RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
You don't need to change it in the settings. You have to use the filament lever which is switched.
Changing the wires it needed to put the sensor in upside down. Same as described in the Bondtech manual.
RE:
Hi rinkel,
I forgot that I did reverse the VCC and GND wires on the filament sensor when I installed the Bondtech IFS extruder (before the the Bear conversion). Filament sensor was working properly with the Bondtech. With the Bear upgrade, I am using the Bear EXXA setup and did mirror everything. I assume somehow the Bear Extruder's filament sensor lever isn't working properly even with all parts mirrored for the Mini Bear. With the filament inserted, the sensor lever moves out to block the IR gate, but the system reports sensor value to be 0. Without filament inserted the sensor value is 1. I assume 1 should be with filament inserted and thus logic is reversed. I tried reversing the polarity of the filament sensor wires but the sensor value just becomes stuck 0 with or without filament inserted. Could this be a Bear Extruder's filament sensor lever's orientation being incompatible?
Thanks
Posted by: @rinkel
You don't need to change it in the settings. You have to use the filament lever which is switched.
Changing the wires it needed to put the sensor in upside down. Same as described in the Bondtech manual.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
Never really understood why the Mini is reversed, and not the same as the Mk3. Would make everything much easier.
Which lever did you use? The inverted one should reverse the working.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
I printed the reversed/mirrored Bear Extruder stl file for the filament sensor, along with all the other stl's, and assumed that it should have worked...
Never really understood why the Mini is reversed, and not the same as the Mk3. Would make everything much easier.
Which lever did you use? The inverted one should reverse the working.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
There appears to be an option in the firmware to reverse the filament logic. Looks like custom firmware is the solution with my setup...
I printed the reversed/mirrored Bear Extruder stl file for the filament sensor, along with all the other stl's, and assumed that it should have worked...
Never really understood why the Mini is reversed, and not the same as the Mk3. Would make everything much easier.
Which lever did you use? The inverted one should reverse the working.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
If you're going to fork it, can you please enable M500 😀
I was thinking about doing something similar.
Would be nicer if it was in the custom menu though.
But i don't think you need to customize it. You need the inverted filament lever.
Which extruder are you using?
I also created a stock one, it has the inverted lever included. You can find it on printables.
There appears to be an option in the firmware to reverse the filament logic. Looks like custom firmware is the solution with my setup...
I printed the reversed/mirrored Bear Extruder stl file for the filament sensor, along with all the other stl's, and assumed that it should have worked...
Never really understood why the Mini is reversed, and not the same as the Mk3. Would make everything much easier.
Which lever did you use? The inverted one should reverse the working.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
I'm using the Bear Extruder and also its corresponding X-Axis parts from here -- https://guides.bear-lab.com/c/95jghwzvw9l46s3g
I mirrored the necessary parts for the Mini and I'm not sure if simply mirroring the the filament sensor lever from the Bear Extruder is sufficient.
I'm kind of thinking if my filament sensor may be broken. I did some more testing just now with the black and red wires reversed (like the Bondtech IFS extruder) and when passing a credit card to block/unblock the IR gate, the sensor values don't change and remains at 0. However with the sensor wired in its original order, ie red to VCC, black to GND, the sensor works fine. But the filament sensor was working just fine before I started the Bear conversion... so I'm thinking perhaps the sensor is broken from my plugging/unplugging and toying with it...
If you're going to fork it, can you please enable M500 😀
I was thinking about doing something similar.
Would be nicer if it was in the custom menu though.But i don't think you need to customize it. You need the inverted filament lever.
Which extruder are you using?
I also created a stock one, it has the inverted lever included. You can find it on printables.There appears to be an option in the firmware to reverse the filament logic. Looks like custom firmware is the solution with my setup...
I printed the reversed/mirrored Bear Extruder stl file for the filament sensor, along with all the other stl's, and assumed that it should have worked...
Never really understood why the Mini is reversed, and not the same as the Mk3. Would make everything much easier.
Which lever did you use? The inverted one should reverse the working.
RE:
Ah, i see. That one has a different extruder.
The one i mirrored is the Original Prusa R6, no idea which one is better, since i don't use it anymore.
A bit too late, but you can find it Here
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
Hello, first time poster and long, long, time lurker here. I have purchased the Blurolls kit and printed the motion/structural parts from Pearch.3d. Looking forward to building the printer out with the dual z-stepper supported x-axis, as that has been a large time sink - constantly readjusting that axis to ensure bed level offsets are as minimized as possible. I mostly make parts through parametric modeling software and so I need reliability, accuracy and precision out of the printer - so, I'm led to believe and hope that this Mini Bear modification can provide just that.
My questions to the Mini Bear community:
- I'm interested in the Bondtech LGX & Mosquito for Prusa i3 hot end/extruder combo with accompanying x-axis carriage. I see almost everyone referring to the mirrored x-axis carriage for the bear extruder - is the above-linked assembly incompatible with the Mini Bear mod?
- Alternatively, I am looking for some testimonials on their specific hot ends and what their alternative recommendations would be.
Thanks
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
Hi, the commercially available prusa kit wont work as the probe is on the wrong side for the mini.
