RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
I really do like this Orange - comes out so nice when printed.
So do I - less shiny than PETG, and the parts look clean and sharp. I find it warps more than Overture ABS, but bumping up the build plate temperature to 120, and getting the enclosure nice and toasty before printing, seems to reliably fix that.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
I have plenty of Prusa orange ASA, so I'm tempted to reprint the PETG parts, especially the black parts, partly because I've never been a fan of black parts (very difficult to work on except in good light) and partly just 'to make it my own'.
This is all the parts in the petg-parts-black.3mf file, reprinted in ASA. And I've just discovered that my printer kit was shipped with only one of the orange side handles, so I may as well the three parts in petg-parts-orange.3mf as well, to match.
Which orange filament is that? Prusa Orange ASA?
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
I really do like this Orange - comes out so nice when printed.
So do I - less shiny than PETG, and the parts look clean and sharp. I find it warps more than Overture ABS, but bumping up the build plate temperature to 120, and getting the enclosure nice and toasty before printing, seems to reliably fix that.
I like the black-and-orange color scheme on the Prusa printers, but actually prefer the balance they have shifted to more recently -- using the orange accents sparingly, and only on regular interaction points. Although one could argue that, following that logic, the encoder knob should still be orange. 😎 But that's an injection-molded part now, so we don't get a 3D model apparently?
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
I really do like this Orange - comes out so nice when printed.
So do I - less shiny than PETG, and the parts look clean and sharp. I find it warps more than Overture ABS, but bumping up the build plate temperature to 120, and getting the enclosure nice and toasty before printing, seems to reliably fix that.
I like the black-and-orange color scheme on the Prusa printers, but actually prefer the balance they have shifted to more recently -- using the orange accents sparingly, and only on regular interaction points. Although one could argue that, following that logic, the encoder knob should still be orange. 😎 But that's an injection-molded part now, so we don't get a 3D model apparently?
You can use MK4 knob here or just add an orange accent like this.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Which orange filament is that? Prusa Orange ASA?
Yes.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
So based on the comments from Jan, do you still intend to use the ASA parts for the motor mounts and cable clip?
Yeah, good question - I had the same thought when I saw Jan's reply. The ASA motor mounts seem to have a bit of flex - not as much as PETG, but not super rigid. I'll try them I think, and can always do them again in Prusament orange PETG if necessary. The ASA cable clip opens far enough to get the cable in.
I built my kit yesterday, using the orange ASA parts that I'd printed previously. I'm pleased to say that, so far, the ASA doesn't appear to have caused any issues. Everything went together well and it passed the self-tests without problem.
However, having now seen where all the PETG parts go, I realise there are very few of them that are visible. Aside from the spool holder and the side handles, which come in orange PETG anyway, the main big parts are all round the back. From the front I can see the bowden bend, the bowden guide, the side filament sensor and the rod mounts at the bottom. That's it. The motor mounts are out of sight below the base plate. So in terms of adding extra coloured accents it wasn't really worthwhile. All the other main printed parts inside are in black PCCF. The back does look good though 🙂
I did a quick keychain in PLA (from the USB stick) last night, and I'm currently printing the VFA test in a nice shiny PETG. So far I'm really pleased. I still have the printer on the table next to me, pending relocation to a permanent home on a rigid worktop, and it's delightfully quiet - no nasty resonances of any sort so far. I was all prepared to have to lubricate the z-screws, but so far that hasn't been necessary. Of course, that could all change once it reaches the faster levels of the VFA test.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
My personal reflection on the kit building process. It was a pleasure to build, as usual, and the instructions were very clear and very well illustrated, as usual. Prusa do a fantastic job of making the complex job of building their printers seem relatively straightforward. The instructions have clearly benefitted from a few early comments from end users, as did I in a couple of places.
