A couple of questions before I order.  

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You do not have to fill it all the way if you use the basket instead of connecting the build plate to the underside of the lid. If you do use the lid attachment method you have to fill it to about 1-2 inches from the top. The weight when filled is about 6-7 pounds, or about 3 kilograms. If you have trouble moving the tank in and out of the machine you can choose to use the CW1 as a single-purpose device, either washing or curing. For example, you can leave the tank in place and use it just for washing then use a separate device for curing. There are similar wash/cure stations from other manufacturers for much less than the CW1, some work better with washing but the CW1 is the best curing machine I have found.

Thanks.

This is good news that there is a basket option. I'm leaning strongly towards buying. Thanks. 

Carbon filter for fumes?

I have another question. I am also considering the Elegoo Mars 2 or 2 Pro but reviewers point out that the carbon filter for the fumes is not easily replaceable which would be an issue.  Is the filter on the SL1s designed to be reasonably easily replaceable?

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If you have delicate models, you can simply leave them attached to the build plate and place it all in the basket without the need to fill the tank to the top. That way nothing will be broken by the gentle currents of the stirrer.

@gnat, let's try to stay on-topic. We all know you dislike the SL1 / CW1. But answering this question with "Based on my experience, I'm rather down on the SL1 and can't really recommend it..." is totally not helping anyone. It's okay if you don't like things, but there are threads that are more appropriate for your rants.

Compared to Elegoo Mars.

Thanks, Bioluminous for your msg. I did not have permission to reply, I suppose because I haven't been on the forum long enough? You said you like the SL1 better than the other resin printers you have, including the Elegoo Mars, which I am also considering. In what ways it is better? 

With the SL1, you can use PrusaSlicer to prep prints. With most of the other resin printers (except maybe the really, really expensive ones) they use software called Chitubox to prep the prints. So with the Elegoo Mars, there currently is no way to use PrusaSlicer except as a kind of workaround - you have to prep in PrusaSlicer, export the plate as an STL, then import into Chitubox. That is actually the way I've been working with all of my other non-Prusa resin printers. Chitubox is okay software, but compared to PrusaSlicer I think it's much less refined and has less features.

Hardware-wise, the SL1 construction uses very high-end components and is built extremely well. Same with the CW1. The Mars is a mass-produced machine that is priced low because the components are lower cost. It can produce similar prints to the SL1 though.

What I like better with the SL1 compared with the Mars:
- The cover is easier to use on the SL1. On the Mars you have to remove the whole top and have a space to put it
- The tanks and screws are easier to use on the SL1
- The display is sooo much better on the SL1
- There are many more features on the SL1 like a resin sensor that tells you when you need to add more, charcoal filter, exhaust fans, etc.
- Just being able to use PrusaSlicer is worth it for me - the time saved not having to deal with the Chitubox software is big
- At the end of the day, I can rely on the SL1 to deliver my prints. Not saying I never had any problems, but once I figured out how to work in resin (coming from purely filament FDM printers) I rarely have a failed print.

Ease of carbon filter replacement.

This is very helpful. I looked at the manual and found that the Sl1S carbon filter is accessible to inspect or replace with an allen wrench, which the Elegoo is not, so the Elegoo is no longer an option for me. 

Posted by: @bioluminous

If you have delicate models, you can simply leave them attached to the build plate and place it all in the basket without the need to fill the tank to the top. That way nothing will be broken by the gentle currents of the stirrer.

Interesting thought, have you actually done this with success? There have been times where I didn't use the top of the wash pan and just placed the plate directly in. It wouldn't go very far before it wedged itself in place. I think it maybe only went down 3-4 inches if I recall correctly and while it would allow you to reduce the level of the wash medium, it wouldn't be too much.

If you are instead talking about turning the platform on end and placing it in the basket, the current is still strong enough (especially closer to the bottom and when there is less liquid) to move it if not placed just right. Additionally, in regards to the wash medium level either you would still need a significant amount (e.g. most of the basin being full) or you would have to limit your prints to the sides of the platform.

I think that could certainly work for some situations, but I'd still be concerned about delicate piece as could be expected for jewelry work.

@gnat, let's try to stay on-topic. We all know you dislike the SL1 / CW1. But answering this question with "Based on my experience, I'm rather down on the SL1 and can't really recommend it..." is totally not helping anyone. It's okay if you don't like things, but there are threads that are more appropriate for your rants.

I'm sorry you don't care for my opinion, but it is fact based information and there is no ranting in that post. It is also quite relevant when someone says they are in the consideration phase. Had the post been "I bought a SL1/CW1 and I'm having trouble with the weight of the full tank", then I would absolutely agree that my opinion would have been off topic and I wouldn't have posted it.

RE: A couple of questions before I order.

