I want to wire 5 separate sensors

Posted by: @brian-12

 

Posted by: @per-s

I figured I just bypassed the whole sensor and made a Y-splitter for #4 when printing TPU. Turn off the sensor in the settings, or, as I did before 6.0, put a piece of filament into the sensor when printing TPU. Of course, you have to pay attention to the remaining amount of filament on the spool, etc.

https://www.printables.com/model/864220-bowden-y-splitter-for-xl

The printer will still stop like normal even if you bypass the side sensor.  The filament sensor on the print head will stop the printer.  You just have to disconnect the Bowden tube from the print head to pull out the little remaining piece of filament left over after it runs out. 

I've bypassed the side sensors all together and just 3d printed a plug to put in the side sensor.  I've been running this way for 3 months now without issue.  I've done many many roll changes. 

I read your post and I'm doing the same now.  Its actually even better than that.  If the filament sensor on the print head triggers, its because I'm in the middle of a print, and I can just add another spool of the same color and now zero material waster.

Im running a longer PTFE tube to my material station and the friction on the first sensor was annoying and concerning.  Loading is so much easier now without it.

Posted by: @per-s

I figured I just bypassed the whole sensor and made a Y-splitter for #4 when printing TPU. Turn off the sensor in the settings, or, as I did before 6.0, put a piece of filament into the sensor when printing TPU. Of course, you have to pay attention to the remaining amount of filament on the spool, etc.

https://www.printables.com/model/864220-bowden-y-splitter-for-xl

The printer will still stop like normal even if you bypass the side sensor.  The filament sensor on the print head will stop the printer.  You just have to disconnect the Bowden tube from the print head to pull out the little remaining piece of filament left over after it runs out. 

I've bypassed the side sensors all together and just 3d printed a plug to put in the side sensor.  I've been running this way for 3 months now without issue.  I've done many many roll changes. 

https://www.printables.com/model/864220-bowden-y-splitter-for-xl

1. Open up and get the springs of filament sensor.

2. Measure the length of spring with caliper and note the length.

3. Take spring lengthwise between pliers and compress the spring to the length, wires touch each other.

4. Measure the spring again. Best is if it is now shorter about 1-1.5 mm compared to original length.

5.  Insert spring and check that that ball moves and comes back to original position with weakened force.

By doing it one spring at a time, you can compare the pressure and reach levels of your preference. Now my PETG moves without vibration and noises.

Doing this there is danger of damaging the spring to the level, it can not be used any more. So if you plan to do the same, take your time and some care. 

A.  Weaker push: Weaker spring

B. Weaker push: Magnetic pull or push

C. Slippery surface: Opposing  side covered with some other material than typical printing filaments.

Will test and see what option works to get PETG moving, then post here.

FWIW - I have remixed the magnetic sensor model on printables to use the more common "M10" fittings and print the filament path in a better direction.

https://www.printables.com/model/860920-prusa-xl-magnetic-filament-sensor-remix-for-print/files

so far it works great with much less friction.

Good luck!

I have also learned that it helps a lot to use a brass nozzle for flex filament. In all of my other machines I usually switch the standard brass nozzle for a hardened steel so I never have to worry about them wearing out or changing them when switching to more abrasive materials. Unfortunately with the XL this was causing extrusion issues with many retractions in a short period of time. Fortunately with the XL (and MK4), it is really easy to change out the nozzle assembly and not need to recalibrate Z height. 

With the combination of the filament sensor mods and these new nextruder guide parts I can now reliably print Ninja Flex. Here are a few pictures of the different settings below. I was able to print with almost default settings, just had to adjust the extrusion multiplier slightly. I may still slow down the max volumetric speed.

In the test print card the numbers are: first is the max volumetric speed (mm3/s), second is the extrusion multiplier, third number is the added nozzle temp above default, and last is the fan speed (60% was default).

The bottom row was just for the extruder used and the version of Nextruder parts used in the test. My extruders #1 through #4 all had similar results where they could print the base of the test card but not so much the text using 0.4mm steel nozzles. Somehow my extruder #5 was able to print pretty well with the steel nozzle and filled in the text at the 1.5mm3/sec rate but nothing higher than that.

Note that if you use the Molex cable with the original pinout, the printer will fail to boot, reporting that power panic was detected during initialization. However, all fine once cable sorted.