Improving air flow around nozzle  

Splicing / Printing / Alternative filament

That's the way I thought that I could get the fans to work, but then thought... there must be an easier and much cleaner way of doing that!

That also what I thought about the Printing... this should be such a simple thing.. but for some reason tis not playing ball.. and I cant figure out for the life of me what's going on.

I'm using the eco-pla from 3djake.. they have a great selection of colours to print from... but if someone can recommend a better alternative which a great colour selection... I would very much appreciate it!

Ive been trying all those things as well... Im running out of ideas fast!!

ECO PLA

Is that a 3D Jake made filament or by another manufacturer?

Posted by: @manny-2

That's the way I thought that I could get the fans to work, but then thought... there must be an easier and much cleaner way of doing that!

That also what I thought about the Printing... this should be such a simple thing.. but for some reason tis not playing ball.. and I cant figure out for the life of me what's going on.

I'm using the eco-pla from 3djake.. they have a great selection of colours to print from... but if someone can recommend a better alternative which a great colour selection... I would very much appreciate it!

Ive been trying all those things as well... Im running out of ideas fast!!

Eco-PLA

I think its one of theirs

Slicer

Maybe i should stop using the Prusa slicer and go with Cura if thats the better option? what slicers do people use?

Im also wondering what PLA people go with?

I use 3DJake as they give a great selection of colours that im really into... but now im doubting the quality! first ill try this new slicer

having another look at the model and settings you are trying, i would say try with another filament first.

Use prusaslicer with default settings (0.6 nozzle with 0.3/0.2 layer or 0.4 nozzle with 0.15/0.2 layer) and it should handle those overhangs absolutely fine to be honest. 

Also, if there is a lack of cooling, that vase should have good overhangs on the back and bad ones on the front. 

Unknown

Don't know, sorry

Do a google search

Posted by: @lynn

do a google search "Noctua NA-SYC2 UK"

I found them at

https://skinflint.co.uk/noctua-na-syc2-a1116463.html

settings / mods

I tried printing an old model of something else and it was doing something similar to that!! So I went back to the Generic PLA settings that the slicer offers and that seems to be working a much better..not perfect but much better.. although Im not sure why unless someone knows what the different settings are?

Im using the 0.6mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, 1.1 extrusion width and 1.1 extrusion multiplier... is that what you mean?

Also comparing the back and the front of the model it is better on the back where the fan blows then on the front when it doesnt reach... so im waiting on a couple of parts to change the position of the fan to add a shroud.

Thanks Lynn... I think that ill be buy what you suggested and a second fan from prusa (unless there is a better suggestion?) and adding that to try and give a full 360 cooling

Suggestion

This is another inexperienced suggestion as I'm rather new to printing but have had similiar issues.

I had similiar issues with 0.6 nozzle on thin walls and overhangs. Why not try using your 0.4 nozzle ensuring you calibrate live-z precisely. A thinner line width "could" potentially mean that the overhang layers have less protrusion at each line, therefore cool and solidify better.

If it helps at all, I've been using prusament. Had to dry out my PETG because it's been raining a lot here, switched to PLA and it still bubbled a bit and overhangs weren't great so I dried that too. Now have had drastically better prints combined with slowing down for the overhangs and nozzle change. A model that was doing my head in and sent me down a path of adjusting retraction settings etc, turned out perfect when I decided "screw this let's start from scratch" and just used stock settings with above criteria after cleaning, drying, slowing, and smaller nozzle.

Haha I do hope you find a solution!

Second fan

Placed order for the second fan, perhaps that will help. All fan shrouds seem to leave at least one direction without airflow, so with RHD shroud and another fan blowing from original position (back) I might get the best cooling from mini? We'll see.

second fan connection

ok sweet... yea i was thinking that as well.. the question is how are you going to hook it all up?

Hook up

Isn’t that always the question?

Posted by: @manny-2

ok sweet... yea i was thinking that as well.. the question is how are you going to hook it all up?

RE: second fan connection

There already was discussion on how to wire these. Haven't looked yet, but parallel wiring is likely the way to go. I'm able to solder, I have multimeter(s) and even few more costly equipment not needed for connecting fans. I need to take a look, but it would be nice to have these so that I can disconnect them one by one without soldering iron. The question is rather can I fit everything nicely inside the original electronic box, or do I need to bring a Y-cable out of the box and conect the fans on it.

Prusa Mini - second hotend fan...

A possibility to install a second fan on the Prusa Mini:

(original Mini heatsink)

(Mk3 heatsink - hotend)

(wiring diag. )

wbr,

Karl

Prusa Mini - second hotend fan...

I understand the logic of all of the wiring, but the problem for me is doing it practically... I dont have the tool and wouldnt know how to actually do it or connect it. 

someone said to me that this could be an option, what do you think?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KG8KCK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A38F5RZ72I2JQ&psc=1

RE: Prusa Mini - second hotend fan...

If you do not have the necessary tools (soldering iron, crimping pliers...), then this is probably the best option for you. The Noctua connector is not 100% compatible with the fan connector, but it should still work:

wbr,

Karl

not 100%

Can I ask why it isnt 100%. is that the connection that youre using for your fan?

RE: not 100%

As said, but still should work.

wbr,

Karl

RE: Suggestions

End of the day, even if you don't have a soldering iron, you can always splice, wrap the wire, and electrical tape to 'test' first THEN invest in the right tools to do a proper job.

But before we even get there, was wondering if you've tried exhausting all the basic options before going down this rabbit hole?

I don't mean to sound patronising or rude as I'm quite new to the hobby also, but have personally gone down too many rabbit holes - even considering a new hotend before realising i've missed a basic step or just had a bad model for the materials/nozzle/speeds I was printing at.

Have you tried using a different PLA altogether (maybe just a regular one that isn't eco branded) and also tried that same model on an 0.4 nozzle re-sliced with default filament, printer, and print settings? (also turning fan speed to 100% from within the printer mid-print)

I've had many models print badly on 0.6 vs 0.4, spent hours tuning only to find that it prints absolutely perfect in PLA, printed a PLA sliced model in PETG by accident, or even forgotten to re-adjust z-height after changing nozzles.

All super basic information I know, but I feel that when I went back to basics and covered all bases from scratch, I had better results again without having to do something as drastic as picking a new slicer.

Are you having similiar issues with another model?

RE: Improving air flow around nozzle

Got my second fan yesterday, not hooked it up yet. Likely I just solder it parallel with the original for now, and look for suitable connectors later. Noctua Y-cable looks like a plan B for me.