i have a abnormal Bang noise while tilting the tank. the Noise occures only at the first few layers. (for example the Raft). on the video you can hear it on 00:20. sometimes the tilt makes not the full movement.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/023vBN6r1RBae4rBKuTNX4EjQ

can someone help me what this is? there is no resin oder trash between the gaps. 

Thank you!!

ich hoffe, dass mir jemand deutschprachiges hier helfen kann.
Habe den Drucker (SL1S) relativ neu und nutze die vorgegeben Druckeinstellungen.

Zum Drucken nutze ich Prusa Orange.

Leider kommt nur das dabei raus:

Hat jemand eine Idee, was hier nicht richtig läuft?

Danke und Gruß
Alex

I am doing my first prints with the Bluecast X-One resin on my Prusa SL1S. Unfortunately the supports seem to detach from the baselayer, see picture at the bottom.

Since I can't attach the print job a brief description of the settings:

• Material: BlueCast X-One @0.05 SL1S settings profile
• Print settings: 0.05 Normal @ SL1S
• Layer Height 0.05mm
• Exposure Time 7s
• Starting exposure time 25s

Thats all I changed in PrusaSlicer and all I found online for this resin.
of course the resin was heated to 40°C, shaken for 1min and waited for 5min after pouring it into the printer.
I also attached a screenshot of how I supported the print.

Do you have an idea why the print might have failed?
On this forum someone suggested to use for the exposure times 6/60 but for a different bluecast resin. Might this work?

I bought my Sl1s Resin printer 2 years ago and went through a dozen failed prints before I abandoned it and decided Resin printing wasn't for me. Fast forward I had a printing project I needed resin for, so I resolved to go through it one more time.  I found a post in here saying during calibration to apply downward pressure on the plate while tightening the screw.

Holy smokes it worked!  Retroactively I now know the tiny written instructions on the LED say to do this while calibrating.  I looked at the pictures but had never paid attention to the text.  RTFM!  I have been printing FDM for many years and considered myself a savy 3D print guy.  This was pretty embarassing.  Whoever posted that reminder, THANK YOU!  I was literally about to sell my printer and never look back.

Does anyone have some advice why and how to avoid this?

I have 6 prusa printers (5 FDM and the SL1S) and it is fair to say that the SL1S and I will never become friends... So frustrating.

I've done my fair share of prints with the SL1, most of them weren't perfect but I usually got about 80% of the objects printed (I print miniatures, about 6-8 of them per print).

Since the update my success rate has gone downhill dramatically, I'm only getting about 10% of the objects printed. I've calibrated the printer several times, and run the self-test and everything seems to be in order. I'm using the Prusament Resin Tough Anthracite Grey with default settings.

Is there any detailed guide to calibrate the printer, and any advice to tweak exposure times for the resin and such?

This is my last mostly failed print, the FEP is not properly cleaned because I'm going to replace it and start from scratch.

Thanks in advance!

I tried my own model, set it up in the latest Prusa Slicer and sent to print... mostly it's working very well but in each case, one part of the model is squashed (squashed is the best way I can describe it). 

I'm new to SLA printing so not sure if this is an issue that pops up, whether it's the model or the printer?

Any ideas?

I read, that you have to print for the CW1S update first two adittional parts with yout own printer

For the SL1S upgrade I read everyting is included. I have to be sure: Are realy ALL Parts included or is there by hidden assembly step xy also a self printed part necesarry?

Thanks in advanced 

Diego

Does anyone know what settings are different between the test print and the default settings?  I have not been able to print anything other than the test print since upgrading -- whether they stay stuck to the platform or not has become totally random.