Prusa Mini
So I've had my Prusa Mini for probably less than a week. Almost every print fails to stick to the bed etc. I try and look up the potential issues and almost every web search provides opposite potential problems. Hot bed to hot or to cold, nozzle to high or to low etc. Its like gatekeeping for 3d printing. You have to have a mechanical engineering degree apparently to enjoy having a 3d printer. I feel like I've wasted a bunch of money at this point and feel like my hopes to print useful items is a pipe dream. I tried glue to get my prints to adhere didn't work. I ran the first layer calibration and that looks fine still my prints fail. I adjust the Super Pinda to ensure it touches a zip tie like the manual says still fails.
Best Answer by jseyfert3:
I have the live z setting at -.450 maybe still to high? But the descriptions on help articles are 'flattened but not squished'? They provide diagrams but that's not overly helpful since to match those references I would have to run a crazy amount of first layer calibration tests to achieve those results and then adjust from there.
The specific number isn't a useful comparison between printers. So long as it doesn't reach -2 and the nozzle is still too high, it doesn't matter what the specific number is, only that the height is correct.
What I found useful in setting the height was when starting first layer calibration, at a height of 0 (default), for me at least the nozzle was well above the bed and extruding filament that's not even touching the bed. Anyway, I start the calibration, then take a flashlight and shine it at the nozzle while I look from the side. I dial the Z down with the knob. I don't look at the screen to see the number, it doesn't matter. I bring the nozzle down, down, down. The filament starts touching. Then I keep going and you can see the transition live as the filament starts "flattening".
Once you get the initial lines "flattened", dial in the height with a flat square surface. The square at the end of the 1st layer calibration. Or print the Prusa logo on the USB drive, this is excellent for dialing in first layer. Just start the print, then go to Tune > Live Z on the printer screen, and tweak the height after it fills in the parameter of the rectangle and begins laying down the solid first layer inside the rectangle. When it's filling in this first solid layer, what you want is a solid layer. If the nozzle is too high, you'll see the filament that's laid down is rounded and doesn't touch the filament next to it. Just keep lowering the nozzle until you have a solid surface of a first layer. If you go too low, you'll see the nozzle starts pushing plastic up on both sides and making ridges, so just raise it up until it stops making ridges.
If you can provide a few example pictures it would be helpful for us. I can also provide you some example pictures of what I'm talking about.
RE: Prusa Mini
What kind of bed plate are you using?
Is it the Smooth or the Textured? Have you cleaned it by washing or wiping with alcohol?
What kind of material are you trying to print and at what temperatures?
RE: Prusa Mini
Good afternoon,
Thanks for the reply.
I have both bed plates. I've primarily been using the steel version. I have used Isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate fairly regularly.
I've been printing in PLA and have been tuning the nozzle to be at 215 and the hotbed to 70 (with the thinking that maybe the bed being hotter would help adhesion).
I had one type of filament get clogged and then the extruder wouldn't pull or load the filament so I had to take that apart and fix the gear to ensure the screw was on the flat part of the gear. Now it loads great and no clogs but still plenty of failure.
I have the live z setting at -.450 maybe still to high? But the descriptions on help articles are 'flattened but not squished'? They provide diagrams but that's not overly helpful since to match those references I would have to run a crazy amount of first layer calibration tests to achieve those results and then adjust from there.
RE: Prusa Mini
I just had a similar problem with PLA. I flipped the bed sheet over (unused side) and dropped the temperature to 200 and the bed at 60. It solved my problem. sometimes the bed gets used so much in one spot it causes a problem with adherence. I was making some real small parts to a print.
RE: Prusa Mini
I assume that your printer has been assembled according to the following instructions.
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/1-introduction_203948
Setting the correct height for the s.p.i.n.d.a is done on the bed WITHOUT A STEEL PLATE.
Step two in the following instructions.
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/troubleshooting-the-mini-mini-assembly_7848
And that extra attention has been paid to aligning the XYZ axes.
