RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
It's a bit strange, because I never had this problem with the MINI printer.
Maybe the sheet was well-used by the time you got into PETG, and not squeaky-clean anymore? Or maybe you only printed smaller parts on the Mini?
I actually use the smooth PEI sheet for small PETG parts with a narrow footprint, which don't stick well enough to the satin plate in my experience. No glue stick needed in that scenario -- the parts sit tight during printing and come off without excessive force afterwards.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
It's a bit strange, because I never had this problem with the MINI printer.
And I also printed a lot of PETG on smooth surfaces.
I'm not using a mini... but that's exactly what confused me. I've had it on multiple brands of sheets and only recently. I wash the sheets with warm soapy water. Occasionally, I'll use an 100% ETOH or Isopropanol pads to clean between prints, but only one plates that allow for that. Literally damaged a plate removing PETG on it... and tried everything... printing ABS on it, printing ASA on it, warming it up to 100C and then putting it in the freezer, etc. etc.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
On Prusa's PA plate has a big, bold warning not to clean with IPA. Can't see why they couldn't do the same with the smooth plate. Anyway, I don't use any Prusa plates anymore they are just not that good. All of my printing is either done on the Glacier or a G10 plate.
As for "it's stated clearly in page X of the printer manual" my response to that is who either reads or remembers this stuff? I don't. I graduated from and Ender 3 with a glass plate to the MK4 that I assembled and by that time I had already switched from PLA to PETG. I got a PETG part stuck on the smooth PEI sheet (got it off without ripping the covering). After that I researched it and bought some glue stick.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Yeah, so in the middle of this...
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195
It shows a graphic that tells you what you can and cannot print on their sheets and what needs glue. Note that the textured PEI sheet with PETG does not require glue... but I have managed to destroy it with Overture PETG and no gluestick.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
I had the exact opposite problem with the Prusa textured PEI sheet. I could never get anything to stick to it. It was horrible.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
I like the textured PEI for making signs... with PLA... that's a winner.
The overture PETG is some form of evil anti-textured PEI sheet formulation... it's SUCKs for coming off. My favorite sheet is the textured spring steel sheet.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
There is a textured sheet that works really well for me. It was a no-name brand I picked up on Amazon for $19.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
for my core one I got a couple of Cryo grips glaciers and they worked like a champ. I really had no problems printing just about anything on them.
however when I originally bought the printer, I bought every freaking plate they had just in case.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
for my core one I got a couple of Cryo grips glaciers and they worked like a champ. I really had no problems printing just about anything on them.
however when I originally bought the printer, I bought every freaking plate they had just in case.
🤣 Yup.... Did the same... And I had to dig them out of the closet for this photo. As of now I only use the Cryo and G10 sheet.
RE:
Be sure that if I ever buy one of these Cryo plates it will because of your tireless campaign.. 😉
I used also a garolite plate on myMK3S ( with a steel sheet glued underneath) for printing PA and it wasn't bad. I found out nevertheless that the garolite sheet wasn't very even in thickness all across and also it was easy to scratch. In the end I purchased a Prusa PA powder coated plate.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Be sure that if I ever buy one of these Cryo plates it will because of your tireless campaign.. 😉
I used also a garolite plate on myMK3S ( with a steel sheet glued underneath) for printing PA and it wasn't bad. I found out nevertheless that the garolite sheet wasn't very even in thickness all across and also it was easy to scratch. In the end I purchased a Prusa PA powder coated plate.
The whole point of G10 (garolite) I've discovered is that you are supposed to scratch it. That is for super non-stick filaments (POM is a great example), you have to scuff the sheet with 600 grit sandpaper.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
You clean it when its dirty - if there is residue that needs to be removed. I've had 3 of these, one each on Core One and one on my old MK3S+, they work well.
That said the Prusa plates have worked well for me, even though it looks awful my original smooth plate from 2018 still works fine. Just one or two tiny bubbles where the glue is starting to give way. And one old textured plate from 2019 batches that has a couple of torn bits in the middle due to printing polycarbonate without a glue layer and letting it cool first.
