Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings  

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

That will pull molten filament up into the cold end. Maximum retractions for the V6 hotend are recommended to be less than 2mm by E3D, the manufacturer.

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

@bobstro didn't plug his own website so I'll do it for him. He has a page on custom firmware for Slic3r and demonstrates a technique for reducing ooze during print start. Basically (among other things) he heats the hot-end almost to melting temperature, does the mesh leveling, and then heats the extruder to the first layer print temperature and starts the print. For all the gory details, see this page:
http://projects.ttlexceeded.com/3dprinting_slic3r_gcode.html

I shamelessly stole his start gcode in an earlier incarnation for my own use. Now that I see an updated process I may steal that one as well. 😉

Hey bobstro, another way to monitor the PINDA warm-up process that I've found is if one has connected to the serial port (like using Pronterface), the communications window will show and update the PINDA current temperature and target temperature with the M860 command.

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

That will pull molten filament up into the cold end. Maximum retractions for the V6 hotend are recommended to be less than 2mm by E3D, the manufacturer.

I've been retracting 8mm manually and have had no issues. It really helps with controlling the ooze.

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

[...] I've been retracting 8mm manually and have had no issues. It really helps with controlling the ooze.

That does assume the previous print job fully completed. I prefer to deal with ooze at the start of every job so I'm not dependent on the previous job results to eliminate ooze. Hey, if it works for you, go for it. It's easy enough to add a line or two to the end gcode. I wouldn't expect Prusa to put in a feature that is so likely to cause them support headaches due to the hotend manufacturer's guidelines being ignore though.

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

[...] For all the gory details, see this page:
http://projects.ttlexceeded.com/3dprinting_slic3r_gcode.html Definitely a case of standing on the shoulders of giants. My main goal there is to collect and document procedures that have been developed, contributed, and refined by the community, namely the 2 step warmup process and PINDA warmup, along with some of my own refinements. As you noticed, I've done some updates, mostly to move the warmup spot out of the main print region and to lift the nozzle after leveling while waiting for the nozzle to heat up. I noticed small dents in my PEI and wanted to add in a safety factor. The prime line is easier to remove as a happy accident. I'm getting no ooze or leveling dots with PLA, PETG, Ngen and a host of other filaments using nozzles from 0.15 to 1.5mm.

I shamelessly stole his start gcode in an earlier incarnation for my own use. Now that I see an updated process I may steal that one as well. 😉 No worries. Consider it a collection of community works. You're welcome to it, and I hope the documentation is useful. All accolades go to this community.

[...] another way to monitor the PINDA warm-up process that I've found is if one has connected to the serial port (like using Pronterface), the communications window will show and update the PINDA current temperature and target temperature with the M860 command.
One of these days I'll stick a RPi back there running something more than MotionEyeOS. I'm not so much after printer and job control as status monitoring. Looks like monitoring the serial output is straightforward. It would be nice to display the current PINDA temp during warmup. Thanks!

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

...using nozzles from 0.15 to 1.5mm.

HOLY 1.21 GIGAWATTS! Where do you even get a nozzle of this size for the V6 or do you have another hotend? Is it a Chinesium knockoff? The largest E3D sells is 0.8.

Sorry for the hijack.

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

[...] HOLY 1.21 GIGAWATTS! Where do you even get a nozzle of this size for the V6 or do you have another hotend? Is it a Chinesium knockoff? The largest E3D sells is 0.8.
I ordered a couple of these off AliExpress. I do not recommend them, but I was curious to see how far a stock Mk3 could be pushed. At sizes above 1.0mm, the E3D V6 hotend is being pushed pretty hard.

[*] Speeds have to be kept to a crawl (<10mm/s) to avoid over-running the E3D V6.
[*] Forget any sort of bridging! The extrusions are just too heavy.
[*] The finish on the nozzles is very rough and filament likes to stick to it.
[*] The nozzles themselves are some stupid oblong shape that is tough to grab with a hex socket. You almost have to use pliers.
[*] Results look like they were printed with a tube of toothpaste. Not necessarily a bad thing, but likely only usable for vase mode prints.
[*] The prints did complete. No particular problems with ooze compared to other sizes.

I do have 1.00mm nozzles from P3-D that work very well for large functional parts.

Re: Add End of Print Retraction Setting to Slic3r Settings

[...] HOLY 1.21 GIGAWATTS! Where do you even get a nozzle of this size for the V6 or do you have another hotend? Is it a Chinesium knockoff? The largest E3D sells is 0.8.
I ordered a couple of these off AliExpress. I do not recommend them, but I was curious to see how far a stock Mk3 could be pushed. At sizes above 1.0mm, the E3D V6 hotend is being pushed pretty hard.

[*] Speeds have to be kept to a crawl (<10mm/s) to avoid over-running the E3D V6.
[*] Forget any sort of bridging! The extrusions are just too heavy.
[*] The finish on the nozzles is very rough and filament likes to stick to it.
[*] The nozzles themselves are some stupid oblong shape that is tough to grab with a hex socket. You almost have to use pliers.
[*] Results look like they were printed with a tube of toothpaste. Not necessarily a bad thing, but likely only usable for vase mode prints.
[*] The prints did complete. No particular problems with ooze compared to other sizes.

I do have 1.00mm nozzles from P3-D that work very well for large functional parts.

Yeah, I see what you're saying about the surface finish and will take your advice to pass. Thanks for the info!

BTW, pretty cool effect on the benchy 🙂