I had prepared a bunch of stackable parts trays for all the fasteners, so it was easy to get my hands on them when needed. I have to say though that a lot of the build time is spent hunting for parts. The boxes all have what seem like useful names, but I was frustrated at times that parts seemed to be 'scattered' among the boxes - some steps had me fetching what seemed like similar parts from three different boxes, and parts often didn't seem to 'belong' to the boxes they were packed in - the short PTFE tube in the same bag as, and hidden by, the door hinges, would have been annoying if I hadn't been so close to the end. I appreciate that the size and shape of the parts influences what will fit where in the main parcel, but the current approach meant that I had to leave all the boxes open and scattered across my floor. I wonder whether there's scope for grouping parts more in line with the corresponding chapter in the build guide.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Yeh I can relate this this. The motors for example - 2 are in the motors box, where you would expect them, and the third x-Axis motor is in a separate box buried under fans and electronics (although fortunately the manual does mention this one!)
You would also assume all electronics are in one Electronics box - but the xbuddy boards are in one and wifi boards etc in another lol
Hence its advisable to have a lot of space so you can open boxes out easily!
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
My personal reflection on the kit building process. It was a pleasure to build, as usual, and the instructions were very clear and very well illustrated, as usual. Prusa do a fantastic job of making the complex job of building their printers seem relatively straightforward. The instructions have clearly benefitted from a few early comments from end users, as did I in a couple of places.
I had prepared a bunch of stackable parts trays for all the fasteners, so it was easy to get my hands on them when needed. I have to say though that a lot of the build time is spent hunting for parts. The boxes all have what seem like useful names, but I was frustrated at times that parts seemed to be 'scattered' among the boxes - some steps had me fetching what seemed like similar parts from three different boxes, and parts often didn't seem to 'belong' to the boxes they were packed in - the short PTFE tube in the same bag as, and hidden by, the door hinges, would have been annoying if I hadn't been so close to the end. I appreciate that the size and shape of the parts influences what will fit where in the main parcel, but the current approach meant that I had to leave all the boxes open and scattered across my floor. I wonder whether there's scope for grouping parts more in line with the corresponding chapter in the build guide.
Cool, do you get any sort of compensation from Prusa Research or associates?
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Cool, do you get any sort of compensation from Prusa Research or associates?
I wish! Why do you ask? Is it because of my praise for the kit instructions? That's an independent, and quite genuine, opinion. When I think of the effort that's gone into creating those instructions I'm impressed.
It took me a long day to build my kit - taking my time and going carefully. Obviously the Prusa staff will do the job more efficiently, but I'd be surprised if one person could build more than two in an 8-hour day. Even if it's a production line arrangement where one person does nothing except, say, the base assembly all day, the aggregate time for a build might work out at 2-3 printers per person per day. So kits make a lot of sense in terms of getting a lot of printers into customers hands. It probably pays them to make sure it's an enjoyable process so that enthusiasm for the kits remains high.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Yeh I can relate this this. The motors for example - 2 are in the motors box, where you would expect them, and the third x-Axis motor is in a separate box buried under fans and electronics (although fortunately the manual does mention this one!)
Yes, the manual does say where everything is. I think I recall that only that motor wasn't specific ("One motor is packed separately"), and several users had added comments about where to find it. But even when you know where things are, I found that trying to take a list of three items in my head into another room where all the boxes are lying open on the floor (so you can't see the titles on the lids without closing them) wasn't always successful! Maybe it's old timers' disease. 🙂
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
I did a quick keychain in PLA (from the USB stick) last night, and I'm currently printing the VFA test in a nice shiny PETG. So far I'm really pleased. I still have the printer on the table next to me, pending relocation to a permanent home on a rigid worktop, and it's delightfully quiet - no nasty resonances of any sort so far. I was all prepared to have to lubricate the z-screws, but so far that hasn't been necessary. Of course, that could all change once it reaches the faster levels of the VFA test.
You should already see VFA as I got much of it starting at 40mm/s up to max speed.
Keep us in touch and don't hesitate to post the result of the topic dedicated to VFA. 🙂
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
You should already see VFA as I got much of it starting at 40mm/s up to max speed.
Keep us in touch and don't hesitate to post the result of the topic dedicated to VFA. 🙂
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Honestly believe they did this as the motor kit is the same one for the MK4S. Not ideal but makes it easier for Prusa.
