Ich habe jetzt leider schon mehrfach das Problem gehabt, dass der Drucker (MK4S mit MMU) nach gewisser Zeit (6% bis 35%) einfach pausiert "Parke".

Egal ob in der App oder am Drucker, er lässt sich nicht neu laden oder sonst wie weiter nutzen. Geht nur Reset. Leider dann der Druck zum Verwerfen.

Würde mich um Antwort und Hilfe freuen.

LG Florian

I've been trying to print a fairly simple 2x3 Gridfinity bin in PETG, but I can't get rid of the warping that occurs during cooldown.

My setup:

• Prusa Core One+
• Prusament PETG (tested Orange, White, and Anthracite), dried
• Satin sheet

The print itself goes perfectly. The issue only starts once the bed turns off. During the cooldown phase, the edges of the part lift and warp upward. I even switched to PLA on the smooth sheet to rule out the filament, but the result is the same.

What I've tried so far:

• PLA instead of PETG, on both smooth and satin sheets
• Cleaning the plates with fragrance-free dish soap and hot water
• Bed temperature sweep from 55°C to 90°C in 5°C steps
• Nozzle temperature sweep from 240°C to 265°C in 5°C steps
• 3D Lac on the bed
• Reducing print speed to 80 mm/s and 40 mm/s to let temperatures stabilize
• Printing with the door open and closed
• Covering the printer with a blanket after the print finished
• A custom G-code that ramps the bed down by 5°C every 5 minutes post-print

At this point I'm out of ideas. It's such a simple part... any suggestions would be hugely appreciated.

I have a prusa mini with a bondtech extruder. Everything else is stock. It prints very well outside of that large gap at the seam of my prints, see picture attached.

I print with polymaker PLA polyterra matte black, on a 0.4mm nozzle.

I've read that this might be cause by a too long retraction so I changed it to 1.5mm compared to stock but that did not seem to change anything. I adjusted retraction speed to 35mm/s as well but no luck.

I've also tried to change the seam distance percentage (lowering from 15% to 0), again no change observed.

Could anybody give me advice on what to try next, I'm fairly new to 3d printing and so far I'm not able to figure this one out.

I would prefer a bulge that I could sand at the seam rather than a gap :-)

Thanks a lot in advance,

I unloaded and reloaded filament (PETg) cleared the bowden tube, heated the hot end to 285 for 30 minutes - cleared all filament

Reloaded the PETg the extruder is clicking - I adjusted the 2 set screws, but still clicking 

Any ideas

This was built from the kit, not preassembled.

Any ideas?

1.  When I peeled the backing off the anti-vibration feet, quite a bit of the adhesive clung to the backing instead of the feet.  I wasn't too worried.  But once I got the printer upright, I discovered that it wobbles from the front right corner to the rear left.  I checked that it's not the table.  If I rotate the printer 90 degrees, it still wobbles to the same feet.  It's as though there's a discrepancy in the thickness of the feet on the order of a millimeter or two.  I'm shimming it for now.  Suggestions?

2.  When and how am I supposed to install the door handle?  The guide implies that it's pre-installed, but mine was not.  It was included along the bottom edge of the shipping carton.  The door and handle have small holes suggesting they should be bolted together, but the handle has some foam tape covering two of those holes and there don't seem to be any bolts.  The exposed side of the tape is mildly tacky.  Was that double-sided tape intended to hold the handle to the acrylic door panel?

3.  Should I be concerned that the cardboard wraps that hold the print head in position for shipping weren't placed as shown in the guide?  The guide shows the head in the center with a cardboard wrap on either side.  On my printer, the cardboard wraps were both on the left side, and the print head was (almost) all the way to the right.  Also, when I opened the door, the wraps fell out.  They weren't secured with the tabs through the slots.

4.  The screws that hold the LCD module to the front bezel are not hex-cap screws as indicated in the guide.  They appear to be torx head.  Fortunately, the kit includes a T10 wrench that seems to fit them.  But only the one on the left will tighten down.  The one on the right turns and turns without ever cinching down on the bezel.  The tension in the left screw seems sufficient.  Should I be concerned?

I’ve been trying to print various objects using ASA. I don’t have major issues with small objects, but with medium to large prints I experience significant warping.

I’m using Prusament ASA with my Core One. With the default Prusament profile, I encounter several problems, so I’ve tried adjusting the settings. However, a small amount of warping still appears at the corners of the objects.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to resolve this issue?

I’ve uploaded the .3mf project so you can review the settings.

fan structure.3mf

Thanks in advance for your help.

I’ve repeated the installation process more than 20 times, each time unpairing the camera from the printer and resetting it to factory settings, but the result is always the same.

Has anyone encountered this issue or found a solution?Buddy3D