life adjust Z - my way  

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@1agkirk2

Thank you. 
I try to help!

It is rewarding to know that what I say helps explain issues more understandably

regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@jeffjordan

Can I use your S3D gcode to do live Z adjust on PRUSA MINI?  I am not familiar enough with the

differences in gcode for different printers.

Thanks

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Posted by: @d-director

Can I use your S3D gcode to do live Z adjust on PRUSA MINI?  I am not familiar enough with the

The posted gcode is for the dimensions of the Mk3, but I believe somebody (Joan perhaps?) has pre-compiled a version for the Mini. I've attached a couple of gcode test patterns for the Mini, but I have no Mini to test this on.

In the meantime, just print the Prusa logo gcode sample and observe the 1st layer as it goes down and raise/lower Live-Z according to these instructions. Better yet, slice the 75x75x0.2mm square in PrusaSlicer and print it.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@d-director

these are not S3d, 
but may help you. they are similar to Jeff Jordan's files. 

regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@joantabb

Thanks for the reply, I sliced a small rectangular first layer test that I found, used live z adjust during printing and I am now good to go.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Posted by: @heavens

I had some troubles with PETG on the textured plate so I thought I'd share my experiences here:

1. Make sure the bed is clean (my Prusament PETG is extremely picky on my not really level bed)
2. Temperatures matter, keep that in mind. Printing hotter for me means I need to move my Z up slightly. I'd recommend sticking to the recommended value first before tinkering (240°C on first layer according to Prusa Slicer / Prusament PETG)
3. Start high
   This is important, I had exteme issues because I calibrated with PLA and was way too close when printing with PETG.
   It looked okay on some parts of the bed while on others it ripped the first layer off like crazy.
   Take your time and if you're not sure start dialing in the values above the sticking distance.
4. Take your time
   I had to go do steps of about 0.02mm at a time, as my bed is nowhere near level (hello nylock mod soon™) my tolerance for a good first layer is about +/- 0.01mm. Go too high and it lifts off, go any lower and I get smears and blobs.

 

Hope this helps 😀

I jumped straight into PETG without doing PLA. I am having this same issue with the textured bed. The PETG I have is Hatchbox. Could you explain a bit to me about this process? I'm assuming that this live Z adjust method in this post is done by printing directly on the heat bed? It literally says DO NOT PRINT ON HEAT BED so I'm a little confused about this.

Second, what is the nylock method?

You made mention about making sure the bed is clean. All I have done so far is wipe it down with 99% IPA. Did you have to end up washing it with Dawn or use any Acetone (I know they don't recommend using it on these coated sheets).

I am a machinist of 11 years and new to 3D printing. I have a lot to learn and trying to get the first layer correct is proving WAY more involved/important then I thought haha =p. All about learning though, so I'm all ears to you good sir.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@joantabb

Why is it that, every time I find a solution to my 3D printing problems, you provide the answer? You were the first person that helped me even before I went with Prusa. My second printer, a Mini Plus, has been outperforming my MK3S. I have never given the smooth plate the soap and water treatment. Six months of junk now removed. IPA was obvious unable to spread it evenly enough. Thank you again...

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@marco99

You may just be lucky...

🙂

Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@vitae-essence

Do not use acetone on textured bed(powder coated bed).

Clean bed with dish soap, use a lot of hot water, do this a few times.

Alcohol does not clean everything.

If you clean with water, print after this to dry plate, other whise it will have corrosion.

Pla on powder coated bed, clean with dish soap every print, or use glue stick.

Petg on powder coated bed you could do a few times with alcohol, and then clean with dish soap.

Exceptions: models with small foot print to the bed, and big flat models, use glue stick, for warping.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Thank you so much Jeff.  I update my firmware earlier this week and literately spent the last two days (16hrs) trying to get my first layer calibration to work.  The build in calibration is just awful.

I was able to dial in my prints after about two sessions with your gcode and ran a few extra just for good measure and got a successful benchy on my first post calibration test.

Im storing this gcode test in a super safe location for future use. 

Thank you again. 

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Hi,

I have had the Original Prusa Mini for the last six weeks. It was printing reasonably well until 3 days ago. It started clicking and not extruding properly. First layer was not sticking to the bed. I cleaned the extruder gear area; cleaned the nozzle and replaced the the small PFTE tube following all the instructions at Prusa online guide. Then I saw this user forum and printed the 75x75mm square to set the live Adjust Z.

I have live adjust Z at -0.115. Print out of Square is as below. Not sure if this is OK. Not sure if it is safe to go below this number for Z.

