Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
Ambient room temperature is 22-23. I have the Advanced Filtration kit installed. Takes a long time to get to 50 and it won't go past it. I think for PCCF I really need 60+ but there is no way to reach that with only print bed heating. I've tried adding blanket insulation on the top but it only helps slightly. By the middle of the print I'm at around 52. Is this normal? Seems the max is 55 but I can't see a way to reach that without insulating the entire enclosure. I can speed up the process by using a hair dryer but it won't maintain that temp.
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
What's the ambient temperature in the room ?.
You don't really 60C to print PC, In my non active heated enclosures I never reach 50C and I've been printing PC and PACF for years without problems. Higher temperatures are better ( up to a point ) but you can do quite well at 40-45C.
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
What's the ambient temperature in the room ?.
You don't really 60C to print PC, In my non active heated enclosures I never reach 50C and I've been printing PC and PACF for years without problems. Higher temperatures are better ( up to a point ) but you can do quite well at 40-45C.
22-23 as mentioned in my post. I think I figured it out. At least for the PCCF. I'm not sure a 0.4mm HF nozzle is the right choice. Might try 0.6mm instead (and yes, it's hardened, not brass)
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
I've been printing plenty of PCCF in a LACK enclosure with my Mk4S no problem, and the temperature certainly goes nowhere near 50+ C. With my Core Ones, no problems either.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
I've been printing plenty of PCCF in a LACK enclosure with my Mk4S no problem, and the temperature certainly goes nowhere near 50+ C. With my Core Ones, no problems either.
I think it's really an issue of a layer adhesion problem and not chamber temp. A 0.4mm HF nozzle is probably not the right choice. The print comes out fine but easily snaps across the layers. It's actually worse than PLA. I'll try with a 0.6mm hardened nozzle instead.
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
Is that Prusa PCCF? Ive never had issues with layer adhesion, not on my mk3 either. Anyway, my C1 seem to max out around about 58 degrees on the chamber temp when printing some ASA parts, only insulation i did was to have some bubble plastic just laying on top of the C1. Ive done some probing and the temp close to the bed is quite a bit higher than the sensor aswell, especially in the beginning of the print.
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
Is that Prusa PCCF? Ive never had issues with layer adhesion, not on my mk3 either. Anyway, my C1 seem to max out around about 58 degrees on the chamber temp when printing some ASA parts, only insulation i did was to have some bubble plastic just laying on top of the C1. Ive done some probing and the temp close to the bed is quite a bit higher than the sensor aswell, especially in the beginning of the print.
No, it's not Prusa PCCF which is unfortunately sold out. It's IEMAI Carbon Fiber PC Filament. So either I am under-extruding (have it set for 0.9), the filament is crap or both. I had it in the drier for 8 hrs before attempting a print.
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
I've tried IEMAI PCCF. I've tried everything and ended up throwing it away. It's just god awful. Wait for Prusament PCCF to get back in store, you'll be happy you waited.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/
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I've tried IEMAI PCCF. I've tried everything and ended up throwing it away. It's just god awful. Wait for Prusament PCCF to get back in store, you'll be happy you waited.
Thanks, I've also come to that conclusion. This filament is worse than vanilla PLA. Is there an alternative brand you could recommend in the meantime? I have an application for solar telescope that needs to be very UV and heat tolerant which is why I picked PCCF. Or maybe switch to Prusa PACF instead.
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
How heat tolerant? ASA CF or GF might work.
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
PA-CF looks like an interesting alternative but I have no hands-on experience with it. I just buy a handful of spools of Prusament PC-CF every once in a while when it's available.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
My PC-CF is IEMAI. Being obsessive about drying it, using the Prusament profile with 0.98 extrusion multiplier seems to work OK. It's really quite brittle, meaning a lot of waste when it snaps off. I've printed generally small objects: the belt tensioner parts multiple times, and the ESP32 camera case. No issues with printing. It's cheap, and you get what you pay for, I guess. 🙂
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My PC-CF is IEMAI. Being obsessive about drying it, using the Prusament profile with 0.98 extrusion multiplier seems to work OK. It's really quite brittle, meaning a lot of waste when it snaps off. I've printed generally small objects: the belt tensioner parts multiple times, and the ESP32 camera case. No issues with printing. It's cheap, and you get what you pay for, I guess. 🙂
Dried it as well and first tried 0.9 and then next 1.0. It's fine for small things, prints well and I did buy it initially for the belt tensioner replacement. However, for larger part, it's crap. Yes, you get what you paid for. Prusa technical filaments seem to be in short supply. I do like their PPCF though even though it has a very low density and feels too "lite".
RE: Can't get the chamber temp to go above 51 degrees
CF filled filaments, be it PC or PA, are more rigid than the non filled counterparts. That can be an advantage or not, depending on the use. Sometimes you need a part that retains a bit of compliance/flexibility and so it’s less prone to crack under pressure. CF/GF filaments have also worse interlayer adhesion. The big advantage of these filaments is that they warp a lot less than the non filled versions and therefore much easier to print. I guess that’s why Prusa recommends PC-CF instead of PC blend for making printer parts, specially the large ones.
In my experience, for the vast majority of uses I’d employ ASA instead of PC-CF, It’s cheaper and there’re less chances of cracking parts that have a very tight fit ( the X/Y carriages rod holders for instance). Only the parts that are exposed to temperatures of 90C or more will benefit from being printed in PC instead of ASA/ABS.
UV endurance is another question. PC isn’t specially good resisting UV exposure for long periods. PA isn’t much better, ASA would be the best choice in this regard ( but worse for high temperatures ),
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UV endurance is another question. PC isn’t specially good resisting UV exposure for long periods. PA isn’t much better, ASA would be the best choice in this regard ( but worse for high temperatures ),
This part is going to be exposed to a ton of UV radiation but not so much heat (well below 60C at least). ASA indeed seems the best choice for this application.