Prusa3D Forum - Recent Topics

TPE Filaments

Artur5 — Thu, 21 May 2026 09:17:29 +0000

As a sort of small add-on to the excellent and comprehensive document about FDM polymers provided by Hyiger (thanks a lot BTW ) I’m writing my personal experience, so far, with a TPE filament.

Unlike TPU, there isn’t much availability online of TPE filaments. Anway, being rather tired of dealing moisture on TPU I decided to give TPE a try. One of the few well known brands making this stuff is Fillamentum. Two different hardness: Flexfill 90A and Flexfill 96A. Problem is that both seem to be always out of stock at Fillamentum’s own store and also at Filament2print. Therefore, I got the only other TPE that I could actually purchase : Recreus SEBS. It’s a TPE compound rated 90A hardness

My experience so far is very good in some aspects and not so good in others.

-Good :

This filament must be almost hydrophobic. Out of the bag (no pre-dry) it printed with zero stringing, on a pair with dry PLA. Surfaces came smooth and clean, far better than the bulky seams an noticeable layers that I get with TPU. Overhangs don’t drop at all. No problems entangling in the extruders gears or underextrusion after a seven hours print. My first settings were : nozzle temp 245C. Max. vol. speed : 5mm3/s. Cooling fan: 25 to 45% Bed temp: 50C (more on that below ).

-Not so good (or rather bad) :

Bed adhesion seems to be the opposite of TPU, which must be printed with a layer of releasing agent to prevent the model getting stuck to the plate. I found out that Recreus SEBS is very fussy in this matter. Adhesion to the satin plate with the bed at 50C (as with TPU ) is poor. Neither 3Dlac nor Nano Polymer worked well. After a few layers the model got loose from the bed. Using a garolite plate or kapton tape was even worse.

In the end I browsed the web of Recreus and there I found useful information, more complete then the brief data that you can download. Print on a smooth plate (probably a Cryogrip would be OK as well), bed at 75-80C, a LARGE brim, no glue. Print first layer very slowly ( 20mm/s ). With these setting I was able to complete a 7 hour print without issues. Even so, I noticed that the slightest blemish on the PEI surface is a potential problem. because the filament won’t stick there, so I got gaps and bumps in a small area of the first layer.

Fillamentum recommends using Magigoo PP as the best adhesive for their Flexfill TPE. I guess than a dedicated PP plate, like Prusa’s would be good too. As I haven’t Magigoo PP at hand, I couldn’t try it with Recreus SEBS.

Improved Core ONE Fan Shroud?

jonnieZG — Thu, 21 May 2026 07:40:57 +0000

I have noticed a tendency for overhangs facing the chamber doors (the side opposite the fan shroud) to slightly sag, even when using supports. It is not critical, but I see it and it annoys the hell out of me.

If I print the same model rotated by 180°, it comes out fine - but then the issue manifests on the opposing side, if there are some overhangs. This happens even with the chamber door open, so it is not an issue of the environment being too hot, but rather the air not properly reaching the filament on the side facing away from the fan shroud.

I tested this with the stock silicone sock and the stock 0.4 mm HF nozzle across different printing profiles, using various materials and brands. As an experienced Prusa user since the MK2, noob mistakes can be safely ruled out.

The "blowing-on-water" test results in a fairly acceptable pattern, but the issue still manifests during actual prints. (For those unfamiliar, this test involves pouring water into a small bowl and placing it underneath the print head to see where the fan actually blows; ideally, it should show a concentric, circular indentation centered directly underneath the nozzle).

I will post an example photo when I come back home.

Has anyone else noticed this or perhaps designed an improved fan shroud? I haven't found one yet.

Creality CR10 to Prusa MK4S conversion

Joel_Muller — Thu, 21 May 2026 06:59:42 +0000

Hello world.

I got a CR10 and decided to convert it to an MK4S in order to get larger print surface than the MK4S original. Some mechanical adaptations were necessary. The MK4S ugrade kit provided all necessary material to do that. And some prints whith my existing MK4 helped also. Mecanics work fine.

And now I have some difficulties whith the firmware and initial calibration of the axes due to the fact that axes are greater than these in the MK4S.

I'd like to adapt the values (such as Z Axes course ...) set in the original firmware and I have no idea how to do. As the software is open it should be possible.

I wonder if someone had already do that and could provide some help.

Thanks for all

X axis shifting

punkindrublik — Thu, 21 May 2026 05:25:47 +0000

Brand new printer right out of the box (set up properly of course). 2 of the first 3 prints shifted during the print. First layer adhesion was good, so nothing is curling up and blocking the nozzle, so I'm at a loss.
Any ideas on what I should be looking for? TIA

Organic supports printing in mid air!?!?

Sam — Thu, 21 May 2026 02:10:39 +0000

Hi All,

I was trying to print something that previously failed with the default supports due to them being too tall and not having any cross braces (only walls in one x-direction) so I wanted to try organic supports.

It worked well for one or two prints, but this one kept failing, with spaghetti filament going everywhere around the 10th layer.

I could not figure it out, cleaned my nozzle (MK3.9) etc. Then I looked at the slicer...

Take a look at the attached screenshots, as you can see on layer 8 all is ok, then by layer 11 it is printing the supports in mid air!!
Surely this is a bug?

Not sure how to fix, I have attached my slicer version and support settings. basically default apart from choosing organic.

Idea: INDX for single-material multiple-detail-level printing

Patronics — Wed, 20 May 2026 23:52:35 +0000

I know there's been talks of using INDX with multiple nozzle sizes to, for example, have infill printed quickly with a larger nozzle, and external surfaces with a smaller nozzle, but has anyone considered the possibility of using multiple nozzle sizes with the same filament, based on the level of detail needed with specific regions of the printed object? I suppose it could effectively also be set up as if it were a multi-color print, and just using the same filament type on multiple nozzles, but I hope this is a feature that could get some attention and hopefully have a streamlined implementation at some point! It could save a ton of time on large prints that have a few areas that need finer detail, where otherwise the entire print would have to be printed with a smaller nozzle, taking much longer.

(as a very much over-engineering aside, this also has me contemplating the concept of a nozzle-changer that uses the same filament without using multiple spools as input, but that's likely not very practical or necessary, even if fun to contemplate.)

"GCode Sliced for a different printer" no matter what I do.

Lucas — Wed, 20 May 2026 21:07:49 +0000

So I have an MK3S and MMU2S printer and when I send prints to it via Prusa Slicer via the "Send to Printer" button, I always get the "GCode Sliced for a different printer".

What places are these defined and checked and how can I clear it up?

In PrusaConnect it says "Type: Original Prusa i3 MK3S/+" and perhaps that is the mismatch, but how do I change it in there to get all the settings in sync?

I know it's not the biggest deal, but it's driving me a little bonkers.