Yeh I can relate this this. The motors for example - 2 are in the motors box, where you would expect them, and the third x-Axis motor is in a separate box buried under fans and electronics (although fortunately the manual does mention this one!)
You would also assume all electronics are in one Electronics box - but the xbuddy boards are in one and wifi boards etc in another lol
Hence its advisable to have a lot of space so you can open boxes out easily!
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Please let us know if the ASA motor mounts cause any issues. Sounds like they're working good at the moment.
So based on the comments from Jan, do you still intend to use the ASA parts for the motor mounts and cable clip?
Yeah, good question - I had the same thought when I saw Jan's reply. The ASA motor mounts seem to have a bit of flex - not as much as PETG, but not super rigid. I'll try them I think, and can always do them again in Prusament orange PETG if necessary. The ASA cable clip opens far enough to get the cable in.
I built my kit yesterday, using the orange ASA parts that I'd printed previously. I'm pleased to say that, so far, the ASA doesn't appear to have caused any issues. Everything went together well and it passed the self-tests without problem.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Kit build is going well so far, though the packaging is a bit strange with parts spread out quite strangely, really glad i bought the kit version. However i was shocked to see they use normal m threads for screwing directly in the plastic parts. In my engineering world thats an absolute NONO, big mistake. There are screws made for self taping in plastic that works well. Doesnt sit well with serviceability etc since the screws are not easy to use again.
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However i was shocked to see they use normal m threads for screwing directly in the plastic parts. In my engineering world thats an absolute NONO, big mistake.
Don't worry, it works very well. It's called practice.
Unfortunately, you can't say that about everything an engineer thinks should work. 😆
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
Please let us know if the ASA motor mounts cause any issues. Sounds like they're working good at the moment.
No issues at all so far. My printer is delightfully quiet in all axes. There are VFAs, but the emphasis is on the 'F' for fine (and the lead screws can't possibly have anything to do with that). I don't think that the stiffness of the motor mounts makes any practical difference. If the mounts weren't square, such that the lead screws weren't centred at the top, they might put a small lateral load on the trapezoidal nuts, and the degree of flex would therefore dictate how big that force was. But in practice the mounts can't really be anything but square.
On the other hand, the motor mounts are entirely hidden once the kit is assembled, so certainly don't reprint them for a bit of visual flair!
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
It's called practice.
More specifically, it's called bad practice. 🤨
Yes, M3 screws in plastic might work. But the scheme is quite sensitive to manufacturing tolerances of the hole diameters, as Prusa's Core One parts have demonstrated in both directions: Diameters so small that it was difficult to turn in a screw without a tap; diameters so large that the screw sits quite loosely and threads are easily stripped.
And, as @cedric wrote: Why didn't Prusa at least use proper self-tapping screws made for this purpose? Using proper engineering techniques and delivering designs that are easy to repair and modify is one of their major product claims, after all.
RE: Prusa CORE One kit assembly instructions
However i was shocked to see they use normal m threads for screwing directly in the plastic parts. In my engineering world thats an absolute NONO, big mistake.
Don't worry, it works very well. It's called practice.
Unfortunately, you can't say that about everything an engineer thinks should work. 😆
Using self tapping screws in a non threaded undersized hole, is fine as tolerances don't matter as much with the screw creating it's own thread. Having a part with holes that can vary in tolerance and expecting a normal machine screw to hold, especially if that hole is oversize, is a bit of an oversight imo.
Engineers see things in ways many don't, but this is quite a simple working practice within a mechanical/precision engineers world, Prusa makes them this way for a reason, but sometimes these reasons aren't clear. If they need to be machine screws because it's fixing into PCCF, then maybe they should be gauging the holes to make sure the screws supplied, actually fit, in an ideal world of course. But for me, (not an engineer, but experience in the field) the holes should be undersized and self tappers used, which leaves a lot more room for tolerences. After all this is a machine, and these things need to be thought out carefully.
Scott