Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful - General discussion, announcements and releases

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

hyiger — Thu, 11 Sep 2025 17:10:46 +0000

I've had no trouble with random plates I've picked off of Amazon for $15-25. You know, the companies with names that are mostly consonants like SVBONY or GRTBTU. Anyway, I don't have to jump through hoops to get a good first layer.

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

GBMaryland — Thu, 11 Sep 2025 11:04:50 +0000

I clean then with soap and water. Then wipe them with 100 isopropanol between builds. I have not had a problem with any of them over 100s of hours of printing. The glacier build plates are very good and reasonably priced.

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

Jameslmr — Thu, 11 Sep 2025 09:29:57 +0000

I had quite a few issues with PETG warping on a Core One branded textured plate. I read somewhere that lightly scratching the surface of it with a scotch-brite sponge can help. This worked really well for me and prints stick perfectly for me now. I make sure to wash the sheet with a smooth sponge, and with soap and water every ten prints or so.

Annoying that you have to essentially post-modify the sheet for it to work well.

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

domble — Thu, 11 Sep 2025 08:21:27 +0000

I've only printed PLA so far on the Core One. With the satin plate, straight out of the packet without any sort of cleaning. No problems at all.

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

pjs37 — Thu, 11 Sep 2025 03:37:24 +0000

I must admit my experience with the build plates from Prusa while not awful has not been something I felt ever reached the levels of praise others have heaped onto them ( i been through 6 plates now across two printers). I have always had issues with warping, prints simply just not sticking, or weird wrinkle issues. The textured plates were the worse for me, the smooth sheet worked ok, the satin I been using more but I have mixed opinions on that so far. I find I always need to run my heat bed 5-10 degrees hotter then any of the recommended settings just to prevent warping as bad and even then, it will still almost always warp. Someday I will get around to looking at some 3rd party plates just to see how they fare.

Curious to see what others have as a recommendation to try.

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

Laura F Farrell — Thu, 04 Sep 2025 19:16:40 +0000

I've washed my mk3 sheets with dish soap for a very long time - as you rightly say, IPA just spreads the grease all over the print surface, whereas dishsoap and water rinses it all away. Some of my sheets are 7 years old and none the worse for wear. Well not for washing with water. I found that Polymaker PC Max and Colorfabb PA-CF low warp were very hard on sheets and that is where nearly all the damage is from.

RE:

Laura F Farrell — Thu, 04 Sep 2025 19:11:47 +0000

I'm using the Cyrogrip and Glacier plates on my MK3S+ and BBL P1S respectively. I've had no issues with the supplied satin sheet so far - sounds like there was a poor batch out there. If anything most prints are sticking TOO well - even ABS and ASA. I very much like the Glacier plate but its been much better on the mk3 than on the Bambu labs P1s. On the other hand, most prints are sticking like glue to the Cyrogrip on the p1s.

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

hyiger — Sat, 30 Aug 2025 20:25:23 +0000

Posted by: @tim-24
First thing is -- how do you clean the print sheets?
If it isn't under flowing water, as hot as you can stand, with a drop of Dawn dish soap on a fresh paper towel, scrubbing the surface and handling the sheet only by the edges, until water is sheeting off leaving no wetted areas, your print sheets are soiled.
Wash multiple times, rinse in the hottest tap water you can, the water should flow off and leave a mostly dry sheet. Dry the spots that remain with a fresh paper towel. Handle only by the edges, place the sheet on the heater bed, the smooth PEI is ready to go, the textures need a short bake at 50c or more to ensure no water remains in the crevices. I just start printing and let the preheat do the drying.
It is a numbers game. One fingerprint goes a long ways: and a few drops of alcohol just dilutes the oils and you end up spreading it around. If you use a few milliliters of 99% alcohol and a good microfiber cloth, you can get kind of clean. But gallons of hot water and detergent lift the oil and rinses it away.

Yes... Hot water, Dawn and 99% IPA between prints. Sheet was simply bad.

RE:

GBMaryland — Sat, 30 Aug 2025 20:07:32 +0000

Posted by: @iftibashir

Ive only use the stock Core One smooth, and the Prusa textured so far.

Smooth plate was fine for PLA - no issues at all. I then printed one PETG object on it - also OK.

I then tried 10 PETG objects on the textured. Terrible experience, Had to cancel half of them due to terrible warping etc.

Switched back to smooth - the items printed fine - no warping, and completed, but now I notice little dips, or dimples, on the surface of the sheet where the PETG prints were. Never had this before.

I haven't tried my Satin sheet yet, and I must admit, I'm not looking forward to it at this point.......

I've been using the BT-25 for basically everything... PLA, PETG, PETG Cf, PC, PC CF, PETG GF, ASA, ASA-GF, ASA-CF, ABS... no nylon, but I think that requires a different build plate? Honestly, I like the Glacier pate too. I've got that in my H2D and I don't even use the Bambu one anymore....

RE: Prusa Core One Branded Build Plates Are Awful

Tim — Sat, 30 Aug 2025 19:26:47 +0000

First thing is -- how do you clean the print sheets? If it isn't under flowing water, as hot as you can stand, with a drop of Dawn dish soap on a fresh paper towel, scrubbing the surface and handling the sheet only by the edges, until water is sheeting off leaving no wetted areas, your print sheets are soiled. Wash multiple times, rinse in the hottest tap water you can, the water should flow off and leave a mostly dry sheet. Dry the spots that remain with a fresh paper towel. Handle only by the edges, place the sheet on the heater bed, the smooth PEI is ready to go, the textures need a short bake at 50c or more to ensure no water remains in the crevices. I just start printing and let the preheat do the drying. It is a numbers game. One fingerprint goes a long ways: and a few drops of alcohol just dilutes the oils and you end up spreading it around. If you use a few milliliters of 99% alcohol and a good microfiber cloth, you can get kind of clean. But gallons of hot water and detergent lift the oil and rinses it away.