RE:
Not saying that this isn’t a very interesting product, but more tests need to be done with troublesome stuff like ABS, ASA, PC, PA..
I've printed a lot of PC CF, ASA and PA (PA6 and PPA) on this plate and I haven't found a geometry yet that requires a glue layer or brim. Although I am interested in finding something that does so I can do a proper test.
On the Satin sheet with the same parts I've had to use glue. I'm not a BIQU Cyro fan boy, it's just that I've had iffy experiences with the Prusa plates and what they offer costs more than twice as much (in the States) as the Cryo plate and I get it delivered next day. So to me it's a no-brainer even if I have to break out the glue sticks.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Ok so initial thoughts:
Better than the Prusa Satin sheet for a lot less money.
Will be giving it a full workout on a range of filaments over the next week or so, but the problematic one (PC-CF) first layer adheres nicely.
I have a Matte PLA that I love, but it only adheres well to the Prusa smooth sheet when printing tall stuff or where first layer has tricky geometry... so very interested to see how that one gets on.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
The only issue I've had is with the same plate on my H2D... and that would be to prime tower falling over. At that point, I used a glue stick in the spot where the tall prime tower would go. Otherwise, on the prints themselves, no issues at all... and especially on the Core One... those sheets are great.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Ok so initial thoughts:
Better than the Prusa Satin sheet for a lot less money.
Will be giving it a full workout on a range of filaments over the next week or so, but the problematic one (PC-CF) first layer adheres nicely.I have a Matte PLA that I love, but it only adheres well to the Prusa smooth sheet when printing tall stuff or where first layer has tricky geometry... so very interested to see how that one gets on.
Been finding that the TPU Air I've been experimenting with sticks too well. Sheet is fine, just takes a lot of effort to peel it off. Cool thing (pun intended) is I don't need to heat the bed even for this.
RE:
With TPU I've always found a few drips of IPA on the plate, around the perimeters makes taking it off the plate much less of a hassle. Dunno if it's just the result of the temperature drop or not.
Just tested the matte PLA with the Cryogrip plate and again it sticks better than the Prusa satin sheet. Really impressed so far when you factor in the cost. I mean the second one cost me pennies over £7, that wouldn't even pay for the shipping for a Prusa sheet 😂
RE:
With TPU I've always found a few drips of IPA on the plate, around the perimeters makes taking it off the plate much less of a hassle. Dunno if it's just the result of the temperature drop or not.
Just tested the matte PLA with the Cryogrip plate and again it sticks better than the Prusa satin sheet. Really impressed so far when you factor in the cost. I mean the second one cost me pennies over £7, that wouldn't even pay for the shipping for a Prusa sheet 😂
I'll give IPA a try. Stuff I have is 99.9% lab grade so it might evaporate too quickly. The TPU Air I use seems to be partially soluble in IPA (I think... it seems that way). I read some where to try a light mist of Windex (Windolene to you folks in the UK). Or maybe try Magigoo for a separation layer.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
This is and a generic $20 textured plate are the only ones I use now. All the Prusa plates got relegated to the closet.
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Yeah best to let the plate cool a little. I use a dripper with my IPA (also 99.9%) so I can be pretty accurate where it goes, its weird when you watch it, a few drops travels around the perimeter in a couple of seconds, I presume some kind of surface tension going on. Always does the trick for me with TPU.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Yeah best to let the plate cool a little. I use a dripper with my IPA (also 99.9%) so I can be pretty accurate where it goes, its weird when you watch it, a few drops it travels around the perimeter in a couple of seconds, I presume some kind of surface tension going on. Always does the trick for me with TPU.
This makes sense since I've noticed >99% IPA works very well to clean TPU remnants off my sheet. Thanks for the tip! Will give it a try later.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Just tried with ASA which has been problematic for me in the past.
Stuck great, and released on its own when the print cooled down. Not even a hint of warping, and the part I printed has geometry that makes it a prime target for warping.
This sheet is great, it's like witchcraft.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Yeah, I've been printing ASA-CF for days with that sheet... no issues at all. (Though I will say that ASA-CF is brittle as hell... Polymaker ASA-RCF08... brakes SO easily.)
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Question regarding cleaning the Cryogrip Pro Glacier: I just finished my first ever PETG print on the new plate. It looks great. Came right off the plate when it cooled. Should I clean the plate after every print? Or just when it starts to look "dirty"? I can see a faint outline on the blue plate of the round object I printed in PETG.
Second question: When using PETG, I read the I should clean with 91 or 99% IPA. Do you all just use paper towels, or some special no lint cloth? (I don't want to use inexpensive micro-fiber rags, since when I use these on my eye glasses, I see them leave behind all forms of fibers and lint.
Please give me some guidance here. I was wondering if the IPA and paper towels would dissolve some of the paper towel binder glue and leave residue on the build plate, or if this is so minimal that it simply does not matter.
Thanks for the education.
Neal
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Question regarding cleaning the Cryogrip Pro Glacier: I just finished my first ever PETG print on the new plate. It looks great. Came right off the plate when it cooled. Should I clean the plate after every print? Or just when it starts to look "dirty"? I can see a faint outline on the blue plate of the round object I printed in PETG.
Second question: When using PETG, I read the I should clean with 91 or 99% IPA. Do you all just use paper towels, or some special no lint cloth? (I don't want to use inexpensive micro-fiber rags, since when I use these on my eye glasses, I see them leave behind all forms of fibers and lint.
