RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
There are many versions of the M3 3030 nuts available and I bought several, that do not fit (too loose or too big).
These ones work fit very good: https://www.ebay.de/itm/265577061268
Check the dimensions if you buy somewhere else.
Do they have m3? Those are m4
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
M3's not so much. M4's yeah. However far cheaper at Ali express:
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
A few wanted to see the Marine phone and drink caddy after it was completed. I added the feet to the the caddy then acetone treated the entire piece. I find brushing the acetone on with a 2 inch foam brush works the best. You have to be fast!! I normally do one pass the let it dry which only takes a few minutes then acetone treat it again. I like 3 passes.
I like the ASA filiment. It prints really good, you can sand it lightly, plus it really acetone polishes nicely. It is also heat resistant, UV resistant, and for the most part chemical resistant.
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
Hey there, just curious how you mounted the Nevermore V6 to the side of your enclosure.
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
Hey there, just curious how you mounted the Nevermore V6 to the side of your enclosure.
There are mounting holes with inserts on one side. I drilled the acrylic then mounted it to the acrylic panel.
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plus it really acetone polishes nicely.
I always wanted to try that, could you share your procedure? Do you wipe it, spray it or put it in a closed chamber? Does it behave very differently compared to ABS?
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I have tried all the ways you mentioned. It depends on the finish you want. If you want something like a matt with a slightly shiny finish the vapor finishing works well. If you want a somewhat shiny finish the misting works well. If you want a super shiny finish I like to brush the acetone on with a foam brush.
1. Lightly sand the part with 220 grit. You can also use a palm sander.
2. Make sure to blow all the dust off the part.
3. Brush on the acetone with a foam brush. Be careful not to brush over the sections you just did while they are damp. It only takes about 5 minutes for the acetone to evaporate off the part.
4. Repeat as needed. I alternate the direction for each acetone pass. I like 3 passes. All 3 passes on the part above took less than 30 minutes
Note do not soak the foam brush. You only need a little on the end of the foam. This will prevent the acetone from running.
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@MME Amazing work! I enjoyed reading through your entire thread, and if I decide to keep my pre-order (for my dual head XL) I'm definitely going to be looking for the STLs.
I'm bummed to hear about your challenges in the 50c+ zone, and I'm watching this thread hoping you solve this latest challenge. Based on the level of skill and thoroughness you've shown with your enclosure, I'm sure you'll come up with a solution.
I'm also very interested in printing large ABS/ASA (as well as PA and PC), and I've really pushed my MK3S+ to it's limit trying to do the same. On the MK3S+ I've built an actively heated enclosure which also works great until you try to push past the mid 40C'S. I've had the extruder idler door warp (this is the first thing to "fail" - like just into the 50C's), and then the PINDLE sensor holder warped so bad the head crashed into the build plate (in the mid to high 50C's). I fixed both problems by printing the all the hot end parts out of PA - as best I could with the enclosure just under 50C. The parts weren't perfect (being PA12 not having a hot enough enclosure), but just good enough to assemble the hot-end with the PA printed parts. I can now get into the low 60C's when printing, but it's hit-or-miss. Sometimes I get a really bad layer shift and I found I have to turn off the crash detection because it becomes very sensitive at higher enclosure temps (I'm not sure why). I've also had to revert back to an older driver to prevent the printer for thinking there is a thermal runaway.
Anyway, the reason I shared all that ^ is I realized that printing above 47-48C is just beyond the design limits of the MK3S+ - and when I saw your challenges with the filament or 50C, I got worried the XL parts may not be able to handle much higher temps. One thing I learned is working outside of the original design parameters makes things exponentially more challenging. Good luck! I'm rooting for you!
In my farm, I use all heated enclosures and manufacture primarily in Polycarbonate (and some PC-CF). Prusa provides ALL print files for every part, so the first thing I did (which was a PitA), was to reprint EVERY single part of every MK3S+ and MK4 using Polycarbonate and Carbon Fiber reinforced Polycarbonate (depending on the mechanical needs of the part). To do this, I made a temporary enclosure to get one batch of prints to come out, then made the first heated enclosure and then printed the rest of the farms parts with that first heated enclosure.
My manufacturing process also involves annealing and tumbling. The moment the print completes, I move the entire plate with parts still hot into an annealing oven and bring them to temp and then hold them there and finally reduce the temp over time. Letting parts rapidly cool creates internal stresses that get "frozen" into that state once the part cools, which causes stress (similar in metallurgy and annealing). Then depending on the part and finish requirements I have an Industrial tumbler, that I run the parts through with a custom blend of abrasives. Many times this knocks off supports and any small stuff (like stringing if any), plus it makes for a nice matte finish and all but erases layer lines (PC-CF when tumbled looks as close to an injection molded part as you can get without sanding and filling in).
