Bondtech Heatbreak any good?  

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

@japu
Sorry, but I did not see your question.  It is probably too late for you now but for future readers I used the higher temperature, more expensive blue tubing.  

It is still going strong without major issues  I did have a minor half clog (Some filament still came out) so I did a cold pull and that fixed it.  

I think this was caused by a very cheap roll of filament and/or letting the filament sit in the extruder at temperature after a print finished while I was answering some emails.  Since then I have been careful to unload the filament when I am finished and have not had a reoccurrence of the partial clog.  

This has all been with PLA.  Next up is some PETG  

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

Simply put, it's been amazing.  I also Installed the Bondtech Extruder upgrade and I would never go back to stock.

My only problem was initially I did not read the end of the install instructions and did not update my Gcode in PrusaSlicer.  It pays to read the entire instructions.  Once corrected, printing on the Mini has become a joy.

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

I have ordered bondtech heatbreak and extruder.  Can't wait for it to arrive

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

Posted by: @pinkie-pie

Well

I had different experience with bondtech heatbreak - it sure fixed the clogging issue but created a more serious one at the same time.

Jamming and inconsistent extrusion . I didn't managed to fix it , you could see it clearly when printing parts with supports , you could see a small "lagging" where for a few mm the nozzle was not extruding and then making a small blop of filament.

After weeks of trying and talking with support - I replaced the heatbreak with original one and just ordered a proper length (43.3mm) PTFE tube from the shop, In fact I ordered 3 of them to be sure.  After this I don't have any problems at all, no clogging or inconsistent extrusions.

It looks like I have exactly the same problem described here: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/strange-extrusion-problem-using-bondtech-extruder-and-heat-break-on-prusa-mini/

Have you ever found a solution for the strange blops of filament that Bondtech heat break introduces !?!

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

If I fit just the Prusa Mini Bondtech Heatbreak kit https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-heat-break-for-prusa-mini/   but not the Bondtech extruder,   is it necessary to change any settings, or will the printer run fine with the same settings as with my OEM heatbreak?

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

Posted by: @stinkypete

If I fit just the Prusa Mini Bondtech Heatbreak kit https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-heat-break-for-prusa-mini/   but not the Bondtech extruder,   is it necessary to change any settings, or will the printer run fine with the same settings as with my OEM heatbreak?

As per the step by step guide.
add M301 P13.54 I0.98 D46.58 to the start G-code in the slicer before the ; intro line.

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

It's only a setting to calibrate the heaterblock settings, just do a M303 C8 D S210 after you installed the break. then the printer will calculate the M301 settings.

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

To me, it's better solution if G-code is loaded/printed just after printer is turned on. That way, we can also execute first layer calibration properly (if needed) before we start printing. Otherwise, we first need to print some object (which contain necessary G-code) and then make calibration -which is kinda awkward.
For those who are interested... Open text editor (Notepad) and write following lines:

M301 P13.54 I0.98 D46.58 ; Bondtech heatbreak
M117 New PID loaded
M73 P100 R0

-save the file (i.e. as "Bondtech.txt"), change suffix from txt to gcode and copy file to USB stick. Now, every time you turn printer on, just insert stick and "print" this gcode file first. And of course, now you don't need to insert Bondtech PID in slicer anymore.

I hope some find that approach useful.

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

Replaced my stock heatbreak after getting getting clogging issues and have printed probably around 150h since without any problems. Longest print was 25h and it came out flawless. Really wish Prusa would adopt this as standard for the Mini, it would not add more than a few € to the price.
I was initially thinking of getting the Bondtech extruder as well, but since I only print PLA and PETG I´m not sure it would be worth it, even if it is a better overall design.

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

read through the thread and going off what some have said its worked out well with the upgrade , yet others have also said they've reverted back to the original and been fine since.

after purchasing a mk3s+ and having no issues.

I've just purchased 8 (used) mini's so before I go and buy 8 Bondtech Heatbreaks I'm just trying to figure out is it worth the upgrade or is it a case of ' if its not broke then don't try to fix it '. updated the SuperPinda's on all of these also , not sure if this has an effect on the issues with clogging on the standard mini's

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

@boatbuilder

I just wanted to share my experience, becuase you mention the switch to PETG. My Mini is stock except Bondtech Heatbreak. I would get the clogging with PLA and the standard heatbreak in a reproducible way. So I switched, clogging happened more sporadically (mainly filament switches between PLA/PETG/TPU/PLA silk), but far more seldom. When it happened last I pulled out the funniest tip I ever saw (and I have 2 MMU2s running happily) and decided to go for PETG although this printer was specifically bought for PLA. The ugly thing about the Bondtech Heatbreak is not the clogging, it's the inconsistent extrusion that you (that is at least me) can't do a thing about.

Prusament PETG PPE is the filament I am running now, at 260 °C. So, instead of what you would expect, at higher temperature all problems disappear. It has been printing happily non-stop for a week and the extrusion is flawless (extrusion rate 1.00). So upping the temperature and increasing the flow rate changed this printer to something useful. I just mention the extrusion rate as in my experience (that is 50+ kilos of PETG filament) for PETG is best kept at 95-96% on the Prusas. Not with the Bondtech heatbrake though. No idea why. If anyone is interested in how the story goes on, I will give an update.

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

Before you upgrade, you should try to add/change thermal paste. You can use thermal paste for computer/CPU, and don't forget to tightened 3 screw on the heatsink... if the problem is still there, then you go upgrade to bondtech.

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-heaterblock-heatbreak-mini-mini_122769/

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

I'm experiencing a lot of stringing compared to the stock one 🙁 anyone else? how u fixed that?

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

Posted by: @harcos98

I'm experiencing a lot of stringing compared to the stock one 🙁 anyone else? how u fixed that?

 

I think heatbreak itself can't be cause of stringing (assuming heatbreak is mounted properly and correct PID values are used), because stringing is related to other settings (filament temperature, filament type, filament quality, extrusion accuracy, etc.)

I never used stock heatbreak, because I mounted Bondtech during Mini assembly and it works ok for me.

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

@bogdanh

I'm 100% sure about mounting and pid and i printed many things before and after and there is such a big difference.I used the same identical gcode. I printed right before and right after mounting it so the filaments are exactly the same under the same conditions. My last idea is the nozzle because i used to hard clean it with a brass brush and i could possybly have damaged it (i cant see any damages by a close inspection)

RE: Bondtech Heatbreak any good?

Been using the Bondtech for over a year now (forum.prusa3d.com/forum/under-extrusion-over-extrusion-clicking-pilling-inconsistent-layers-clogging-unloading-problems-its-probably-all-the-same-core-issue) on my mini and it is still going strong.  The original Prusa design was just too finicky - everything had to be perfect for it to work well.