RE: My XL is now called Sir Clog-a-lot after upgrades. Any ideas?
Did you replace the idler door and latch with PCCF parts? So you still have preload on the doors?
I have not. I'm just getting started trying to figure this issue out. I just put my 4th new nozzle in and am printing now but this is getting old.
Can I buy those parts or will I need to figure out how to print them? I'm assuming this is going to help the drive gears shove material through it? I still don't understand why these nozzles plug up so high above the tip. I can run a needle up the nozzle several times but can't get new filament to feed from the top.
Electrical Engineer/Drafter
RE:
Do you have an enclosure? What happens is the original PETG parts deform if they get too hot and lose preload so the filament does not get enough pressure against the main drive gear.
You can buy the parts from Prusa, or get some PCCF and print them yourself(assuming you have a working printer.) The parts are on Printables. The Prusa PCCF prints really easy and I had no issue using the Prusament profile.
The new door also has more preload than the original door.
If you have an enclosure I'd recommend replacing all the parts Prusa does when you buy the enclosure.
- idler door and latch
- Part cooling fan duct
- XY belt clamps
I personally reprinted all of the plastic parts with PCCF. It's a bunch more work to do that, and not needed, but since I had a entire roll I decided to.
I ran fine for almost a year until I did a large ASA print and I started having issues. I discovered that my idler door had lost almost all preload. Changing the parts fixed the issue.
RE:
Yes, I do have the enclosure...and I did not replace all the drive belt parts when I put it together since they said I didn't need to since my XL was made after a certain date. I'll try replacing the idler door and latch as you said. Thanks for the info. I do have a working MK3 next to it so maybe I can print them on there. I need to get into the CF filaments anyway so maybe that will push me to learn something new as well. Appreciate the info!
What I don't get is that once they clog, they are uncloggable....even with pressure by hand or tools.
Electrical Engineer/Drafter
RE: My XL is now called Sir Clog-a-lot after upgrades. Any ideas?
Yes, I do have the enclosure...and I did not replace all the drive belt parts when I put it together since they said I didn't need to since my XL was made after a certain date. I'll try replacing the idler door and latch as you said. Thanks for the info. I do have a working MK3 next to it so maybe I can print them on there. I need to get into the CF filaments anyway so maybe that will push me to learn something new as well. Appreciate the info!
What I don't get is that once they clog, they are uncloggable....even with pressure by hand or tools.
If the clog gets above the heat break it's nearly impossible to clear. Some have had success with torching them and burning the filament out. But in my opinion for the cost of a nozzle I'd just throw it out. It's not worth possibly having more clogs if all of the filament didn't get burned out.
Was your XL built after June? If not then likely your parts are PETG. The PETG parts are black and the PCCF ones are more of a gray color.
RE: My XL is now called Sir Clog-a-lot after upgrades. Any ideas?
Well, I thought it was since we bought it after June....but maybe it wasn't. Here's the serial. I'm googling trying to find how to get the date out of the SN. Assuming 24 means 2024 and then 02 means feb? So...maybe I need to swap that stuff. The drive belt swap looked like a mess to a newb when I got the enclosure so I opted not to swap it all.
Electrical Engineer/Drafter
RE: My XL is now called Sir Clog-a-lot after upgrades. Any ideas?
Well, I thought it was since we bought it after June....but maybe it wasn't. Here's the serial. I'm googling trying to find how to get the date out of the SN. Assuming 24 means 2024 and then 02 means feb? So...maybe I need to swap that stuff. The drive belt swap looked like a mess to a newb when I got the enclosure so I opted not to swap it all.
The belt swap is super easy, just loosen both belt tension screws 2 turns. Change the belt retainers, then tighten them back up 2 turns.
Not sure on the serial number, and it's hard to tell from the pictures, but your Nextruder cover is for sure PETG, but it's hard to tell on your idler door.