But I would highly recommend if you want to push your enclosure to 60-80*C, to first reprint every single part. Above 60 and you will need to replace all wiring with silicone sheathed wires. Also, your controller boards will need some help, possibly even relocation outside of the enclosure, depending on how hot you want to take things (it is probably possible to add liquid cooling to it, if you want to keep it in the enclosure.
But 60*C is fairly straight forward to reach.
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
Thanks for sharing the info @Hangs4Fun! That's very interesting about being able to polish PC-CF. I've got a vibratory polisher from Eastwood that I used for old motorcycle parts... now I'm wondering if I could polish printed parts with it 🙂
I just did the MK4 upgrade on my MK3+, and I thought about printing all the parts in PC since you have to print the parts anyway with the upgrade kit, but I decided to just focus on my XL and keep the MK4 "stock", so to speak.
I think the XL may be a little easier to get it to work with a heated enclosure as many of the operational parts in the printer are already printed out of PC-CF (like the idler pully blocks for the belts and I believe the printed parts in the toolhead picker). Some of the Nextruder parts will need to be printed in PC, but after putting together the Nextruder on my MK4 upgrade kit, that looks pretty straight forward... and as you said, all the STL files are online.
Also, the power supply and "buddy board" for the XL is on the back/outside of the printer. So unlike the MK3/MK4, I won't have to remove the power supply(ies) and don't have to worry about overheating the controller board (or, at least it should be a lot easier to keep those cool).
What I'm not sure about is how well the electronics board on the Nextruder will hold up to high temperatures.... but I'm thinking 60C should be doable/safe. I might have to research the MK4 discussions to see if there are any other considerations for running the Nextruder in a heated enclosure. I'm also not sure if I'll need to reprint the XL print head holders (I think those are made out of PTEG). They're just for print heads to sit while not in use, but if they warp it may cause problems with the tool head picker not being aligned correctly. And, of course, there's the issue of increased filament drag in the ptfe tubes that @MME ran into... but I'm up for the challenge.
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
Hey everyone! Been absent the past few weeks doing my favorite thing to do (tax stuff etc etc) cough cough!
I have just started a large project (dimension wise). The project is a large hanging platform for a large ultrasonic. The dimensions on the build plate is 360mm X 360mm x 30mm. There will be no brim on this ASA part so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. 🤞🤞
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
Hey everyone! Been absent the past few weeks doing my favorite thing to do (tax stuff etc etc) cough cough!
I have just started a large project (dimension wise). The project is a large hanging platform for a large ultrasonic. The dimensions on the build plate is 360mm X 360mm x 30mm. There will be no brim on this ASA part so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. 🤞🤞
Watching... very interested to see how this turns out. Looks like a very challenging print... Good luck!
What brand of ASA are you using, and what's the enclosure temp you're at for this print?
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
Hey everyone! Been absent the past few weeks doing my favorite thing to do (tax stuff etc etc) cough cough!
I have just started a large project (dimension wise). The project is a large hanging platform for a large ultrasonic. The dimensions on the build plate is 360mm X 360mm x 30mm. There will be no brim on this ASA part so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. 🤞🤞
Watching... very interested to see how this turns out. Looks like a very challenging print... Good luck!
What brand of ASA are you using, and what's the enclosure temp you're at for this print?
I am using Prusament Jet Black ASA. The enclosure temp is started around 38C and I will hold it there throughout the print.
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
Only 12 more hours to go. Really looking good so far. Temp holding at 38C with half of the front panels fully open. Full bed heat really cranks up the temp.
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
This print finished last night. I was very surprised it finished without issues. This part had no brim and no supports. It was printed upside down and had over 50 separate contact points on the first layer. I really thought some of those small contact points might come loose during printing because of the large footprint and being print with ASA.
RE: Ideas to make enclosure for XL Multi Tool
I have followed your design/print pretty much from the beginning and was inspired by your printer enclosure. I am in the process of trying to replicate your print, but it would save me some headaches if you would share additional details regarding your design. For example, I believe you said the front of the enclosure was made up of six parts. Would you mind sharing the dimensions of each of the parts for the front? Also, if you could add dimensions for the top parts, that would also be very helpful.