Please advise. I have cleaned the Smooth sheet thoroughly with dishwasher soap a couple of times Still the printer is not able to print circles properly; filament not sticking to bed; nozzle seems to be dragging the filament string.

I am a newbie to 3D printing. Appreciate any and all help from experienced users.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

No that's not OK. I think it needs to be lower.

Check out this link.

I followed these instructions, lowered until I had a uniform print using live Z adjust.

Perfect after that.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@valady-nagarajan

Try these files for the Mini... they are similar to the originals, but print in the centre of the Mini Build plate! 

Prusa Mini files

regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Hello Joan.

Thanks for your prompt reply. I actually printed the above 75mm square at the center of the bed from the files given by you for Mini.

I had thoroughly washed the smooth sheet with dishwashing soap and dried the same clean before printing. I shall try to lower the Z value further and try.

Wish me Good Luck.

Thanks

Valady

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Good Luck Valady. 
regards Joan

PLEASE NOTE these values are for MY Printer,    Your Values will be different
But the relationship will be indicative... Start the print, then as it prints, you can adjust the live Z, "LIVE" in real time... and see what the changes are. if you start off high, which i believe is the present state, you should see the surface change from loose and lumpy, to orderly separate lines, then to orderly strings, then merging strings, merged smooth topped strings, and as the live Z progresses past the sweet spot, the top surface will start to go rough, and if you continue increasing Live Z, the surface will deteriorate and become rippled....     if you get that far, reduce the live Z until the surface becomes smooth again. and you should be about right...    if you now look at the underside of the test print, you should see a nice smooth surface or a nice even textured surface if the build plate is textured... 
Good Luck! 

Regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Hello Joan,

Thanks for your advice. I increased the Live Adj  Z to -0.600. I am getting good first layer now.

But then I started getting ticking noise in the extruder and under extrusion from the nozzle. I inspected the gears in the extruder and everything was clean there, Removed the bowden tube and completed a couple of times Cold Pull. But the problem of under extrusion persisted. Removed the small PTFE tube from the hotend and did a couple more cold pull as per Prusa Guide. Nozzle area was clean. Then tried to loosen the three grub screws to adjust the compression of the PTFE tube. ( Unfortunately Prusa did not supply 1.5mm allen key in the accessory kit, though there was 2.5mm allen key and 10mm spanner. I purchased 1.5mm allen key and tried to loosen the grub screws, but they would not budge. Tried with chrome vanadium steel allen key. No luck loosening the grub screws. I read somewhere else someone tried to use 1/16 inch (1.5875mm) allen key. Yes 1/16" allen key worked for me. I adjusted the compreession of the ptfe tube, tightened the grub screws. Adjusted the MINDA probe using a credit card and restarted the printer. Now the printer started working and has been on last 24 hours and has made more than 6 prints.

It was very useful for me to visit this forum

Wish You All a Happy New Year 2021.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

@valady-nagarajan

Excellent news, 

those Grub Screws are fragile, some folk replace them with standard cap head screws

regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Hi all! 

Thanks for the awesome z calibration square! My prints are looking good but now I'm getting really picky 🙂 

I tried searching through this thread (a little tricky..) and couldn't find an answer 

Is there a reason for the 225 nozzle temp on the PLA? The stock settings for PLA are 215 nozzle and 60 bed temp. This file has 225/55. I'm guessing these settings are for us to play with depending on the PLA we get?

OR! Is there a good reason to be using the 225/55 profile for the prusament pla? 

I'm also curious, with this 75x75mm test layer.. I get a thickness of 0.21mm for the "infill" on the first layer. but the boarder is around 0.17mm. Is this expected? Should I be shooting for 0.2mm with the infill and ignore the outer layer? next I was going to try the 20x20mm cube with zero infill and 2x wall

Thanks! 

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Hi Clownfish, 
these files were created without access to a Mini to test them, these are 'Get you going' files... 

Once your printer is in the right area, you are free to play with setting as you wish... 

Earlier today a user wanted to be able to print something  at 110C   (the prusa won't do that normally) (I don't know what he was printing)

I showed a start Gcode that I had used for filament that printed at 170C which also will not print reliably without changes, and I showed where the changes need to be  made for the lower temperature...   

without changes, the Prusa should try and extrude filament from a touch over 170C to your printers max temperature...   without changes to the low print temp  setting (which covers most commercial filaments)

the Prusa Mini profiles in Prusa Slicer, are a good place to start. 

regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Thanks Joan!  Lots of your posts have been helping me dial in my printer! 

I was using the files in the first post of this thread for the i3. Since they seemed to be PLA calibration settings I was curious if there was a reason for the different temps. But sounds like no particular reason! I've been tweaking the 75x75 file and things are looking good!