How to decrease Print Start Time  

RE:

For the absorb heat phase you can either press "skip" on the UI screen or disable for certain filament types in gcode. To do the later you can add the following to the Printers->Custom G-code section or you can simply remove (or comment out) the G29 G ; absorb heat line. 

{if filament_type[initial_tool] !~ /.*(FLEX|PLA|PETG).*/}
G29 G ; absorb heat
{endif}

As for (temporarily) skipping the bed leveling and reusing the previous mesh. You can comment out this section:

;
; MBL
;
M84 E ; turn off E motor
;G29 P1 ; invalidate mbl & probe print area
;G29 P1 X150 Y0 W100 H20 C ; probe near purge place
;G29 P3.2 ; interpolate mbl probes
;G29 P3.13 ; extrapolate mbl outside probe area
;G29 A ; activate mbl

Also, for example, perhaps save the profile as "Prusa CORE One 0.4 nozzle (skip bed level)" I wouldn't skip bed leveling all the time. If you are doing a print, remove the previous print then do another then it's probably safe to skip. I usually don't bother with this unless it's a really small print. 

RE:

What I'd do is go through the profile's G-code and remove the problematic codes. M109 and G29 G come to mind (for me it's OK to calibrate at uncontrolled nozzle temperature but of course you need it once for printing)

edit 1 min late - see above.

RE: How to decrease Print Start Time

I would love to see something in the PrusaSlicer to bypass it {hint,hint Jos}- I built mine and don't even have all the cladding on the case. Thanks guys, Gene

I am guessing that they never considered anyone using without needing the heatsoak, but I have Prusas going back many years and we do exist.

RE: How to decrease Print Start Time

I read that people do not like the several-minute start-up to print, but when printing things from Printables, and the code does not do that, I have much lower success with the prints. Considering most prints are an hour or much more, the few minutes are not important to me.

RE: How to decrease Print Start Time

Posted by: @mccluskey1

I read that people do not like the several-minute start-up to print, but when printing things from Printables, and the code does not do that, I have much lower success with the prints. Considering most prints are an hour or much more, the few minutes are not important to me.

When printing things from Printables, pre-sliced g-code is I suppose convenient but it's always better (in my opinion) to slice it yourself. Also, if I have a print that only needs 10-15 minutes I certainly don't want to wait 20 minutes for it to start. Depending on the geometry of the part I tend to skip the heat soak. For filament that are tricky to print, i.e. have a tendency to warp, I always use a heat soak. 

RE: How to decrease Print Start Time

Also, if I have a print that only needs 10-15 minutes I certainly don't want to wait 20 minutes for it to start.

Well, that would depend on material. If you for example print with ASA  or ABS then preheat is very welcome, since even with preheating part too easily creates an elephant toe. And it doesn't matter if print is hours long or just 15 minutes - if it curves it's useless.

I have two profiles created: one with preheat disabled (G29 G line commented out) and original one, then i choose what i need at that time, but since i mostly do PLA and PETG i mostly use "no preheat".

From i've read this "preheat" was made with intention to increase precision - it's for metal parts to warm up and extend to a working point, so that during printing later they stay put and doesn't extend (metal extends with heating). If that is made during print then part would (theoretically, that is) become somewhat distorted.

RE: How to decrease Print Start Time

Posted by: @protoncek-2

Also, if I have a print that only needs 10-15 minutes I certainly don't want to wait 20 minutes for it to start.

Well, that would depend on material. If you for example print with ASA  or ABS then preheat is very welcome, since even with preheating part too easily creates an elephant toe. And it doesn't matter if print is hours long or just 15 minutes - if it curves it's useless.

I have two profiles created: one with preheat disabled (G29 G line commented out) and original one, then i choose what i need at that time, but since i mostly do PLA and PETG i mostly use "no preheat".

From i've read this "preheat" was made with intention to increase precision - it's for metal parts to warm up and extend to a working point, so that during printing later they stay put and doesn't extend (metal extends with heating). If that is made during print then part would (theoretically, that is) become somewhat distorted.

That's why I've done it this way:

{if filament_type[initial_tool] !~ /.*(FLEX|PLA|PETG).*/}
G29 G ; absorb heat
{endif}

For ASA, PC etc I'll sort of eyeball it and press the "Skip" on the UI if I feel the part doesn't need a heat soak.