Please give me some guidance here. I was wondering if the IPA and paper towels would dissolve some of the paper towel binder glue and leave residue on the build plate, or if this is so minimal that it simply does not matter.Thanks for the education.
Neal
I haven't cleaned the plate in more than 2 weeks. I do wipe it down occasionally with 99.9% IPA. I use these: Professional Kimtech Science Kimwipes which are lint free. Any kind of lint free cloth or tissue should work. I wouldn't worry about it too much. You can't really harm the plate unless you use something like acetone (which you definitely should not use).
That said, this sheet is nuts. Everything sticks to it. I've thrown every filament I have at it. So far no warping or detaching from the plate during printing.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Yeah, it also seems less susceptible to finger residue. On the satin sheet if I could see anything darker that would be where my fingers touched it and some filament would not stick to it at all.
I've washed it with soap and water and between that will occasionally wipe off with IPA. No special stuff, regular paper towels.Though as hyiger said, it doesn't seem to need much cleaning at all, so I'm not wiping often.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
It can collect cruft and other bits of things that can get caught up in the first layer. The stuff I'm printing needs to be functional and not necessarily pretty so bits of debris are not really of concern. I've yet to run into a bad first layer with this sheet. To further @tbr's point, I agree that a paper towel is good enough. I have a lot of Kimtech wipes lying around since I use them for cleaning telescope optics.
It's definitely true that with the Satin sheet I had to closely inspect it under a bright light before every print and carefully wipe away any smudges. Otherwise I had all kinds of first layer adhesion problems or in the worst case the print detaching and causing a spaghetti monster.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hello,
Is this plate solid?
I bought 2 plates (satin) for mk3s on aliexpress and both times the coating was gone in less than a week.
Are amazon and aliexpress plates the same?
https://www.amazon.fr/CryoGrip-Glacier-construction-imprimante-amovible/dp/B0DT11ZC8P
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005007985949072.html
Le amazon plate costs 40eur, and the aliexpress one costs 28eur one plate, and 52eur for 2 plates (for mk3s)
Do you have any advices ?
Thank you very much, have a nice day !
F.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hello,
Is this plate solid?
I bought 2 plates (satin) for mk3s on aliexpress and both times the coating was gone in less than a week.
I've been using the Cryo for more than a month now and haven't had any issues with the coating. I highly recommend it and will continue to buy them. As to whether there is any difference in quality buying it from Ali vs Amazon, I have no idea. I've never bought anything from AliExpress. I can only guess that if there was a difference it could be due to the sheet being a counterfeit but then I would have no idea why someone would go to the trouble of counterfeiting a build plate.
As for why your satin sheets only last one week, how are you cleaning them? Hopefully you are not using acetone.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Thank you for your answer !
The plating on the two aliexpress plates started to peel off when I removed the first object printed on it (4 or 5cm radius), and became unusable after the second use.
I haven't cleaned it, except perhaps with hot water and washing-up liquid.
The small Chinese components are generally not “top-of-the-range” but do their job quite honestly for a fairly low price.
The mk3's extruder is around 15eur on ae and its cooling fan around 4eur. Both work well.
The extruder is of very good quality, the fan of decent quality and makes a little more noise than the original one. The original fan lasted more of 5 years, this one will last maybe than one year or 2... we'll see. !
However, I avoid the “cheap” not very compatible aliexpress which is really low-end. The Prusa plate costs 50eur (textured, 60eur the satin one), including postage.
I'm not sure I'll buy the AZ one or a new textured one from Prusa.
F. de France, with the help of Deepl for translation.
RE:
However, I avoid the “cheap” not very compatible aliexpress which is really low-end. The Prusa plate costs 50eur (textured, 60eur the satin one), including postage.
I'm not sure I'll buy the AZ one or a new textured one from Prusa.F. de France, with the help of Deepl for translation.
I stopped buying Prusa plates, they are not worth the expense. I owned both the specialized Prusa PA and PP plates since I print a lot of nylon and polypropylene for my model rocket hobby. However, the BIQU Cryo Glacier costs 1/3 the price (in the US), is superior and works with every filament type I use. So now I have 2 Cryo plates (one is a spare) and one generic textured plate I got from Amazon for $20. This is all I use now. The Prusa plates are in a box in my closet. I probably should recycle them.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
The plating on the two aliexpress plates
It's worth keeping in mind that neither Aliexpress, nor Amazon are the vendors. Yes Amazon has their Basics stuff and blurs lines, but at the far end they have the exact same items and vendors that you can find on Aliexpress. Also Amazon has repeatedly made headlines by shipping out counterfeit products even from "Sold by Amazon" due to stuff getting mixed in their warehouses.
So on both marketplaces it's really important to do some due diligence as a buyer. Larger number of sales and decent review can be an indicator. Also prices "too good to be true" should be approached with some skepticism as there are multiple aspects like: different product with less features/quality, cheap product but expensive pricing, etc. There are probably decent explanations and guides that go into much more depth.
To stick with the example of the Cryo Grip plates. 25-40% below Amazon is not uncommon in pricing. For aliexpress the shipping cost is factored into the item price, so it's very common for it being significantly cheaper to buy multiple items, as essentially you pay for shipping + 2 items instead of shipping + 1 item.
I'd be concerned if someone would be passing off a CryoGrip at a price of 15€ without shipping, as you might end up with a light blue colored generic plate instead…
It's a little bit of science and experience, but you can get consistently reliable products at significantly better prices if you invest that time.