Why did the shift occur?
Why did the cats' heads shift on the test print? Thank you
RE: Why did the shift occur?
What Filament are you using in the slicer. I was having similar issues and made sure that everything was the way everyone else recommended (avoid crossing perimeters being off, etc.). What I found was switching from using the Overture PETG profile to the Prusament PETG profile, the issue went away.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
Almost impossible to say... not enough information. Were you present for the entire print? Did you notice extra plastic at the purge line? Wondering if the printer did a reset and missed it when redoing calibration.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
I was there. It was the first PLA print from Prus. I heard some strange noise at the time. Maybe a jam or something like that. I'll keep an eye on it.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
Stab in the dark: Did you turn "avoid crossing perimeters" on (in PrusaSlicer's Print Settings > Layers and Perimeters > Quality settings)? There is apparently a known software bug which causes the slicer to occasionally generate rapid direction changes at high speed in this mode. These cause largely reproducible layer shifts.
If that's not it, as @tim-24 said: We would need more information. First thing you should try is whether the error is reproducible or was a one-off occurrence. If you can repeat it, it would be good if you can share at least your slicer settings, or your project file (.3mf file).
RE: Why did the shift occur?
I have everything set to factory settings. I'm just getting to know 3D printing. I'll try printing again and let you know. I'd be happy to change the settings if you can advise me.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
Very unlikely a setting issue, but hey, it's a 3d printer: strange things happen. Generally, the extruder bumps into something (more often an open frame printer); but the Core One also has a couple of quirks where is resets itself in the middle of a print. Static builds up on the belts - tho usually on larger prints. But when this happens the printer restarts and continues. I think I read there is a known issue where the restart position is sometimes off causing a layer shift. A clue is extra filament on top the first purge, or straight strands laying around on the bed.
Other things are to know: where did you get the gcode file for the print? Did you slice the part or get a finished gcode off Printables? Filament in the printer (Galaxy Black) PLA or PETG or ?? Is that a single part (three cats at once) or three print attempts?
RE: Why did the shift occur?
Hello. The test images are from the Prusa database free. I use Prusa start galaxy black filament. PLA. I also printed the keychaing Prusa original and it came out great. I have another question. Does the USB Prusa have to be plugged into the printer? Thank
RE: Why did the shift occur?
Also just discovered there is an issue on Core Ones printing large circles if Slicer has Avoid Crossing Perimeters checked ... probably not what's happening here, but the shift is at a circle.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
Hello. The test images are from the Prusa database free. I use Prusa start galaxy black filament. PLA. I also printed the keychaing Prusa original and it came out great. I have another question. Does the USB Prusa have to be plugged into the printer? Thank
Yes. The printer won’t operate without an USB stick plugged in. It doesn’t have to be the Prusa one specifically but not all brands work and only USB2 seems to be acceptable and only if formatted with Fat32
RE:
I just tested two different USB3 devices, one 3.0, one 3.2, they work fine.
FAT32 is a requirement.
With Windows formatting any device over 32GB as FAT32 is painful, so best to purchase 32GB devices for use with the CoreOne; that said, you can take any device greater than 32GB and erase the volume, create a new volume as 32GB FAT32 and the Core One reads it (though ignoring any second partitions).
RE: Why did the shift occur?
@Hyiger,
To clarify, there may indeed be a requirement for a USB drive to be present if you are printing using the Prusa app (obviously if you are printing from USB 🙂 and I've never used the Prusa app). However, if like me, you are running the printer via the serial interface (Octoprint in my case) there need not be a USB drive installed in the printer.
Regards,
RE: Why did the shift occur?
I have the printer connected to my home network via wifi. I'm getting to know it. I welcome any advice. Thanks
RE: Why did the shift occur?
I have the printer connected to my home network via wifi. I'm getting to know it. I welcome any advice. Thanks
Here's a couple of hard learned lessons:
I still use the USB stick and store files to it; sometimes I'll play and start a print from my desk in another room, but honestly, the first few minutes of a print are the most nerve racking, and nothing beats seeing the print start bad and dealing with it then and there instead of coming back hours later to a major fur ball and hours of clean up. So I like to press the buttons on the panel to get a print started, while the machine is warming up I'll go get a cup of coffee, maybe check mail, then come back to see how it is going. Layer one is the prime indicator. If it is going down smoothly, odds are good the print will finish fine. This basic fact is true of all filament types. Any issues at layer one need to be fixed before walking away.
And yes, a single fingerprint on the print sheet can kill a print. Never touch the print sheets except by the edges or the very extreme two points required to set the back edge V down on the heat bed at the two screws sticking up out of the bed, then slowly lower the front of the sheet making sure it aligns on both sides until the magnets take over.
Soap and water are your friend unless you own an alcohol refinery. A drop of Dawn unscented dish detergent (no hand conditioners) and gallons of flowing hot water is a lot better at removing fingerprint oils than a small pool of alcohol. I use soap and water on all of my print sheets when they need a thorough cleaning. I'll wipe away obvious prints around the edges with alcohol, but avoid wiping anywhere else when doing so. I use to have some great photos of an alcohol clean sheet vs soap and water, no comparison. Never touch the printing surface, ever. Of course you will, but keep telling yourself "DON'T DO THAT!" until you actually avoid trying to pry off parts with your fingers or rest your palm on the surface to sweep off filament dregs. If you have a part that lifts off the bed as it prints, you did that all on your own... lol.
This forum is a great place to ask questions, 90% of what I know about 3d printing came from people here.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
I'm at home on a completely different forum. I've been guiding people to good results there for years. I'm just starting out with 3-D printing and I want to make my own prototypes. Any good advice is appreciated, thank you. Do you think I could use acetone-free brake cleaner to remove the roots of surfaces? I have a liter of it at work. I'm most worried about models of 3D products. I have no experience with 3-D programs. I'll work on learning during the long winter evenings. I have a Core One printer. They also do very good advertising, so I'm curious how it will work. I have it as a hobby, not for professional printing.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
You lost me at using brake cleaner for roots ... good luck in your adventures. 😮
RE: Why did the shift occur?
I was thinking about cleaning the printing plate. Ok alcohol would be ideal.
RE: Why did the shift occur?
I was thinking about cleaning the printing plate. Ok alcohol would be ideal.Metal furniture is always cleaned with this. Stupid idea for a board.
Do you think I could use acetone-free brake cleaner to remove the roots of surfaces?
Possibly but dishwashing detergent (Dawn/Fairy) and HOT water do an excellent job as long as you make sure to dry the print-sheet; eg put it on the printer and warm the bed, to prevent rust.
I have no experience with 3-D programs
There are plenty of threads here comparing and contrasting different software. Download a few free ones and experiment. Once you have found one that suits you you will begin the process of learning how to design for 3D printing which, unsurprisingly, is subtly different from designing for other manufacturing methods. Begin with simple shapes and elaborate with experience.
Cheerio,
RE: Why did the shift occur?
A while back on my MK4S I had issues where I would get a shift like that when sending the file via wifi vs copying the g-code manually to the USB stick. Might be worth a shot?