Filaments  

RE: Filaments

That is an impossible question to answer. 

But I'll try anyway.

• Do you want to print something that has great detail? Then use PLA. 
• Do you want to print something to organize your things? Then use PETG. 
• Do you want to print something for outside? Then use ASA. 
• Do you want to print something soft and flexible? Then use TPU
• Do you want to print something that can withstand harsh chemicals? Then use PP
• Do you want to print something that can withstand high temperatures and impacts? Then use PC
• Do you want to print something that can do all of the above? Then use PA

My advice though if you are still a beginner to just stick with PLA and PETG for now. Or maybe throw in a spool of TPU 95A for fun. 99% of the projects you'll want to print can be done with PLA or PETG. 

RE: Filaments

Great overview by @hyiger! On top of that, there are various specific considerations, e.g.:

• PLA is available in a large range of decorative finishes (glitter, metallic, silky), which the other filaments don't offer, hence may be the only choice for certain decorative objects.
• ABS can be smoothed with acetone fumes if you need to make the layer lines invisible after printing. But it's an unpleasant material to work with -- shrinks/warps easily during printing and emits unhealthy fumes. Some other filament/solvent combinations have been discussed for the same purpose, but the solvents are either less effective or more toxic than acetone. 
• Fiber-reinforced filaments can provide added strength for parts that have to bear mechanical loads, less stretching/shrinkage (creep) under load, and less shrinkage during printing. 

RE: Filaments

PETG-CF if my go-to for functional stuff these days, its cheap enough now that I even use it for prototyping.

Although I've been pleasantly surprised with how nice PA6-CF is to print, drying it religiously is a bit of a PITA, but if you can overcome that hurdle it really is good stuff.

RE: Filaments

Posted by: @gb160

PETG-CF if my go-to for functional stuff these days, its cheap enough now that I even use it for prototyping.

Although I've been pleasantly surprised with how nice PA6-CF is to print, drying it religiously is a bit of a PITA, but if you can overcome that hurdle it really is good stuff.

Try PET-CF or PET-GF (note it's PET and not PETG).  The GF variants are reasonably priced and the color choices are improving. It becoming my "everyday" filament. Polymaker Fiberon Blue PET-GF15

Agree, PA is probably the best all-around filament but it's expensive and a PITA to process, pre and post. 

RE: Filaments

I do have an obsidian hot end I can change to. I was considering to use to print some spare replacement parts. This is not y first printer. I had a Ender 3 that I upgraded put dual stepper motors onas i upgraded to an all teal hot end and I put together the marlin program for it. This is however my first Prusa and my first core xy printer. 

RE: Filaments

My spelling is horrible I am sorry. The hot end was all metal and I upgraded to a a dual stepper motors to make sure the level was maintained. And I then reworked a marlin software to use on that setup. 

RE: Filaments

Posted by: @rjb2222

I do have an obsidian hot end I can change to. I was considering to use to print some spare replacement parts. This is not y first printer. I had a Ender 3 that I upgraded put dual stepper motors onas i upgraded to an all teal hot end and I put together the marlin program for it. This is however my first Prusa and my first core xy printer. 

OK. Then advice would be to pick up a spool of Prusament PC-CF in order to print replacement parts. It's also an easy filament to print as long as you don't try to print something too large (like it covers most of the sheet). 

RE:

@hyiger
I'm just about to make my first attempts with the fiberon PET-GF15. Could you give me some advise for the prusa slicer settings, as there is no preset profile for that filament? (Especially with the printspeed)

RE: Filaments

I have something a friend wants use outside mainly during the winter months. Maple Syrup Line Holders,  I'm new to printing and have a C+, Hyiger said to use ASA for things outside. I'm guessing my printer will print ASA and was curious about the differences between that an PLA/PLA+/PLA Tough+? Pro's and Cons?

RE: Filaments

My 2c, but since PRUSA jacked up filament, I have been experimenting with low cost alternative.  I tried some PETG from Creality in their Soleyin series for a project.  I have been through 3 roils and so far so good.  It was about $11 a roll.  Just my 2c.

RE:

Outdoors in winter ... @hyiger's suggestions are a good general starting point but there are other issues to consider:

Will the part be subject to both wet and freezing temperatures?  If water repeatedly gets into the lay and freezes it is likely to burst the part.

Will it be exposed to sunlight?  UV light damages most polymers sooner or later, white reflects more light but if it's critical photograph it without UV filters under UV illumination to check.  PLA surface-crazes and begins to fail in weeks - PETG is often good for two or three years although it discolours, other filaments vary. The best UV resistant light-engineering filament I have found (6+years under light load exposed on a south, sea-facing wall in the UK and no signs of failure) is Bio Pro by 3D Tomorrow, I use the Prusament PLA profile and, apart from overhangs it prints as cleanly.

But the answer to almost all outdoor print durability questions is a good coat of the appropriate paint - with a good protective layer almost all filaments last years longer.

And to answer the OP:  Buy plenty of cheap PLA.  I sometimes buy the cheapest PLA 10 or 20 spools at a time.  Why? Because you can iterate and test prototypes many times over until the final version when you switch to the filament most suitable for the part.

Cheerio,

RE: Filaments

I mostly print PLA and some PETG. I've had a Prusa orange PETG weathervane outside banging around for quite a few months now and it shows no sign any issue. Maybe in a few years, but then I'll just print another one. I find PETG can have really good layer adhesion and is stronger than it's sometimes given credit for. The more I read about carbon fiber, the more specialized I think it is. It can degrade layer adhesion, and it adds mostly stiffness and stability, not strength. For some things that's exactly what you want/need, but it's not a magic bullet. Engineering materials like nylon and polypropylene would suit some things I do, but they're harder to print and can be expensive. Sometimes I look at the price and think it's a bit steep, then I realize it's also only a 750 gram spool. I wouldn't buy anything special until you have a specific need for it.

RE: Filaments

Adding a plug here for PVB. 

It can be easily dyed and then chemically smoothed to an almost glass-like finish ( https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/postid/728831/) . I use the Polymaker Polysher for even IPA smoothing.

Prints with almost the same settings as PLA, and has a mild adherence to PLA, which means it can be used for easy, snap-off multi-material support or in a multi-material print where you want, for example, the look of a copper-like embellishment in a smooth-finished bangle.

It's hygroscopic, so you will want to dry it before using and store it in a drybox if you can.