Thanks all for the help

The ASA separated from the plate hence the missing top. The ASA was dried for 6 hrs at 70C. This reinforces for me that the issues I'm seeing are not due to moisture in the pa12-cf and are instead due to an issue with the printer. I need to do some more research to figure out what that may be, unless anyone has suggestions

Posted by: @samfo

I understand that moisture is the go-to diagnosis for nylon print issues, but I just want to emphasize that this was printing flawlessly a month ago using the same filament, dry-box setup, and settings. And it has progressively gotten noticeably worse. You can see it in the photos I included in the OP, and also in these:

If this was truly just a wet filament problem I would have expected to see it more consistently over the course of this production, but that hasn't been the case at all

I've printed enough nylon that when I see your photos, all I can think of is "wet filament". But certainly, this could possibly be mechanical as well. To rule it out, try printing the part with PETG etc as a comparison. 

If this was truly just a wet filament problem I would have expected to see it more consistently over the course of this production, but that hasn't been the case at all

Posted by: @jan-d-slay

Jürgen's point about not relying on RH inside the dryer is something I discovered. Some nylon's can absorb up to 10% of it's own weight in water. The filament is water logged, yet the hydrometer "says" 10%. The only way I know for sure is to weigh the spool once an hour and if the weight becomes asymptotic (doesn't change) then it's probably dry enough. This is why I've moved away from PA6 (which is a plastic water sponge) and print mostly PPA which is more forgiving. 

That sounds very logical and is safer than leaving the humidity kit in a closed box.

Thank you for filling this gap in my knowledge.

Final question from me: What kind of scale do you use? How many decimal places does this type of measurement you described require?

Very interesting topic!

This is what I use: Digital Kitchen Scale it's supposed to be accurate to 1/10 gram so that's good enough for me. First you weigh the spool before putting it in the dryer to get a base line. I then dry it for 6 hrs, weigh it, then 1 hr later weigh it again. If it hasn't changed much (or at all) then (to me) it's good enough. 

To the point of relative humidity display in a dry box, that it is just measuring the equilibrium between the amount of moisture in the box's atmosphere (assuming it's sealing) and the spool of filament. In other words, it's a measure how dry the air is in the box but not how dry the filament actually is. The air RH is a function of the desiccant (is it still doing it's job), how well sealed is the box and how slowly moisture is being pulled from the filament which is in turn a function of ambient temperature of the box. The desiccant pulls the filament and air to an equilibrium but in the case of Nylon that is hydroscopic this can take days or weeks even. 

If you box says 10%, what does that mean? It means the air is very dry, moisture won't be entering into the filament. If the filament is already dry it will continue to stay dry. Especially though for Nylons is doesn't guarantee that the filament will be dry when you pull it out of the box. 

If your box reads 25% it means the air is not dry enough for long-term storage, moisture will get pulled into the filament from the surrounding air. For PLA this is fine, PETG, PC, ASA probably OK. PA6/TPU definitely not OK. Doesn't mean though that your filament is wet. Just means you can't trust it to be dry. 

One thing I've noticed. If your dry box reads 10%, you put filament in the box and you see the RH creeping up then the filament is still off-gassing moisture meaning it's not dry enough. One trick I played around with (before I started weighing) is after the dryer put the filament in a dry box without desiccant then watch the RH over 1-2 days. If it's between 10-15% then it's dry and if > 20% then the filament is probably still wet. 

Jürgen's point about not relying on RH inside the dryer is something I discovered. Some nylon's can absorb up to 10% of it's own weight in water. The filament is water logged, yet the hydrometer "says" 10%. The only way I know for sure is to weigh the spool once an hour and if the weight becomes asymptotic (doesn't change) then it's probably dry enough. This is why I've moved away from PA6 (which is a plastic water sponge) and print mostly PPA which is more forgiving. 

That sounds very logical and is safer than leaving the humidity kit in a closed box.

Thank you for filling this gap in my knowledge.

Final question from me: What kind of scale do you use? How many decimal places does this type of measurement you described require?

Very interesting topic!