ich wollte mal das leidige Thema Stützen ansprechen. Bei mir ist das immer ein riesen Drama, wenn ich was mit Stützen gedruckt habe, diese raus/abzubekommen. 

In der Regel drucke ich mit PLA und verwende die Standardeinstellungen des Prusa-Slicers. Aber die Fläche, die gestützt wurde, sieht in der Regel sehr hässlich aus und das Entfernen ist wie gesagt, sehr fummelig. 

• Welche Einstellungen gilt es vorzunehmen? 
• Wie macht ihr das?

Wenn ihr mir hier unter die Arme greifen könntet, wäre ich euch sehr dankbar...
VG

Basti

I've had this issue in the past, back then I've just changed the nozzle which fixed it. Since then, I had no issues, until a few days back.

Fillament type is PETG (I only print PETG) and nozzle is 4mm.

What I've tried:

Changing the nozzle

 - I've made sure it is tight and that there is still gap between the heater block

Cleaning the extruder teeth + making sure it doesn't skip

Cold pull

 - I did it with PETG, as it is my only fillament

 - It has fairly strange shape (the photo of white filament in attachments)

Changing the PTFE tube (link) that goes through the cooling block

 - previous PTFE tubes had heat damage and slightly deformed bottoms (photo  in attachments)

 - last one even had a bit of filament stuck in its bottom part

The first time this issue manifested, it was after I lost power, so the fan cooling the metal cooling block above the heat brake and heated block stopped and the whole cooling block got fairly hot. Still, I print at 225 - 230˚C, so PTFE should be able to handle that, but somehow the tubes end-up damaged.

I've thought that maybe the cooling block fan is not blowing at full power, but if that was the case, the PTFE tube in the cooling block would work for at least a bit, but the very first layer test after change already had under-extrusion issue (photo  in attachments).

Still it seems that perhaps the heat brake isn't fully working. I'm thinking of maybe replacing the fan (link) (is it a standard 40x40x10 non-RPM controlled fan, found in PC part stores?), as that is quite simple. Beyond that, I have no idea. I was very surprised how suddenly the issue appeared. The PTFE tube is sticking out the right amount there should not be a gap anywhere, I'm a bit baffled by this.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1921857-hal-rotterdam-nieuw-statendam1-500-cruise-ship?from=search#profileId-2223857

I can't work out how to create a preset for the Core One + in Bambustudio so have tried exports of the 3MF and STL files to use in PrusaSlicer, but the plates import the STL's all over the place and the multimaterial paint colours do not import properly.

Is there a way of using the CoreOne + with MMU3 for this file?

I've read that Orca slicer will do it but get lost trying to configure the Core One for OrcaSlicer and when I did try, had gcode errors come up as well. 

Appreciate any help.

I just had an unfortunate mishap with my hardened nozzle, and now I need to replace it sooner than expected.

My plan was to keep using the hardened nozzle until INDX for the Core One L arrived. Well… that plan is gone, so since I have to buy a new nozzle anyway, I might as well consider going all‑in.

I mainly print PETG and ASA, but also a lot of PCCF, so I definitely need something abrasion‑resistant.

Is the Diamondback really worth paying twice as much as the E3D ObXidian? Should I invest in it now, or just grab an ObXidian and hope it lasts until INDX releases—at which point the Nextruder becomes obsolete anyway?

Also, what’s the actual difference between the High Flow and Standard Flow ObXidian nozzles? And why does Prusa sell its own ObXidian variant for a few euros less?

Wishing you all a great evening and a relaxing rest of the weekend.

Is there an option to get a temporary sectional view in PrusaSlicer without actually cut the model into pieces?

The photos show an example of such a troublesome object: The object is a ring with a circular snap locking mechanism. I would like to select the bottom side of the overhang (pink arrow).

The best I could manage is shown in the 2nd picture. If I just tilt and rotate the object correctly, I can get a glimpse of that face when viewing the object from below. However, the Suppo rt Tool still doesn't allow me to select the desired face as it always snaps to one of the other more prominent faces.

I am using a Prusa Mini+, filament is high speed PLA, diameter: 1,75 mm, nozzle: 0,4 mm

and after yesterdays filament change, nothing comes out of the nozzle any more. 

I have tried to repeat the filament change a couple of times, stuck the needle fully into the nozzle, took the nozzle out and tried the filament change without the nozzle, that worked. Place the nozzle and tried again, nooo!

What do I need to do?

https://www.printables.com/model/178032-articulated-shark

Everything turns out great except the top teeth. Even when I try supports there are still issues with the teeth. I am new to using supports. Can anyone provide advice on how to set it up so the top teeth print perfect? I tried painting on supports, painted only the top teeth.

Thank you,

Dan

I had issued with the heatbed on the MK4S that I dismantled: the temperature was 52°C when I dialed in 60°C. This problem is now also showing in the Core One+ as it uses the same heatbed. I saw that there seems to be no calibration feature available.

There is no error. Selftest is just fine. But the temperature (measured with two different infrared thermometers) is significantly too low, leading to significant warping of larger PLA items (like boxes). I can circumference the problem by dialing in 75°C instead of 60° but I do not like these kinds of workarounds as updates in settings requires me to transfer this to the new Filament settings.

Anyone else experiencing this and has a solution? Thank you!