RE: HOMING ISSUES
I understand the gap, which has now been almost eliminated. I do understand how CoreXY operates, the issue was the belt, as for the bending of the gantry; I read all that a while ago. I know it can be an issue.
Before this thread becomes a war, I think we just should end it here; if anyone has anything constructive to mention, go ahead whether that is tips or just general information. I know what needs to be done, and I didn't expect it to spin out of control just because the belt was slipping and I was having HOMING issues.
RE: HOMING ISSUES
@butters we are trying to help, but you are not making it easy. If you follow the instructions I posted above, you should get a successful print. But you need to read it carefully. I don't think it's particularly hard if you do things I outlined step-by-step. Since English is not your native language, maybe type out your thoughts in your own language and use google translate. A lot of the problems we seem to be having are related to communication.
RE: HOMING ISSUES
I understand the gap, which has now been almost eliminated.
Trying to understand how you eliminated the gap. Did you do it by bending the gantry by hand? Or by changing the belt tension?
RE: HOMING ISSUES
I decided to give the reply sooner rather then later, not because I'm being Black mailed. 🤨
Simply for anyone as we now begin to go into the Christmas Season that may become as frustrated as me on their new purchase a new CoreOne/+ or CoreOneL and getting the belt and harness to work.
First I will mention that I was extremely frustrated and angry with how the harness and belt system work on the Prusa Core One; although I understood from the beginning how the teeth were suppose to interlock with each other then you use the harness to screw it onto the rail. Although from the replies I received no one thought I knew how it worked, that's alright; God still loves you.
The issues was the method to which to do it. I do think Prusa should do some modifications to the Nextruder holder, I won't complain if they keep it how it is as it may be a robust method without using glues, adhesives etc which I know can be more troublesome then required. If I or someone comes up with a solid solution to this please share in this thread I'm sure others in particular myself am interested.
What I realized is first and is most important is that you have the belts looped around correctly, this is not that difficult but error can occur, the gantry should move smoothly and no grinding as others in this thread and elsewhere on Prusa community forum have mentioned. If that is the case, then onto the harness and belt.
When attaching the belt to the harness, do not pull the harness towards (Nextruder holder) you as you try to loop in the belt, this will cause the belts to slip and possible drive you to drink 😉 Then you'll have new personal issue and will spend less time on Prusa community forum and more time at alcohol anonymous (AA) meetings.
Make sure that you are looping the belt into the harness as close as against the linear rail beam possible. You will get more of the belt looping and interlocking with the teeth. I do stress that you get as much teeth looping as this should create a taught belt, meanwhile your tension pulleys should be as loose as the tension screw allows before coming off the screw.
I know others have recommended to remove the tension pulley off the screw, although this is not needed. When you tightening the tension screws, remember what I mentioned above, your tensions are as loose as the tension screw allows, therefore when you increase the tension it only needs to be a little tension. In the beginning I was tensing all the way but then again, the belt teeth were not interlocking the teeth in the loop in the harness, therefore slipping was always going to occur.
When this is all accomplished and your tensions are good, I got a measurement of 90 / 95 using Prusa belt measurement in the firmware. I can't tell you which of the two is X or Y.
I think, there is some internal settings in the firmware that check your belt tensions if they are accurate or good; otherwise the cartoon face of Josef Prusa would not appear telling you, the tensions are good and everything is ready.
It is only when you see Josef Prusa as cartoon face, smiling that you have everything successful on the LCD screen. You'll see his face in the beginning but I don't think he's smiling, he's more or less telling you; are you ready and confident to verify you did everything right ?
Once again, when Mr.Prusa himself comes on as a cartoon face smiling and telling you, you're tensions are good, basically as the common saying goes; "you're good to go". And I can't stress how crucial the belt accuracy is, it is only when you get frustrated and angry to a point and disassembled your Nextruder; once, twice, five times; eight times etc, that you come to realize all this. On the plus side I got the nextruder cable connections memorized including the heat sink cables and where they go on the love board. 🙂
That is my experience, maybe someone or Mr.Prusa himself will read this. I didn't buy his printer cause I thought they're lousy, and I'm not buying INDX cause it's lousy, like some other brands. I bought it cause it's robust and reliability; I just didn't expect this level of frustration and angry to be part of the package 🤔 😉 😔
Would I trade in assembly for preassembled, no way. I enjoyed the learning experience, I know how Mr.Prusa develops his printers. I can't speak for other brands as I was essentially trained on understanding Prusa. I'm sure other brands are not too much different but their internal workings may be ?
And finally, I'm here to learn how to use and print with Prusa printers, if my comments do not fall in-line with what you like you have that choice of not responding, if you respond then you choose on your own that maybe I like others, are eager to understand but the situation at the time is just frustrating. Taking it personally is not something I or anyone should do on an online forum for the most part.
RE: HOMING ISSUES
Yeah I think this is why they're moving away from kits 😂
RE: HOMING ISSUES
where do you think the EMI is entering in the printer?
RE: HOMING ISSUES
where do you think the EMI is entering in the printer?
It would be helpful if you quote (part of) the post you are referring to, especially if it is not a recent one.
I am assuming you are referring to the potential interference issue which gets in the way of Z probing? Only some Core One printers seem to suffer from it, and some affected users have successfully resolved the issue by twisting the heater power wires in the main cable harness to the Nextruder. (A rather invasive modification -- consider it only if you are pretty sure that this is the issue you are dealing with.) So it seems plausible that the pulsed heater current interferes with the signals that are transferred from the Nextruder to the main electronics in the back.
XY homing problems, which are discussed in the bulk of this thread, are typically not an EMI issue. When the printer struggles with XY homing and does endless "head banging" in the front right corner, that is most likely due to the X gantry not hitting the end stops at the front left & right at the same time. Prusa's belt tensioning guide explains how to get this right.
RE: HOMING ISSUES
This is not entirely true, not everyone's issue is the same. I have the homing issue on 1 of my CoreOne's. And it only has the homing issue when the heater is on. If you turn the heater off, there is no homing issue. If it were a gantry or belt issue, why does it only happen when the heater is on?
RE: HOMING ISSUES
This is not entirely true, not everyone's issue is the same. I have the homing issue on 1 of my CoreOne's. And it only has the homing issue when the heater is on. If you turn the heater off, there is no homing issue. If it were a gantry or belt issue, why does it only happen when the heater is on?
Hence the word "typically" in my post.😊 Gantry alignment and belt tension seem to be the more common reason by far, so I would definitely advise to address those first when troubleshooting XY homing issues.
Your observation suggests that heater interference can occur -- although I really struggle to imagine how the heater could crosstalk into the stepper motor currents which are sensed during XY homing. The respective wires are routed totally separately all the way; maybe it's a power supply issue, or bad connection to the power supply? Have you looked into finding and addressing the root cause? Did Prusa support suggest anything?
RE: HOMING ISSUES
It has been a while since I looked at it. Have not had time. Been using my XL and other CoreOne for the time being. There was talk of Prusa making firmware changes to address the issue at one point. Have not checked if they did anything yet. Was able to print with it by using the alternate start g-code which turns the heater off during homing.