RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
oh friend I'm not expecting you to go out of your way or anything to help me, I just appreciate all the help you guys have given me so far! It's hard communicating with vastly different time zones too. I really don't expect you to print anything and waste filament. But as for the calibration cube, I just increased the scale to 150%, the rest of the files I deleted before I started this post to clean up things. I'm pretty sure I just did easy slice, Prusament PLA filament stock setting from the app (before I understood how to change temps after nozzle heat up. Seems like temps from app setting for Prusament PLA is different from the PLA setting on the Core One itself, which is much lower and seems better)
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
I'll have to do that tomorrow, the Ambien is kicking in.
I bought a 90degree rafters square just for this, thinking I would end up needing it.
So I'll need to loosen all the belts again, won't I?
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
oh friend I'm not expecting you to go out of your way or anything to help me, I just appreciate all the help you guys have given me so far! It's hard communicating with vastly different time zones too.
That's the whole point of a forum: sharing experiences and helping each other out.
I really don't expect you to print anything and waste filament.
If you own several printers and are actively immersed in the world of 3D printing, you can't afford to think about filament consumption. Otherwise, you might as well give up this hobby and take up another one that costs just as much 😉
I've lost count of how many rolls of tape my “PRUSA XL in a modified MK4 case” project has consumed. All I know is that I enjoy bringing my ideas to life using CAD and 3D printing. When the project is finished, I'll know that I did it all by myself.
But as for the calibration cube, I just increased the scale to 150%, the rest of the files I deleted before I started this post to clean up things. I'm pretty sure I just did easy slice, Prusament PLA filament stock setting from the app (before I understood how to change temps after
As long as the belt tensions are not adjusted correctly, there will always be something wrong with the printed parts.
So I'll need to loosen all the belts again, won't I?
No, you can also check this when the belts are tensioned. It's even better, because the printer works when tensioned, and you should expect everything to be at right angles.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
https://youtube.com/shorts/_-GKJEJPLoc?feature=share
posting a youtube link to video in case it's not showing. will delete video in one week
Doesn't it pass all calibrations and homing steps in this video? So what is the remaining issue?
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Doesn't it pass all calibrations and homing steps in this video? So what is the remaining issue?
If I have understood this issue correctly, it concerns the distances between the stops on the left and right, the right angle of the rails to each other, and the belt alignment or adjustment.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Doesn't it pass all calibrations and homing steps in this video? So what is the remaining issue?
If I have understood this issue correctly, it concerns the distances between the stops on the left and right, the right angle of the rails to each other, and the belt alignment or adjustment.
Well, maybe the alignment is not picture-perfect -- the OP did mention that he had to tighten the belts a little bit asymmetrically to eliminate a tiny remaining gap. But as long as the "manual belt tuning" wizard is happy with the achieved belt tensions, and all the X/Y/Z calibrations and homing pass, I would leave it at that.
So, with all the alignments redone now -- are there still any major problems with the print quality? Has the ghosting/ringing shown in the initial post improved?
I just want to avoid endless iterations of disassembly & realignment in search of "alignment perfection". It's about getting good prints out of this thing, after all. 😉
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
In my case though, passing X and Y calibration wasn’t enough. There was still a measurable skew that manifested itself when I had to do a very large print and found screw holes that were not precisely lining up. I guess if you are printing gridfinity boxes and flexi-dragons it doesn’t matter.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
In my case though, passing X and Y calibration wasn’t enough.
With my C1+ , which I assembled myself, the two carriages on the left and right were already attached without any gaps when the belts were not mounted. When tensioning the belts, I tried to tighten them evenly. That worked well.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
With my C1+ , which I assembled myself, the two carriages on the left and right were already attached without any gaps when the belts were not mounted. When tensioning the belts, I tried to tighten them evenly. That worked well.
Yes, tightening both tension screws evenly is crucial but ultimately it comes down to accuracy and how much one is willing to forgo.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Have you tried this? https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1m31lcu/core_one_xy_calibration_problems_something_else/
this fixed the major issue I was having before all of this
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Have you tried this? https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1m31lcu/core_one_xy_calibration_problems_something_else/
this fixed the major issue I was having before all of this
Hmm... This made me slightly nervous about my printer. But after checking to the extent possible, I can't see how an M3x6 screw could interfere with the idler in the right motor mount:
I can't see the top end of the screw without major disassembly now. But I checked the thickness of the CoreXY frame (2 mm) and of the motor mount's plastic base (4 mm), both in the CAD model and in real life using calipers. The plastic part is exactly at the nominal 4 mm, the CoreXY frame is a tad thicker including the powder coating, about 2.5 mm. I also measured a couple of the spare M3x6 screws from my Core One kit, and they are actually a bit shorter, only 5.9 mm. And there is a small gap between the mounting block and the idler, about 0.8 mm, for a bit of extra clearance.
So the M3x6 screw should not be able to extend beyond the plastic block, and should certainly not be able to touch the idler wheel. Did you actually see it interfere with the idler in your printer?
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
I removed it from mine and it was a night and day difference even before I properly tuned my core one kit
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
I assembled mine too, but I don't know if I would do it again; injuries and TBIs have made my fine motor movements worse than I thought. Took me a full 24 hours to build.
Prusament PEGT Galaxy Black 230C/85Bed "brass knuckles" 100%/85%
Anyways, I think I got it down pretty good. I did use a rafting square and it was 90 degrees, just didn't take a picture.
Printer consistently passes calibrations now. Also kinda just sound like a coffee maker in the background noise of my apartment. I'll update with accelerometer tuning, but for right now I think it's as good as it's going to get with files from the printables app on my phone. Thanks for all the help and patience!
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
That sounds great. I'm glad you found a solution.
Keep fighting ( 😆) your way through the world of 3D printing.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
I think my problem, besides better alignment, was temps. I just defaulted on them and didn't look too much into it thinking the device would take care of it. I'm learning though! Prints seem to be a lot more consistent. As long as it sounding like a coffee maker percolating then I am ok. When the kit comes in, I'll relube the rail and run the accelerometer and report back.
Thanks!