Calibration failed! Check the axes and run again.

Everything appears to be in good condition, including belts, leadscrews, rods. PINDA sensor is activating properly. In fact, the error happens when the pinda sensor activates.

I’ve tried multiple firmwares. Same problem. Any ideas? I’m running out of options.

https://blog.prusa3d.com/prusa-core-one-indx-orders-now-open_134915/

I have been at this thing for two days,
The problem:

the printer started to not completely print sliced items, even though it is telling me it is 100% complete with no errors/fault codes. It would happen every third to fourth print on a project that used the same file over again. The prints would be incomplete at various layer heights and now struggles to go past the first 10 layers so the issue is not getting better.

testing and inspecting:
I made sure all file and software are up to date.
Reformatted and renamed stick appropriately.

Resliced the files numerous times, still no change just random incomplete prints a various layer height.

Swap the hot ends as I had a spare, still same problem.

Checked idler arm tension and it is correct as per assembly instruction.

Dismantled printer nozzle (and spare) and gave them a cold pull, as well as the acupuncture needle. Nice and clean.

I have pulled out the ‘planetary gear set out of the nextruder as well as the idler arm. Visually inspected the gears and could not see any damage. Idler arm rollers turn fine the lower idler arm bush is in place and accounted for. I check the motor splines and the face of the motor and the required shim is in place and visible, motor can be manual turn, regrease and meshed planetary gears using the Prusa tool that came with the printer re installed the planetary set. With shamfer on ring in correct irriantation.

re calibrated the whole printer (can’t Hurt) and there really was nothing to adjust. 
Tighten up the nextruder as per instruction during test and everything passed.

i reinstalled the filament and made a test print and everything seemed to work, so I went back to printing project. I completed one print and then failed on the second.

During those the previous prints and tests I had also taken the acrylic covers off and there was not excessive heat so defiantly not heat creep. I also bypassed the side sensor and still had issues so it’s not a bodem tube issue and the filament travels freely up to the nextruder.

Oh yeah forgot I also tested different filaments and still the problem persisted.

Removed nextruder cover again and slowly rotated the gear a little at a time and that all worked, so I know motor turns both manually and electrically via control options.

before putting the cover back on and knowing I had two spares from over updates, I drilled a hole in the centre to see if I could see if the motor was turning during clicking (I got desperate ) it turn out that the clicking occurs because the motor doesn’t rotate and then misses layer and if I open and close the idler arm during print (not recommended) the printer will start extruding again and  few layer later stops turning again. 

I've check wiring , electrically disconnected the motor and reconnected it and no change.

So I am now to the point of askiing all ya all, Does any one know how to test the extruder motor? I have a multi meter but not sure what the values are to look for, I would have assumed that the motor would either work or not work, but I am wondering weather there could be a break down in the winding which makes the motor weak (so to speak)

help…..

cheers

ps project was in Petg and testing was with two different types of petg filament with different colour same brand, as well as pla filament.

Basically I wanted to split this HP@C-complit from here into parts https://www.printables.com/model/864912-hand-crank-for-the-pastamatic/files as object does not work for one of the pieces that consist of several parts which I did not realized until I spit it to parts and had a conflict with paths when slicing.

In this example the axle consist of 3 parts,the other parts could be considered as objects. The axle is the one I had issue with and yes I now understand the difference between parts and objects.

This happened because I sliced the stl file instead of using the 3MF file ( now I understand better why), but still would like to know if it's possible.

 I know I can take the individual files but I am trying to understand prusaslicer better.

In addition:

Could you change a part into an object?

Merge parts to make an object?

First long build up and then calibration steps which I dont understand. 

My problem is that the tool changer can't pick the first hotend it keeps hanging and the arm comes empty forward. 

I loosen the dock pins and both screws and attached it manually and screwed in the upper screw.

After that it happens everytime. I'm tired it now to repeat all this steps everytime and I have to do it 5x.

I'm really disapointed at the moment and can't continue. I expected much more for this money!!!!

I'm trying out PrusaSlicer for the first time.

I'm having difficulty getting my models to slice correctly.

I often use thin gaps to build internal structures, typically around 0.01-0.05mm wide.

PrusaSlicer is filtering out these structures, and I don't know how to stop it from doing that.

Can anyone offer advice on how to do that, or if it is even possible?

Thanks,

C23

I'd plead for an option similar to the 'XY Hole Compensation' paramater in PrusaSlicer. Come on Prusa, it's already Q2 in 2026 and this desire for a hole size compensation feature in PrusaSlicer dates back to before 2020!

I tried google for about 15 minutes, and all I find is other model printers, sometimes other brands.
I have the official lubrication kit, but I can't find the needle ports on the carriage.   I need a photo
or video to show me where to insert the needle into what port?

Thanks in advance for any help, mentoring, guidance.

Neal