The main benefit of these plates is being able to hot swap at the end of a print for a quick restart.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
I have the cryogrip pro and since then used the prusa one only once,
Cryogrip rules with PLA, PetG and PC-CF.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Be sure that if I ever buy one of these Cryo plates it will because of your tireless campaign.. 😉
I used also a garolite plate on myMK3S ( with a steel sheet glued underneath) for printing PA and it wasn't bad. I found out nevertheless that the garolite sheet wasn't very even in thickness all across and also it was easy to scratch. In the end I purchased a Prusa PA powder coated plate.
The whole point of G10 (garolite) I've discovered is that you are supposed to scratch it. That is for super non-stick filaments (POM is a great example), you have to scuff the sheet with 600 grit sandpaper. I
If you want a perfectly smooth bottom layer, I don't think this is a good idea.. 😊
Smooth plates.have this problem, any scratch that you can make removing a print will leave a mark on the bottom layer of further prints, unless you avoid to locate your model over the scratched part. Satin plates are much more forgiving and so are textured, but these have poor adhesion to PLA.
RE:
Another failed print!, Started of good but lifted as the print progressed.
OK the cryogrip is good in that it allows PC Blend to print and detach nicely, but you need a brim, trust me you need a brim. The good bit is that it detaches nicely and you don't need any paste or grip solution etc to print, but you will need a brim.
I was lucky I think that I was using a diamondback nozzle as it melted the previous layer as it was rising up and continued without skipping a beat (0.6 nozzle, fast maximum layer height. Never mind the cost, you want to get a diamondback nozzle in 0.4 and 0.6, well worth the money, obxidian sucks in comparison, I have both now).
This is a few times now where PCblend has detached and each time I haven't used a brim.
Cleaned with IPA before printing.
Normal people believe that if it is not broke, do not fix it. Engineers believe that if it is not broke, it does not have enough features yet.
RE:
Another failed print!, Started of good but lifted as the print progressed.
This is a few times now where PCblend has detached and each time I haven't used a brim.
PC Blend and a print that large requires a different approach and a different build surface. The CryoGrip is the wrong surface. Also a brim is not going to help here. Even if you did get the part to stick to the sheet it will bend the sheet like a potato chip and pull it off the print bed.
I use a Garolite G10 surface on a rigid steel backing and Vision Miner Nano Polymer adhesive. I also have my own profiles for PC Blend that are tuned specifically for large rectangular parts to reduce warping. A basic setup is to use 4-5 perimeters and 12% Gyroid infill. Even on a very rigid plate, I've had a PC Blend part warp the plate. Also, the build plate needs to be kept high temp and the chamber temperature as well needs to be > 55°. It's also import to move the print away from the center and closer to the back of the printer where there is less of thermal gradient.
Also do not use the stock profiles for a large functional print. You need to run your own calibrations. For example, Prusa PC Blend XY shrinkage is set for 0.18% whereas I've measured it to 0.59%. That 0.41% difference doesn't seem like much but on a 250mm part that equates to ~1.3mm which is enough to throw screw holes out of alignment.
I've attached the profile I use for PC Blend and a Diamondback 0.6mm nozzle
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Thanks for the list. I had a roll of Prusa ABS-T laying around since even before my mk4 and I finally tested it. No smell (advanced filtration did its job well) but ABS sticks like crazy, separation layer highly recommend. Now I need to remove a bit of the ABS print's first layer that decided to stick to the plate instead of the rest of the part. Any suggestions?
This is my experience with ABS (Amazon Basics) on the Cryogrip sheet with 3DLac, it was the brim that stuck and removing it is a royal PITA.
I ended up putting the sheet in the freezer, lots of flexing and using a plastic razor blade to basically chip it off the sheet. Do not use anything metal or sharp as this will damage the surface coating. I now have areas on the sheet I can't print on because of the damage.
I won't use the Cryogrip with ABS as the cleanup is so time consuming with high risk of damaging the sheet.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
I’ve been using Magigoo for PC on the Cryo grip plate… it’s been having a hard time actually binding properly. I have not tried ABS yet… I haven’t tried 3DLac with either material yet… But honestly, I have been finding that certain brands of PETG are damaging my build sheet sheets without using and adhesive.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Thanks for the profile, I will test it later.
Meanwhile, I changed the design and gave it a brim which gave me a successful print.
Normal people believe that if it is not broke, do not fix it. Engineers believe that if it is not broke, it does not have enough features yet.