What would it take to make it a true High-temp printer?
 
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What would it take to make it a true High-temp printer?  

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MileHigh3Der
(@milehigh3der)
Honorable Member
What would it take to make it a true High-temp printer?

I’d like to print higher temp resins than the current 290 limit.  PEKK seems to be an interesting one. E3D Makes hot ends that go high enough. Prusa has the tech from the HT90.

I understand that it won’t be a $1000 printer.

Just looking at the released literature, you’d have to use higher temp belts.  Maybe bearings?  Could you boot strap some parts made on HT90 printers for other temp sensative ones- or just print them in the BASF Ultrafuse metal.

What is the critical parts?

Posted : 01/12/2024 8:13 am
Holck
(@holck)
Eminent Member
RE:

I was a bit surprised they didn't increase the hotend max temp of the Core one to at least 300° to match the BL X1p/C, or get it to hit 320° to match the BL X1E.

New filaments coming out recently are great for mechanical parts - but would be unable to be printed on a Core One at 290° - would seem like a good time to up the hotend max temp

PET-CF 280-320°C (290° could get you poor layer adhesion)
PPA-CF 300-320° C
PPS-CF 310 - 340 ℃

Going past 300°C should require a PT100 or PT1000 nozzle temp sensor - replacing the NTC that would max out at 300° C. (BL does seem to use a NTC on the X1E for 320°C which is a bit weird)Also a 50w or 60w heater element would help it reach the high temps faster.All printed parts in proximity of the hotend would need to be printed in better materials.

Maybe they could offer a Revo hotend version of the nextruder with a modified heatsink, the Revo is what they use for the HT 90 - offering the Revo HT heater block with the Revo HT Abrasive compatible hotend - that combination could even go to 500°

To get the chamber above 60° would require quite some modifications to parts especially the printed ones - even the nextruder would need to be resigned - don't know if that is feasible at all

This post was modified 3 weeks ago by Holck
Posted : 15/12/2024 8:13 pm
Brian
(@brian-12)
Reputable Member
RE:

In a nutshell everything needs to be steel, and your nozzle liquid cooled for the heat break.  This is how industrial printers that print filaments like PEEK are made. 

Posted : 15/12/2024 8:55 pm
Diem
 Diem
(@diem)
Illustrious Member

@brian-12 has the essence, there are plenty of high temperature printers available but they do tend to cost 10x - 50x as much as a Prusa - for good reason.  I expect Prusa will slowly move into this market field and bring prices down but don't expect them to be hobbyist/domestic prices.

I suspect that running at the advertised max temperatures will shorten the working life of the Bambu machines but Icbw - we shall see.

Cheerio,

Posted : 16/12/2024 6:30 am
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