Posted by: @bioluminous

With the SL1, you can use PrusaSlicer

This was the main thing that decided me on the SL1. There is Lychee now as an optional slicer for other models rather than using Chitubox, but I still find Lychee to be complicated and buggy to use. Prusa has done a great job of making PS and the SL1 just work really well and smoothly together.

- There are many more features on the SL1 like a resin sensor that tells you when you need to add more, charcoal filter, exhaust fans, etc.

The Pro models of the Mars have the exhaust fan and filter too (at least they did this time last year when I was in the market). I'm not sure the value you as they (SL1 too) only run the fan while it is printing, so if the printer sits for a bit after it is done you will still get a face full of fumes. Seems like it would be desirable to have the fan always running...

- Just being able to use PrusaSlicer is worth it for me - the time saved not having to deal with the Chitubox software is big

I agree 100%. Already being familiar with PS from FDM printing made moving to SLA much easier and moving back and forth when slicing for the different printers is dead simple. Definitely a well thought out workflow.

- At the end of the day, I can rely on the SL1 to deliver my prints. 

I agree with this too. When I finally got past my initial issues with bad parts and then the leaking tanks, it is dead simple to slice and get a successful print. Much like with the MK3 vs other FDMs I find myself scratching my head at all the trouble people seem to have with other SLA printers as my normal experience (like with my MK3) is slice -> print -> perfect result.

Gotcha...

Jewelry tends to be small things so the suggestion of keeping it attached to the build plate works great in my case, and with the tank only halfway filled. Also, I never had any delicate part break because it was loose in the basket. That would have to be some powerful mixing action. Did I miss the turbo button on my CW1 🤣 

Again, trying to stay on the actual topic of the original question. To say that your comments are relevant because someone has yet to purchase just makes it seem like you are going out of your way to dissuade as many people as possible from purchasing anything Prusa. Again, we all get that you are unhappy. But c'mon, it's time someone spoke up about being tired of hearing the same thing that does nothing to add to the topic or forum in general.

But you be you though...

Resin

I would be printing mainly in white or off-white and painting with an airbrush. What brand of resin do you prefer?

This is very helpful. I looked at the manual and found that the Sl1S carbon filter is accessible to inspect or replace with an allen wrench, which the Elegoo is not, so the Elegoo is no longer an option for me. 

Yes, the filter is easily accessible. Replacements are a little expensive for what it is - 40 USD. I printed a replacement filter and fill it up with bulk activated charcoal pellets a couple times a year to save some money. I also have an exhaust fan that attaches with magnets to the filter output to route fumes directly outside. At first I was bothered by the fumes. I don't know if the formulations have changed but the smell no longer bothers me as much.

I would be printing mainly in white or off-white and painting with an airbrush. What brand of resin do you prefer?

I use mainly Siraya Tech resins. They're very reliable and clean. Smell is not too bad either. If you install PrusaSlicer on your computer and select the SL1 for the printer, you can see all of the profiles that are built-in for all of the different resins. There aren't very many profiles made for the SL1S yet, but making a profile and calibrating it is much easier than FDM tuning. So you can really use any resin you want.

Have you ever tried casting jewelry? You can print in a casting resin that you can use as a mold for making metal jewelry. The resin burns away cleanly leaving a perfect mold!

RE: Casting

I have not done any casting but what an intriguing idea. Jewelry seems to be as much about the materials used --metals and gems--as it is about the artistry of the design. 

What do you print with your SL1?

Another question: is it feasible to do print-in-place models with moving parts? Articulated figures and hinges and such? 

Articulated works

I have never even tried doing any articulated parts before so I tried a couple. First was an octopus that I had to shrink down too much which resulted in the joints fusing just like they would on FDM. Then I tried a caterpillar at 100% size and it worked well. I think especially with print-in-place articulated models, if you are able to print directly on the plate without supports everything works perfectly like it would on FDM, just with drastically greater resolution. As long as there are no islands inside the joints (and there typically isn't, just bridges which work fine) there should be no problem printing articulated models. If you're designing models yourself, I think the only thing you need to think about is making sure the joints will not require any supports because they'll be impossible to remove.

Here's the caterpillar. Siraya Tech mix of different colors, .05 layer height, no supports or pad.

Print-in_place

Oh, the possibilities. The hamster wheel in my head is spinning. Thanks again. 

Do it!

I've sure been happy with mine.  I wasn't so sure about how I was going to like the whole resin-and-alcohol thing, but it's honestly pretty easy once you get used to it!

I'm planning to...

Thanks! I am about 97% percent certain I will order. Right now I am waiting on the sample prints that I ordered to get here. 

Sample prints are wow.

My sample prints were delivered today. Absolutely astonishing. Somehow seeing the photos online showing the print next to a penny is just not the same as seeing the actual print in physical space. I plan to place my order next week. 

Yeah!

Yeah, the pictures just don't do the print quality justice.  The level of incredibly fine detail it can achieve is just crazy!