Print the parts from the github mirrored and buy the lgx / mosquito yourself. Its that simple 😋
RE:
Well, i created a remix for the LGX shortcut and published it on printables, but marked it back to draft.
The reason is that because of the pinda offset, the probe will measure off the bed and destroy your printbed.
I also created a start.gcode for this, but if you forget to run itm your sheet will be toast.
This is my Mini Bear with the LGX Mosquito Shortcut.
Edit:
My mistake, thought it was about the shortcut.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
After some more research and deliberation - I ended up opting for the Triangle Labs Dragon ST and the Triangle Labs Dual Drive Extruder (Mirrored) as these two are cost-effective, supplied with PA-GF printed parts that touch the hot end to mount, compatible with each other thanks to the E3D groove mount built into the extruder and additionally compatible with my existing array of E3D nozzles (TC, bridge master, etc.).
While these individual components seem pretty ideal in regard to price and specification - I'm having trouble determining how to mount this appropriately.
Does anyone in the community have a similar configuration to show?
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
And another update in upgrading the bear:
The x-axis is now mgn9h, but will upgrade soon to mgn12.
Designing the holders for mgn12 now.
As you can see i wanted to use the rod at first, but decided against it since it is stable enough this way.
Since i use the LGX, i needed more room for the mgn and had to move the rail a bit upwards, lot of work but eventually not needed.
So, does it make better prints?
No, but much more quiet.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
Not sure how dead this thread is but im looking for some help. Purchased a blurolls kits for the mini bear, all went together just fine but it seems something is off in Y axis, it travels too far and the pinda probe with hit the cover for the heatbed wiring causing the hotend to crash into the bed. Ive tried both alignment helpers and neither one of them seem to make a difference, they both seem to cause the crashing. Is the 3rd party y carriage that far out of spec that the distance of where the linear bearings sit are to close together causing the Y carriage to over travel outside of the build plate? I can not figure this out to save my life, what am i doing wrong?
RE:
My Blurolls kit did the same but I used the original Y carriage. For me, the X axis had to be moved forward towards the front of the printer to prevent the collision with the heat bed wire cover in the back. I also cut down the build plate stoppers (to about same height as the top half of heat bed wire cover, IIRC was about 3 or 4mm ) to prevent any potential collision as well. I forget which alignment helper stl I found to be the correct distance, but I remember it was 81mm from the rear part of frame (parallel to the X axis) to the vertical extrusions.
Hope this helps
Not sure how dead this thread is but im looking for some help. Purchased a blurolls kits for the mini bear, all went together just fine but it seems something is off in Y axis, it travels too far and the pinda probe with hit the cover for the heatbed wiring causing the hotend to crash into the bed. Ive tried both alignment helpers and neither one of them seem to make a difference, they both seem to cause the crashing. Is the 3rd party y carriage that far out of spec that the distance of where the linear bearings sit are to close together causing the Y carriage to over travel outside of the build plate? I can not figure this out to save my life, what am i doing wrong?
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
Thank you so much for the reply!
Ok good I thought I was going crazy, weird how no others have had this problem? What would be the difference then the extrusion them self? I’m not sure I know what you are talking about the “build plate stoppers” but if I can measure 81mm and it works that would be awesome. Man this thing has drove me nuts for a month. I just can’t seem to find the difference in why it doesn’t work.
RE:
Glad to be of help! The stl file for the Z axis alignment helper is from Tomson ( https://www.printables.com/model/68537-mini-bear-remix-and-spoolholder-and-filament-feede/files). It's toward the bottom of the file list. The build plate stoppers I'm referring to are the 2 screws that stick up (at the back edge of the heat bed) and aligns the build plate to the heat bed. When I was running the self-test after assembling my Mini Bear, the hot end kind of barely scraped the tops of the stoppers, so I just took a dremel to cut them down a bit shorter to prevent major damage to the tool head. But if you re-align the Z axis uprights you may not need to touch the stoppers at all.
Thank you so much for the reply!
Ok good I thought I was going crazy, weird how no others have had this problem? What would be the difference then the extrusion them self? I’m not sure I know what you are talking about the “build plate stoppers” but if I can measure 81mm and it works that would be awesome. Man this thing has drove me nuts for a month. I just can’t seem to find the difference in why it doesn’t work.
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
Oh yeah of course those stoppers duh, haha see cant even think straight anymore! Ok ill try and align it with that helper and see if it fixes this issues. I really want this to work because i love my mk3s bear! it prints so beautifully! Again thank you for your reply and help
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
You can also reset the start position in gcode. I had to do this anyway because i use the LGX extruder.
From my printer start-gcode:
M851 Y14 ;Y offset for bed leveling, needed for LGX
M206 Y-2.0 ; Y offset for printing, since it seems to print the prem line off bed
Oh yeah of course those stoppers duh, haha see cant even think straight anymore! Ok ill try and align it with that helper and see if it fixes this issues. I really want this to work because i love my mk3s bear! it prints so beautifully! Again thank you for your reply and help
RE: Prusa Bear Mini Mk3s
Ah I didn’t think about shifting it with gcode, but for whatever reason mine seems to be off about .250 of an inch or so. That’s why I’m just not understanding where the difference is. Even after using both alignment helpers still that far off.
I’ll try some start gcode and see if i can get it closer! Thank you so much!