RE: PC printing on Core One
Farenheit 450 ! That's Ray Bradbury territory. 😋
I prefer to use dedicated driers, even if I agree that they're overpriced. Ovens usually aren't able to keep a very accurate temperature and hot air management, so to speak, isn't as good as a well designed filament drier.
RE: PC printing on Core One
Farenheit 450 ! That's Ray Bradbury territory. 😋
I prefer to use dedicated driers, even if I agree that they're overpriced. Ovens usually aren't able to keep a very accurate temperature and hot air management, so to speak, isn't as good as a well designed filament drier.
What I wonder about with gas ovens is: part of the combustion products is H2O... does that have an impact on lower temperature drying in said over?
RE:
Farenheit 450 ! That's Ray Bradbury territory. 😋
I prefer to use dedicated driers, even if I agree that they're overpriced. Ovens usually aren't able to keep a very accurate temperature and hot air management, so to speak, isn't as good as a well designed filament drier.
What I wonder about with gas ovens is: part of the combustion products is H2O... does that have an impact on lower temperature drying in said over?
I'm thinking of picking up one of these as an "annealer oven" CHEFMAN Multifunctional Digital Air Fryer+ Rotisserie, Dehydrator, Convection Oven Can't beat $79 plus it has a rotisserie feature 😉
RE: PC printing on Core One
This one looks better: Cuisinart Air Fryer, 4.5-Quart Basket Fryer and the basket is exactly the size of a filament spool. Thinking of added a vertical spool and a Bowden coupler to it... Certainly cheaper than the SUNLU E2
RE: PC printing on Core One
H-O-L-Y C-R-A-P! Air Fryer.... you're an evil genius! <Golf Clap> Damn...
RE: PC printing on Core One
H-O-L-Y C-R-A-P! Air Fryer.... you're an evil genius! <Golf Clap> Damn...
Yup. And the first roll I will test/sacrifice is my IEMAI PC-CF. If it accidentally turns it into molten slag, then I'll know it didn't work but then no loss...
Oh, and they have a "2 spool" version as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FNT5M8VS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
RE: PC printing on Core One
"That's not filament drier it's a air frier!"
Said like "That's no moon. It's a space station...!"
RE: PC printing on Core One
Just be careful, this is why ovens are a bad idea for filament drying, they are very likely to have quite a variance in temperature. eg you set it to 80 degrees and that thing could be swinging between 70 and 90, giving an average of 80 degrees. I'd be extremely cautious of the cheap ones.
If you do get one then definitely give it a test run with a wireless temp probe in it first so you can see if the variation is substantial.
RE: PC printing on Core One
Just be careful, this is why ovens are a bad idea for filament drying, they are very likely to have quite a variance in temperature. eg you set it to 80 degrees and that thing could be swinging between 70 and 90, giving an average of 80 degrees. I'd be extremely cautious of the cheap ones.
If you do get one then definitely give it a test run with a wireless temp probe in it first so you can see if the variation is substantial.
I have a Creality SpacePi X4 already. In my case I'll be using it for annealing printed parts. If the temp holds then I'll use it for PA.
RE:
Thought I'd share this. Side by side comparison of Prusa PC-CF and IEMAI PC-CF in this image. Top is Prusa, bottom IEMAI both straight from the dryer and using manufacturer settings for each.
Then I flexed them a bit applying the same amount of force to each. And IEMAI snapped like a dried twig... and was slightly warped.
RE: PC printing on Core One
For those looking at air fryers and countertop ovens: Watch out!
A few cautions are relevant:
1. The average filament dryer consumes approx 150 watts. The average air fryer consumes from 1000 to 1700 watts, depending on model.
The same applies to countertop convection toaster ovens: approx 1450 to 1800 watts.
At these levels, if using it more than 10 minutes, you are going to find the molded plug on the cord getting very hot. And if your wall plug outlet
is old and has worn spring metal inside, you will soon be looking at a fire.
If you want to find an air fryer or countertop convection oven that can run 2 to 4 hours for filament drying or desiccant drying at high temps,
you may wish to replace your wall plug with the heavy duty 20 amp outlet plugs. These have larger metal springs inside to push onto your plug,
so the connection is more secure (less resistance), and hence FAR less likely to start a fire.
The same can be said for the molded plug on the cord that is attached to your appliance. These are almost ALL cheap china plugs that are
spot welded (poorly) with typically smaller wire than should be used (to save money AND pose a safety risk). If you simply cut off the factory
plug and screw on a real plug (properly) from Home Depot, you will find FAR less heating during usage. And far less fire risk.
2. Many air fryers do not have a timer that goes very long. Many countertop convection toaster ovens also do not have timers that go very long. The more
expensive countertop convection ovens have timers for between 2 and 10 hours, so are better suited for drying, especially Alumina desiccant which needs
450°F for approx 2 to 3 hours. So apparently you get what you pay for. The cheaper fryers and small ovens limit their run time because the design is so poor
they are well aware that the unit would fail quickly if permitted to run 3 or 4 hours continuously. If you need high temps or long periods of time, look for
the lower cost COMMERCIAL convection ovens, which are designed MUCH better and intended to run for long periods without overheating.
3. I found that many of the lower cost consumer fryers and ovens, even by good known brand names, do not reach anywhere near their claimed temperature specs.
Some that claim 450°F really only reached 350°F in customer measurement reviews. (The only people that lie more than politicians are the
the product marketing departments). Again, a low cost commercial unit, which may cost as much as $300 USD with tax, will much more likely handle
the temperature accuracy and runtime requirements for this 3D printing hobby.
While some commercial desktop ovens cost many thousands of dollars, an example of a lower cost unit that meets most needs is:
Vevor Countertop Convection Oven
which at this time costs approx $300 USD.
Now, lets be honest.... This starts to get very expensive for a hobby item. If you don't use Alumina Desiccants, you don't need 450°F.
If your main use is filament drying, your main concern is lower (but even and accurate) temps, and mainly a long cook timer that can
run for 4 to 8 hours without re-starting by hand every hour. So a much more simple oven can work. But I found that most of the lower
cost units do NOT have a timer that will stay on for more than 30 minutes or 1 hour. In order to get a several hour timer, we end up right
back in the over $200 range, for example:
https://www.breville.com/en-us/product/bov845
So, in summary, for less than approx $250 USD, I either find a very short cook timer, or very low temperatures, or bad reviews.
And, for those prices, you can buy a very good performing filament dryer that will consume FAR less electricity, by a factor of 10.
You mileage may vary, and I may be totally incorrect (which would be helpful in this case 🙂 ).
Cheers,
Neal