3D Jake ASA print settings
Hello,
I just can't get the above ASA to print.
The result is already attached for layer 1.
Settings:
Print bed 105°
Nozzle 235° (I've reduced the original settings in increments)
Retraction speed 40 mm/s
Retraction 1.5 mm
I've slowed down the printing process to 70%.
I'm using the satin sheet.
Where am I going wrong?
The only things that are currently printing without errors are PLA and PETG.
Best regards,
Peter
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Hi Peter,
I always use the smooth sheet for ASA and, out of laziness, simply use the Prusament ASA factory settings. The first layer always fits for me, and the rest is also fine for my (rather low 🙂 ) requirements.
Best regards,Günter
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Did you add glue stick on the print bed?
When I print ABS or ASA, I always use glue stick on the bed.
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
You’ll need a brim as well as adhesive depending on the type of build plate you are using. With the satin sheet you need to ensure it is completely free of smudging from finger prints etc.
I’ve had a lot of success printing ASA on the Cryo Glacier plates. I don’t even need glue on that plate. I’ve given up with the Prusa Satin.
- Bob Marley
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Hi,
i never use a glue stick on a satin board.
The filament adheres sufficiently.
It looks like the filament is too liquid.
Best regards
Peter
Did you add glue stick on the print bed?
When I print ABS or ASA, I always use glue stick on the bed.
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Hi,
as you can see, there is a brim of 10mm!
But from then on, when he prints the outline, he starts to smudge.
Best regards
Peter
You’ll need a brim as well as adhesive depending on the type of build plate you are using. With the satin sheet you need to ensure it is completely free of smudging from finger prints etc.
I’ve had a lot of success printing ASA on the Cryo Glacier plates. I don’t even need glue on that plate. I’ve given up with the Prusa Satin.
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Hi,
as you can see, there is a brim of 10mm!
But from then on, when he prints the outline, he starts to smudge.Best regards
Peter
You’ll need a brim as well as adhesive depending on the type of build plate you are using. With the satin sheet you need to ensure it is completely free of smudging from finger prints etc.
I’ve had a lot of success printing ASA on the Cryo Glacier plates. I don’t even need glue on that plate. I’ve given up with the Prusa Satin.
Sorry, I didn't look carefully. I see there is quite a large brim. As @James Kirk pointed out you'll also need an adhesive layer like Magigoo (for example). Also, as mentioned, I don't use Prusa plates anymore. I've had nothing but issues with them. I print everything on the Cryo plate now including lots of ASA recently (I use Overture ASA).
- Bob Marley
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Hi,
but did you think it's a problem of lack of adhesive?
For me it's look like filament is too hot.
Or do you think the filament is coming loose at that point?
Anyway, will look for another plate.
Best regards
Peter
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Hi,
but did you think it's a problem of lack of adhesive?
For me it's look like filament is too hot.Or do you think the filament is coming loose at that point?
Anyway, will look for another plate.
Best regards
Peter
I never printed ASA on the Prusa satin build plate without an adhesive layer. If I didn't I would have even the brim warping off the plate. I also had to make sure the plate was very clean first.
- Bob Marley
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
I concur with using glue on the satin plate for ASA. If the plate is clean and the Z offset is spot on (not always the case, even with the nextruder..) for small parts glue isn't strictly necessary but it helps. I wouldn't know about 3Djake ASA specific settings, 235C fpr the nozzle seems quite low for ASA. I've printed Prusament and Fillamentum ASA using the same temperatures for both brands: nozzle 255C and bed 110C.
For bigger models I prefer the smooth plate AND adhesive ( 3Dlac ).
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Can't really tell from the photo what's going on. I print a lot of ASA, mostly Polymaker, with Prusament ASA settings, on both skin and textured sheet. I concur with others that adding Magigoo or (in my case) Layerneer helps a lot with adhesion.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
OK, will get tomorrow new Cryo Glacier plate and Magigoo for ASA.
We will see 😉
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Hi,
new plate and Magigoo, the same problem.
If he print constant (brim) no problem.
But when he fast move to another point and start print there will be too much filament out of the nozzle.
So isn't it a problem of retraction?
Do i need to set more in my setting (now it is speed 40mm/s and length 1,5mm)?
Best regards
Peter
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Sorry mates,
i am so stupid 😉
I mistakenly set the opposite of retraction. So after i set it correct with 2mm retraction it works fine.
Anyway your hint with new plate and Magigoo was perfect!
Best regards
Peter
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
Glad to see that you fixed the issue.
A retraction of 2mm. is OK for flex filaments but for all the others just 0.4-0.6mm is enough in most cases. If you need more retraction to avoid oozing/stringing, probably that spool should be dried.
Magigoo is great but very expensive for the amount you get on that small tube. I use 3Dlac on spray. Way cheaper than Magigoo and it works very well with most filaments except for PA on PEI surfaces.
RE: 3D Jake ASA print settings
I did several large Overture ASA prints (covering 80-90% of the plate) and didn't need glue. I'm even thinking at this point of replacing PETG with ASA. It just prints better.
- Bob Marley