It seems from reddit posts most have printed front and back as 2 separate stls and then glued the 2 pieces together.

We're interested in printing many as free giveaways and gluing them together could be time consuming on a work project that has a deadline of 2 days ago. Plus, we worry re: glue and the public not always being the best bet.

Has anyone printed a 2 sided coin by standing the coin up vertical on the bed to print on both sides?

Appreciate you sharing your experiences and what you've learned from them.

Thank you!

Does this happen to anyone else?

A brief story of how I got involved in this topic:

I work at a dental lab, and we received an SL1S printer. Everything was going well until it came time to clean the finished models. The original spatula is sharp as a knife, and when you (unintentionally) make sudden movements to cut the models off the supports, the spatula slips and cuts your hand. That’s exactly how I sliced open my palm. I showed the cut to the neural network, and it suggested I switch to Wham Bam flexible magnetic plates. Without checking anything, I immediately ordered three of them.

As soon as they arrived, I opened the same neural network and asked for installation instructions—and that’s when the real fun began. It started telling me about some spacers, that I needed to take apart the printer, design a replacement part, print it on another printer, and other illogical advice. I opened the official Wham Bam website and found out that there are no such plates for the SL1S at all, and the developer strongly advises against using them with this type of printer. 😂😂😂 

After that, I found this thread on the forum, which plunged me into even deeper despair. https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-sl1-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/wham-bam/I also want to point out how differently people treat their equipment. I worry about micro-scratches on the screen and replace it, while other people (literally) use the printer tray as an anvil. 😂😂 It’s certainly none of my business, but it really shocked me. That’s the background. But I didn’t give up and decided to give it a try (since I already had these pads on hand), and here’s my experience:

In short, I didn’t do anything special at all, and the result surprised me.

1. First, I degreased the table and stuck the magnet on. It’s impossible to stick it on perfectly because it doesn’t fit the size. The guy from the forum I mentioned earlier as an example decided to cut it to size—he sawed, bent, and pressed it—and I think that was his main mistake, since the table surface likely has some kind of coating or finish (like on the MK4S table). I taped down the edges (flaps) that stick out with regular clear tape so they wouldn’t peel off.

2. CRITICAL POINT. DON’T DO ANYTHING STUPID. Both the neural network, online commenters, AND EVEN THE MANUAL ITSELF insist that you install some 3mm spacers. THE SL1S PRINTER DOES NOT NEED A SPACER. There is simply nowhere to put it, and there is NO REASON TO. When you perform calibration, the printer responds to the pressure sensor and then sets a new zero point.

2.1 CALIBRATION. This is the only thing you need to do, and it’s the most important part.

My calibration went perfectly, with no surprises. In fact, when you loosen the bolt at the very beginning of the calibration, your table is in a semi-free state. So there’s still a centimeter of travel left (UP), meaning there’s zero chance of hitting or pushing the build matrix.

3. Set the dimensions of the new virtual plate/table in two clicks. You can skip this step, but make sure not to place the models on the edge where there is no surface.

4. I’m running the first models. An hour later, as you can see, everything turned out perfectly. Don’t pay attention to the artifact—the hole on the side—it’s a CAD bug. The models came out perfectly. I used “Prusament Resin Flex Gingiva Mask” and the default print settings (0.1 mm, fast). Also, out of habit, before printing, I degreased the (already fresh and new) surface of the Wham Bam magnetic pad with 97% alcohol.

After a while, I ran the second batch. It turned out just as great.

That’s basically it! I didn’t do anything out of the ordinary, not even what’s written in the instructions. I just attached it and calibrated it. So I can confidently recommend this product to you. The spatula is now in the trash. I’ll keep you updated if any issues come up later. Feel free to reach out for more info—I’ll pass it on to you.

If you found my article helpful and want to show your appreciation, subscribe to my YouTube channel featuring Lo-Fi music, which I just started but plan to fill with music very soon and very frequently. https://www.youtube.com/@AnZMusic-1

Thank you! 

• Step 74 – Installing the CoreXY assembly: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-corexy-assembly_982276#992522
• Step 79 – Fixing the Bed‑Stop: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-corexy-assembly_982276#992752

What I’m seeing:

1. Step 74 The rear Z threaded rod is not centered and actually touches the Bed‑Stop‑Rear. When looking from the front of the printer, the rod touches on the left side.
2. Step 79 I cannot mount the Bed‑Stop‑Rear to the back plate because the holes are misaligned by about 1 cm. From the front view, the Bed‑Stop sits too far to the left, so the screw cannot reach the hole in the back plate.
3. CoreXY plate orientation mismatch Comparing my CoreXY plate with the manual photos, the hole under the small triangle is on the opposite side. In the manual, the hole is under the triangle on the left. On my unit, the hole is under the triangle on the right.

My questions:

• Has anyone else encountered this exact combination of issues during assembly?
• Is it possible that I was shipped the wrong CoreXY plate or a different revision?

Thanks in advance!

Sto provando a stampare vari oggetti con Prusament ASA, per quelli più piccoli non ho riscontrato grandi problemi, ma per quelli medio/grandi ho riscontrato un leggero (ma fastidioso) problema di warping. 

Utilizzando il profilo di default per Prusament ASA su Prusa Slicer ho riscontrato vari problemi di warping così ne ho creato uno personalizzato che ha risolto molto il problema ma non del tutto.

Vi condivido il progetto del pezzo che sto provando a stampare:

fan structure.3mf

questo è il fastidioso warping che ancora ottengo su tutti gli angoli

Vi ringrazio in anticipo 😀 

I tried printing with ABS, but it started to sag/warp at an angle and eventually got knocked off by the extruder.

I’m still pretty new to 3D printing, so I’d really appreciate any advice on how to fix this.

I know ASA would probably be the better option, but for now I’m stuck with ABS.

The model I’m printing is from Printables. It’s the “2021–2024 Chevy Suburban Traffic Advisor Light Bar Mount.” Normally I’d blame the model… but unfortunately, I’m the one who designed it 😂

I am trying to print a "tall" object on my MK4s on 6.4.0 with a 0.6 Obxidian nozzle and PETG-CF and it, again, failed mid print. It was upgraded from a MK4 three months ago. The first print failed after 3 hours with a 2-cm layer shift. The second one had a first small shift after about 3 hours and a large one 5 hours in. See the second print in pictures as well as the Y-Belt.

What I did between the first and second print based on other topics on this:

- Adjust Y-Belt tension (it was slightly too tight)

- Adjust X-Belt tension (it was slightly too tight)

- Checked all screws around the y -  assembly and heatbed sled. Some needed about a quarter turn.

- The pulley on the y motor was and is tightly fixed

- Replaced USB stick with industrial sd-card in case there was a corruption

- Reduced travel acceleration from 4000mm/s² to 3000mm/s²

- Manually moving the heatbed back to front feels smooth

I am a bit at a loss what else it could be. So far its 25€ of filament wasted. The surface of the belt looks a bit funny compared to the x-belt, but the teeth seem ok.

Does anyone have any recommendations?