30h skull test print  

Re: 30h skull test print

Alexander

That's very nice, but I don't understand why you want to print so slowly. At 0.1mm layer, I would have pushed to at least 40mm/sec with perimeters and maybe 60 for loops (and with 3 perimeters/loops).

It looks as though you may be over-extruding slightly as well.

Peter

Re: 30h skull test print

well I thought I could improve print quality by printing slower... But newest test results show that I can push it as you said^^
What makes you think I am over-extruding?

Re: 30h skull test print

Very nice looking!!!

I was in the middle of a 19 hour print of a 7X7 Melted darth vader mask this afternoon(from the new Episode 7) when unfortunatly we suffered a power outage 🙁

Re: 30h skull test print

Hey, thanks, and ouch...

Re: 30h skull test print

@ Alexander

The first picture, near the top of the skull, not as smooth as I would have expected and other layers not quite as clean as they should be. (sorry, being super-critical here...).

Have you printed a thin-wall calibration test cube and measured the thickness of the walls?

@Erron - happened to me many moons ago. Now connected via my office UPS.

Peter

Re: 30h skull test print

@peter

thanks so much for this input, that is exactly what I am looking for here! So if I understood you correctly I will print a thin wall, compare the thickness with the "should be" value and change extrusion percentage accordingly. By the way my camera was also extremely critical, in normal daylight you dont see the lines nearly as much - the picture is a bit more than lifesize actually^^

By the way, yesterday I printed a piece 40mm/s, first at 50% speed and halfway through it I went up to 100% and the only difference I saw initially by eye was that the glossy finish turned dull, so maybe it has more to do with my extremely low print speed than with extrusion?

Re: 30h skull test print

Hi Alexander

Glossy finish at slower speed was probably to do with the higher temperature reached by the filament when extruding slower.

I have attached the thin-wall calibration document for KISSlicer, but it is equally relevant with all slicers.

FYI, I print with a line thickness equal to the nozzle diameter. It is possible to get a better stick (less chance of delamination) and arguably better finish at nozzle width + 5 to 10%. I tend to do this only when I am printing a vase, just to ensure water-tightness.

At the end of the day, it's what works best for you. What anyone else says really doesn't matter, as long as you are happy with the results.

Peter

Re: 30h skull test print

In my experience, PLA printed models are quite hard to shot with camera. Reality is usually much better than photo :-).