component evaporation to the air in order to cure. Once the outside "skin" cures, it denies air to the deeper portions of the model which may take days/weeks/months/never to solidify, depending on the absolute thickness. Again, ask me how I know!.

RE: Anyone use NinjaTek Edge?

Yes, several thin coats would be the best approach. Air bubbles in Smooth-On is indeed the trickiest factor in using it. Judicious placement of pour channels and sprue holes (i.e., general knowledge of mold design) is a necessity for successful results.