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini_158518
If all is well and you have thoroughly cleaned the smooth steel plate with hot water and dish soap and dried it well with a paper towel,
you only touch the steel plate at the edges and place it on the epoxy bed of the printer.
Now turn on the printer and go to the calibration menu and select WIZARD.
Press the rotary knob to start it.
Follow the instructions that appear on the screen.
If no error messages came along, it is now time to determine the correct distance for the nozzle.
Go back to the calibration menu and now select FIRST LAYER CALIBRATION.
Press the rotary knob to start it and follow the on-screen instruction.
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122
You will probably have to do this a number of times, because the chance of getting it right the first time is very small.
Also keep in mind that if you have several types of steel plate, each type has its own 'nozzle height profile'
almost every print fails to stick to the bed etc.
Glue is used to *reduce* adhesion for polymers that stick too tight... eg, Flex, nylon, perhaps PETG but there are better alternatives for that.
95% of all poor adhesion is due to a poor first layer calibration or a greasy (fingerprints) print sheet.
If you're unsure of your first layer Z calibration, run it and show us the result *on the build sheet.*
The numerical value is machine specific and will change slowly as your nozzle wears but once set it should be OK for three or for months. If the value goes lower than -2 you need to adjust the PINDA, usually one screw thread down is enough. Once you know what a good first layer looks like you will be able to dial it in with just one run of the calibration - until then it takes forever.
Cleaning with IPA is fine between prints but as soon as adhesion drops you need to step it up, assuming you are printing PLA then dishwashing detergent (Dawn/Fairy) and plenty of HOT water is your basic recourse. Dry with a fresh paper towel and handle by the edges only.
Cheerio,
RE: Prusa Mini
I have the live z setting at -.450 maybe still to high? But the descriptions on help articles are 'flattened but not squished'? They provide diagrams but that's not overly helpful since to match those references I would have to run a crazy amount of first layer calibration tests to achieve those results and then adjust from there.
The specific number isn't a useful comparison between printers. So long as it doesn't reach -2 and the nozzle is still too high, it doesn't matter what the specific number is, only that the height is correct.
What I found useful in setting the height was when starting first layer calibration, at a height of 0 (default), for me at least the nozzle was well above the bed and extruding filament that's not even touching the bed. Anyway, I start the calibration, then take a flashlight and shine it at the nozzle while I look from the side. I dial the Z down with the knob. I don't look at the screen to see the number, it doesn't matter. I bring the nozzle down, down, down. The filament starts touching. Then I keep going and you can see the transition live as the filament starts "flattening".
Once you get the initial lines "flattened", dial in the height with a flat square surface. The square at the end of the 1st layer calibration. Or print the Prusa logo on the USB drive, this is excellent for dialing in first layer. Just start the print, then go to Tune > Live Z on the printer screen, and tweak the height after it fills in the parameter of the rectangle and begins laying down the solid first layer inside the rectangle. When it's filling in this first solid layer, what you want is a solid layer. If the nozzle is too high, you'll see the filament that's laid down is rounded and doesn't touch the filament next to it. Just keep lowering the nozzle until you have a solid surface of a first layer. If you go too low, you'll see the nozzle starts pushing plastic up on both sides and making ridges, so just raise it up until it stops making ridges.
If you can provide a few example pictures it would be helpful for us. I can also provide you some example pictures of what I'm talking about.
RE: Prusa Mini
If you could post an image, it would be easier for us to investigate what is the problem. Take a photo of your bottom side of your failed print.
RE: Prusa Mini
Good afternoon,
This was helpful. Basically, I just started over with the first layer calibration at zero and kept making bold adjustments while crouched over to allow me to observe the hot end laying down the filament (My eyes level with the bed). I finally was able to achieve the desired results and have successful prints. Thank you to everyone that responded. I appreciate it.
RE: Prusa Mini
Thank you, I believe I have the issue solved.